Ascilab C8C Active Speaker Review

[CtheArgie]

@AsciLab .

Just got my C8Cs yesterday. My wife made fun of me that they came without a “manual”. She claims men don’t read or follow instructions anyway.

But I do.

What’s the best way to connect them? There are options unexplained on the back. Which should I choose? Same on both speakers?

Why is it one has the light on and the other blinking? The receiver is off.

How do I use the black speaker covers? Where’s the magnet.

Little details make a difference!

Haven’t been able to fully listen to the yet. March madness for my Duke graduate wife means she owns the system for now.

 

[Nopiano]

What’s the best way to connect them? There are options unexplained on the back. Which should I choose? Same on both speakers?

Analogue in if you are using a traditional preamp. They are the same on both because the left channel is the same as the right, electrically speaking, just as with passive speakers.

What’s your source(s) and preamp?

 

[Purité Audio]

C8C Starter guide here,

AsciLab Manual - Google Drive

drive.google.com

Keith

 

[kharan]

@AsciLab .

Just got my C8Cs yesterday. My wife made fun of me that they came without a “manual”. She claims men don’t read or follow instructions anyway.

But I do.

What’s the best way to connect them? There are options unexplained on the back. Which should I choose? Same on both speakers?

Why is it one has the light on and the other blinking? The receiver is off.

How do I use the black speaker covers? Where’s the magnet.

Little details make a difference!

Haven’t been able to fully listen to the yet. March madness for my Duke graduate wife means she owns the system for now.

They should have come with a QR code liking to the manual, in case you don't have it, here's the link.

AsciLab Manual - Google Drive

drive.google.com

Otherwise, the typical ways to connect them is:

Preamp out -> RCA interconnects -> RCA input

Preamp out -> XMR interconnects -> XLR input

Toslink/Coax digital out -> Toslink/coax input on the primary speaker -> Coax out to the secondary speaker.

 

[CtheArgie]

They should have come with a QR code liking to the manual, in case you don't have it, here's the link.

AsciLab Manual - Google Drive

drive.google.com

Otherwise, the typical ways to connect them is:

Preamp out -> RCA interconnects -> RCA input

Preamp out -> XMR interconnects -> XLR input

Toslink/Coax digital out -> Toslink/coax input on the primary speaker -> Coax out to the secondary speaker.

That I know!

But you have P1, P2 or whatever. Which one should I pick?

 

[kharan]

That I know!

But you have P1, P2 or whatever. Which one should I pick?

It's in the manual and written next to it.

You don't have to change anything, default is P2 and it's fine unless you're using them for competitive gaming or music production.

 

[Bland_username42069]

That I know!

But you have P1, P2 or whatever. Which one should I pick?

It’s in the manual…

 

[CtheArgie]

Why oh, why?

"If you use only one specific input, it is recommended to fix that input using Force input in HFD (Hypex Filter Design)."

Can you translate this to "English" spoken by mortals?

Why wasn't it included in the box?

 

[Scrutable]

@CtheArgie Follow @kharan 's very succinct guidance above. Just pick one. P1 is a must for TV or anything that requires low latency or a sync with another device. P2 for best fidelity but adds a delay and slightly lower volume.

The only HFD parameter that is somewhat obligatory is to set the input selection so you will have to install and run it. Everything basically works out of the box and you can tweak it later with HFD if you want.

The HFD software is fairly unintuitive even with the Hypex and AsciLab manuals open. Any problems I've had the speakers have been wrestling HFD and Hypex. I highly recommend screen shots before and after if you want to change anything. Many parameters are set as soon as you make the change but for others you must close the software before they are applied. So always close it after making any changes.

This bears repeating: @AsciLab has been extremely responsive and has really gone the extra mile. I am very happy with every aspect of the experience and can't recommend these speakers and AsciLab enough.

 

[kharan]

Why oh, why?

"If you use only one specific input, it is recommended to fix that input using Force input in HFD (Hypex Filter Design)."

Can you translate this to "English" spoken by mortals?

Why wasn't it included in the box?

If you only use one specific input and not the others, it's not necessary to have the device scan for signal on every input, so to avoid the device doing such a thing, using Force Input has the device locked into a single input to await signal from.

I assume because it's meant to be updated as Ascilab figures out the difficulties users may encounter, and that's impossible without having the device in user's hands. And also because it's the first run of a product, something about getting your ducks all in a row.

 

[CtheArgie]

@Scrutable

Thanks. I don't think I will use or try to use HFD based on your instructions. I'm not that familiar with those types of software and I'm afraid I will mess something up.

I'll start with the basics and then with time see what I challenge myself to try.

Thanks you ALL very much!

Still haven't figured out how to get the speaker covers on....

 

[AudioJester]

You need to remove the trim rings first and then the grilles will click in place with the magnets.

 

[Scrutable]

The grills are magnetic. I am pretty sure I got a very early production pair, but if yours are like mine it's pretty easy to attach the grills. You can simply orient them on the woofers. The magnets need to be at northeast, southeast, southwest, and northwest. I did not need to remove the trim rings but the magnets are fussy.

I sympathize - the software is not optimal, but it does work. But I do I recommend setting the one parameter - it's easy. If you don't, the speaker will forget the last input and blink red/green when it is not getting a signal.

The software installs easily, When you plug in the USB cable and double click the desktop software icon, it will take a few seconds and then will automatically fill in the items for the C8C.

From the HFD manual, this is a screenshot of the main HFD screen set to the correct value (different device though). Just click the circled field and you will get a dropdown menu. Select Analogue RCA so the screen looks like this. Voila! Done.

 

[amirm]

Updated Version 1.1 firmware measurements just posted: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ds/ascilab-c8c-v1-1-measurement-update.70219/

 

[Vinsen]

I can't seem to find any picture of this speaker WITH the grills on. Would anyone be so kind to give us an idea what grills they are how they look like?
Not everyone wants to look at the naked drivers all the time

 

[Sokel]

Not everyone wants to look at the naked drivers all the time

Joke aside, I'm curious as well!

 

[Coltr@ne]

Sorry, I don't have time to play. I'm enjoying Rubalcaba Plays Pino.

 

[markstein]

It means there is still a lucky left.

I am the lucky guy - just ordered the last pair of C8C from Audiophonics.

 

[Morla]

While I will have to wait until june to get it together with the bass extension. Now that I think of the money and opportunity costs.. 6 months wait for 12k €. At least it was cheaper than current price is

 

[Scrutable]

With the grills on: