The measurements look plausible. Along the slab, GFR (gas flow resistivity) is usually less than in the perpendicular direction.
WLG45 also suitable for 0,5 m basstraps.
WLG45 also suitable for 0,5 m basstraps.
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Are my bass traps reasonable or am i doing something wrong?
- Thread starter slacki
- Start date
I am not. That is why I said without data we are in the dark. There is no place for guessing in acoustics.
When in Doubt? Crawl about!
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Bass Nulls and Peaks are next to impossible to eliminate. So we have to learn how to live with them and use them to our advantage. Put the sub(s) where you sit. Measure all the locations you have to place the sub and pick the one with the biggest crest. Then put the sub there and the opposite should now be the best for your MLP. Low ceilings are a major nemesis. You may end up with a narrow head position window. Accept what the room gives you and make the best of it. Some rooms can never be completely fixed. Perfection is the enemy of Good.
Crawling for Bass - Subwoofer Placement Tips
Do the Subwoofer Crawl. It's the easiest way to find the proper placement location for your subwoofer to get the best performance and sound.
The Art of Subwoofer Placement
When it comes to bass, a few feet can make a world of difference. Ed Mullen explains how to find your room’s subwoofer sweet spot, for that incredible low end.
Bass Nulls and Peaks are next to impossible to eliminate. So we have to learn how to live with them and use them to our advantage. Put the sub(s) where you sit. Measure all the locations you have to place the sub and pick the one with the biggest crest. Then put the sub there and the opposite should now be the best for your MLP. Low ceilings are a major nemesis. You may end up with a narrow head position window. Accept what the room gives you and make the best of it. Some rooms can never be completely fixed. Perfection is the enemy of Good.
I have to disagree. All acoustical anomalies are treatable. However, a simple subwoofer re-location can reduce the effects and is always cheaper and less obtrusive then a treatment.
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- Thread Starter
- #25
my back now hurts, but i have some measurements, and its really "special" imo.
so reducing one or two "basstraps" from one corner, is quiet a bad idea.
this measurement is with the sub positioned left from the center without the "bass traps"
this is with the subwoofer at the rear left side just before the couch
so imo.. i could easily kick the "traps" out, seems like they only lowered the signal and maybe smoothened it a little bit but, i guess i could easily fix that with a second sub and audyssey, right?
so reducing one or two "basstraps" from one corner, is quiet a bad idea.
this measurement is with the sub positioned left from the center without the "bass traps"
this is with the subwoofer at the rear left side just before the couch
so imo.. i could easily kick the "traps" out, seems like they only lowered the signal and maybe smoothened it a little bit but, i guess i could easily fix that with a second sub and audyssey, right?
@slacki Thank you. It's the "default" window to share, so we've (at least some of us) have seen hundreds and hundreds of these, so it's much easier to see how deep a dip is or how high a peak is if it's in the same format as you are used to. If you have a much wider y-axis you are "hiding" the severity of the dips/peaks as they look smaller.
- Thread Starter
- #32
it was ok for me but i was able to locate the sub which was... a bit annoying. i changed now the crossover to 80hz (was before 100 iirc) and will later watch stargate and see how it behaves. can i fix those dips with a second sub? i will EQ that and see what i can measure.
I am wondering what a good alternative to the arendal sub2 would be and how true the specs are for e.g. the KEF KC62. The website states it can play down to 11hz, and has only about 25x25x25cm.
I am wondering what a good alternative to the arendal sub2 would be and how true the specs are for e.g. the KEF KC62. The website states it can play down to 11hz, and has only about 25x25x25cm.
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Geert
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From the pictures it looks like the corner bass traps are closed boxes, all I see is wood. Where's the opening of the boxes pointing to, the side showing the Isobond on the other picture?
Corner bass traps should be open to all sides facing the room.
Corner bass traps should be open to all sides facing the room.
- Thread Starter
- #34
they are mostly closed, yes. I built those when i had no idea and seems like i still have no idea as i was not aware (until now) that bass traps should be open on all sides facing the room 
i could move them so the open side faces the room and do a measure - do you think that makes a big difference?
i could move them so the open side faces the room and do a measure - do you think that makes a big difference?
Geert
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That will make a major difference for sure. Altough you still we be missing a lot of (possibly most of the) performance if only one side is open. Open corner traps normally work very well.
Which dips are you worried about specifically?
Bare floors are trouble too. Try tossing some throw rugs on the floor use blankets if you don’t have carpet. Just to get a feel for how much can be gained by reducing the floor bounce. Hard reflective surfaces can also cause problems. Glass is another bad reflective surface. Pull the curtains closed. Throw pillows finally have a use. Throw them in the corners.they are mostly closed, yes. I built those when i had no idea and seems like i still have no idea as i was not aware (until now) that bass traps should be open on all sides facing the room
i could move them so the open side faces the room and do a measure - do you think that makes a big difference?
- Thread Starter
- #38
@sigbergaudio at 70 and 95hz
@AdamG247 i had a carpet but had to remove it because of allergy. maybe something at the ceiling would be better for me, but then there is the problem with installation because i am not sure if i can put holes in the ceiling because of the floor heating above me.
@AdamG247 i had a carpet but had to remove it because of allergy. maybe something at the ceiling would be better for me, but then there is the problem with installation because i am not sure if i can put holes in the ceiling because of the floor heating above me.
The 70hz is too narrow to worry us much. You won't hear it in practice. If we are a little lucky, the one at 95hz is filled out by the speaker, so not actually present when you play everything together with a crossover of 80-90hz.
Is that the response of the room without the DIY bass-trap? If so be happy and enjoy the room.
The raise in 20Hz is never going to be excited with normal music. If you like organ or electronic music a bit if extra sub-bass is not a bad idea. The other dips and peaks are too narrow to affect the music either.
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