I care about latency and I am sure those who have multi-zone audio feeds, in a home environment, worry about it too....low latency performance and driver support. RME, for instance, is popular in the pro world becuase of its low latency and hassle free drivers, not the qualities that we care about.
ID14 is bus powered too, mine is anyway, maybe the 48V is not accessible, not sure I remember what the limitation is when powered trough USB but I've never use the wall transformer (In fact I'd have trouble finding it). Not using the mixer neither unless I need to accomplish something very specificThe Minifuse is bus powered so doesn’t need a separate plug socket and is a lot smaller than the id14.
The monitor control is not multifunctional as on the id14. The software mixer/gain control is a lot simpler to use.
Having said all that it is down to personal preference. I am over 70 and need things to be ultra simple.
In theory an FFT can be generated for any sample of an appropriate length. The problem with more complicated samples is that it is not so obvious visually which graphs indicate good results, so getting a a comparable measurement requires further analysis.I heard when you said "add transients", what we're asking is, how that would actually work? (on top of the "with their attack and vanishing as happens under regular conditions). What would be regular conditional representation of this when using a multitone FFT method?
If you are using a condenser mic as I often do then the id14 needs 48 v power. But, as I said it’s different strokes etc.ID14 is bus powered too, mine is anyway, maybe the 48V is not accessible, not sure I remember what the limitation is when powered trough USB but I've never use the wall transformer (In fact I'd have trouble finding it). Not using the mixer neither unless I need to accomplish something very specific
Yes, it's another CS4272 job.Conclusions
The minifuse 2 goes after the market that Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 captures at same price point. Lot of the measurements look similar to that so I suspect the same DAC/ADC is used here.
Yes, I am referring to the Mk 1 version in my posts. I’m aware that the Mk 2 is differentAnother device I'm been looking forward to getting reviewed! Love the appearance of the white version, but performance is just ok beside its competitors. I'm seeing some discussion about the Audient iD series; if I'm not wrong the Mkii versions are usb powered unlike the original version. Hope this clears things up
No idea. I thought It should be closest to "like playing a flute" live.You think what would come closer?
I heard when you said "add transients", what we're asking is, how that would actually work? (on top of the "with their attack and vanishing as happens under regular conditions). What would be regular conditional representation of this when using a multitone FFT method?
Yes somehow you are right, now it's not as black and white, I also wish those audio interface had smaller output impedance for headphones, and it's actually also true for a lot of pro equipment like mixing consoles and such. But the studio headphones >250 ohms you refer to are also often not very efficient, may be the right impedance match but if the USB powered interface don't have enough power it's not ideal neither. the 1/8th rule is not Gospel, if the impedance curve of the headphone is very flat, even low, the impact will be minimal on considerably smaller ratio than that, it's just really a rule of thumb. Bottom line, it's very likely that your low impedance but close to resistive easy to drive M50X will perform better on low power audio interface than something like HD650.What is a problem is with many audio interfaces is that the output impedance of the headphone output can be too high. headphone outputs with high impedance and can seriously mess with your frequency response and distortion (thd+n) of headphones with low impedance. BA headpones IEM like the ones from Eytmotic are very sensitive to this.
You can see this on the Youtube video by Julian Krause which i highly recommend:
I also have a graph that is by Julian Krause.
View attachment 204867
Copyright Julain Krause. I hope he won't sue. me. But His Youtube videos are highly recommended. Check it out.
To give an example. The Audient ID14 has headphone output impedance of 22 Db. As you use a headphone with >250 ohm the problem goes away. Most studio headphones have a relatively high impedance >250 ohm. But this is not always the case.
I use several studio headphones. An example is the Audio Technica M50X. It has an impedance of 38 ohm.
Nwavguy that an excellent primer on this: http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/02/headphone-amp-impedance.html
The thing to remember is that most headphones work best when the output impedance is less than 1/8th the headphone impedance.
I prefer zero output impedance. But under two ohms should be okay. The Motu M2 has an headphone output impedance of 0,3 ohm. Excellent.
Manufacturers still use this horrible stuff? Why not just glue velvet to the knob, at least it would last longer. (I have a box of Roland/Sonar portable interfaces where not only the knob but the whole damn thing is covered with this crap. On the ones I still use I've removed the coating, but the rest are congealing together in storage.)Controls have rubberized paint on them
Re: Rubberized Paint.Manufacturers still use this horrible stuff?
All USB-C cables must be able to carry a minimum of 3 A current (at 20 V, 60 W) but can also carry high-power 5 A current (at 20 V, 100 W)Yes somehow you are right, now it's not as black and white, I also wish those audio interface had smaller output impedance for headphones, and it's actually also true for a lot of pro equipment like mixing consoles and such. But the studio headphones >250 ohms you refer to are also often not very efficient, may be the right impedance match but if the USB powered interface don't have enough power it's not ideal neither. the 1/8th rule is not Gospel, if the impedance curve of the headphone is very flat, even low, the impact will be minimal on considerably smaller ratio than that, it's just really a rule of thumb. Bottom line, it's very likely that your low impedance but close to resistive easy to drive M50X will perform better on low power audio interface than something like HD650.
This headphone amp measure 26 mW in 300 ohms. Not a lot of power. I don’t know of this one but even today not many audio interfaces use USB 3. In this particular case, the type A connector seams to suggest it could be USB 3, but regardless if the BUS power is the limiting factor or not, The vast majority, starting with those tested here of low cost USB audio interface have weak HP amps. Most will also want backward compatibility, and also the USB audio standard, the streaming part is specced for USB 2 connections.All USB-C cables must be able to carry a minimum of 3 A current (at 20 V, 60 W) but can also carry high-power 5 A current (at 20 V, 100 W)
With a modern PC this shouldn't be a problem. My PC has several native USB-C ports. USB2 ports should be able to provide 1.5 A.
this is plenty for most headphones. With the exception of electrostatics of course. But these things are expensive. A STAX SR-X9000 set you back
$6,200.00. Then you have to buy an electrostatic amplifier which costs more than the headphone itself. Audiophiles with lots of disposable income.
are crazy. LOL.
Commercial line out specification is to be able to drive 1 milliwatt to a 600 ohm load. For a sine wave, this means a voltage of 0.77 volts RMS (2.2 volts peak-to-peak) and a current of 1.3 milliamperes RMS (3.6 milliamperes peak-to-peak).
To be fair, the longevity of these rubberized coatings seems to be very much YMMV terrain, perhaps depending on whether they got the formulation of the batch right and environmental conditions (temperature, exposure to solvents...). My Dell Latitude E6520 palmrest (device bought used in ~2015) still isn't sticky, but I have seen several others that were, and the E6330's also is a bit.Manufacturers still use this horrible stuff? Why not just glue velvet to the knob, at least it would last longer. (I have a box of Roland/Sonar portable interfaces where not only the knob but the whole damn thing is covered with this crap. On the ones I still use I've removed the coating, but the rest are congealing together in storage.)
I had two Yamaha and one SonyES hardware with icky-sticky volume knobs.I have seen several others that were