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Are all watts equal?

Carbon isn't metal, and physical hardness != physical toughness (IIRC both are almost always inversely related)
Metal hardness is generally measured by the depth or area of an impression made by a standard sized object at a standardized load. While hardness, equivalent to tensile strength, and toughness are more or less inversely related, alloy content is also a factor. Tool steels used expressly for impact are less brittle than other steels at the same hardness.
 
W is W/Ohms as mesured. Sometimes when you have multistage amplifiers it can be tuned to work on only first one for modest amounts of power (cuple W/8 Ohms as actually declared should be from DIN to ISO as mesuremment and verification standards widely in use, used for output specification from manufacturers). Sometimes manufacturers of corse liy and it's usually big time in some segments as lifestyle equipment like BT speakers or in case of Pro amplifiers. Didn't really read the thread nor intend to. Have a nice time.
 
A watt is a watt. Energy measure. Doesn't care if it transforms into heat or controlled/uncontrolled movement energy. But the result matters to us, and many measurable factors control the effectiveness of amplification Watts into accurate music presentation. And repeatability is science-engineering, magnificent singularities are chancy "magic".
Watt is a unit of measure for power, the time delivery of energy. Watt is not energy itself.
 
Yes, you should check that, for any class. The class of the amplifier is not related to gain.

Also, pro line level is higher than consumer line level so some pro amps (usually with XLR inputs) may not have enough gain/sensitivity when used with consumer equipment. But "line level" isn't usually calibrated (especially at home) so you have to check the specs of the amplifier and whatever is driving it, especially if the amplifier has XLR inputs.
I answered OP's question: "When buying an amplifier, all I have to look into is the wattage rating at low/high/whatever impedance, right? Or are there other factors which affect the delivery of the said watts?"
I also said: "I'm not saying this applies to all of the Class-D amps." I'm aware that the class is not inherently related to gain. I am sharing the useful information that it can be a common issue with this category of products.

You should check the specs of anything you buy, but my point is that these low-price class-D amps are often coming with the wrong gain structure for their most common intended use. I'm aware of these details, I read the specs, and so I chose not to buy these products.

Most of the customers who buy them won't be able to use their rated power, and frankly, they really shouldn't have to read the specs for it to work as expected like almost any other consumer amp does. Do you not see the problem with that? If it comes with only RCA inputs, the customer can reasonably assume it is calibrated properly for devices with typical RCA outputs. Why wouldn't it be! They're the type of low-price, simple consumer product that probably will not be used with a preamp, which typically would cost more than the amp itself. Nobody wants to buy a preamp, AVR, or headphone amp just to boost the input voltage to these products just to make them work. They might be suitable for use with preamps and AVRs, but let's be real, that's not how they are marketed and not what most people use them for.

Thankfully, many of the newer products in this category do have a better gain setting or a gain switch. This is much less of a problem than a few years ago. That still leaves a landscape of products that look almost identical to most customers yet work very differently.
 
I prefer new old stock original James-Watt-Watts. Nothing beats those good, old, steamy hot Watts - especially on a cold winter's day. Except mum's chicken soup, of course. :)

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
I prefer new old stock original James-Watt-Watts. Nothing beats those good, old, steamy hot Watts - especially on a cold winter's day. Except mum's chicken soup, of course. :)

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
Indeed. When men were men, and combustion was external! :cool:

1758653953475.jpeg
 
Metal hardness is generally measured by the depth or area of an impression made by a standard sized object at a standardized load. While hardness, equivalent to tensile strength, and toughness are more or less inversely related, alloy content is also a factor. Tool steels used expressly for impact are less brittle than other steels at the same hardness.
The best cutting tools and swords are at the next level they use both soft and hard steel. Hard on the edge so it stays sharp soft inside so it can take impacts. Whats really amazing is that sword makers have been doing this for 1000 years.
 
The watt, like the meter or yard, is a unit of measure. There is only one size of the yard; yards don't come in different sizes. Same for electrical watts. Some amplifiers of the same wattage may sound louder or softer depending upon how the amplifier and speaker interact. An amplifier with a higher output impedance will not be able to deliver all its power into a speaker because due to amp's internal impedance, some of that power will be dissipated internally in the amplifier itself, due to the voltage divider effect of the amp's and the speaker's impedances.
My yard is bigger than your yard, and my grass is greener too. :D :D :D
 
My yard (stick) is just 36 inches long. Can't host a barbecue on it.
220 yards in a furlong.
roughly 27.619 furlongs in a league.
:cool:
That's a nautical league, just to be really clear.
 
My first cat's fur was long.
It was a Persian.
Lost a few quid on the horses on occasion back in the day too.
Often by way less than a furlong tho unfortunately. Never did really like sailing anyway.
Ho hum.
 
My first cat's fur was long.
It was a Persian.
Lost a few quid on the horses on occasion back in the day too.
Often by way less than a furlong tho unfortunately. Never did really like sailing anyway.
Ho hum.
I started reading this thinking it was a haiku.
;)
 
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