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Any reason not to use an AVR for a music only setup?

delta76

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-Hypex Amp
-Topping DAC
-Stream through a computer
-Audiolense or Aucurate

All under $1500 and all near state of the art

This set up only lacks the ability to upgrade to a sub, which is possible but needs an additional DAC/amp or crossover/amp.

AVR is only bought when you need
1. Surround and the upmixing options that come with it.
2. Sound compression for loud sounds or the opposite increasing soft sounds during low volumes such as Audyssey's options.
3. Some type of room correction which is also offered with AVR's

If your listening to 2 channel music then I do not recommend an AVR, especially that this is going to be a secondary music only set up. It's like using a rally car on a race track.
what's about room correction?
I have an old AVR (x3400h) and a nVidia Shield. While my main use is movies and games, playing music is a breeze with casting from tidal or youtube
 

Trdat

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what's about room correction?
I have an old AVR (x3400h) and a nVidia Shield. While my main use is movies and games, playing music is a breeze with casting from tidal or youtube
Do you have subs?

And will you be using this setup with a PC(I think its the only way with this set up). PC>DAC>AMP? With this set up you can just stream music on your computer.

Audiolense and Acurate are software based room correction, much better than what an AVR can offer. Bit of a learning curve but it is the way to go if our trully keen on room correction.

So essentially, PC>Tidal>Room Correction>DAC>AMP all through PC.
 

Trell

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Do you have subs?

And will you be using this setup with a PC(I think its the only way with this set up). PC>DAC>AMP? With this set up you can just stream music on your computer.

Audiolense and Acurate are software based room correction, much better than what an AVR can offer. Bit of a learning curve but it is the way to go if our trully keen on room correction.

So essentially, PC>Tidal>Room Correction>DAC>AMP all through PC.

There OP did not write that he would use a PC, so a PC might not be something he want to use here. He also wrote that he would use a CD player, presumably using digital out, so the PC must then handle that as well.
 

Sokel

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-Hypex Amp
-Topping DAC
-Stream through a computer
-Audiolense or Aucurate

All under $1500 and all near state of the art
Agreed but where's the fail-safe of this rig?
If DAC/computer/app "forget" their settings (and they bloody do,we read it all the time) say goodbye to ears and speakers.
 

Trell

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Agreed but where's the fail-safe of this rig?
If DAC/computer/app "forget" their settings (and they bloody do,we read it all the time) say goodbye to ears and speakers.
He can buy passive attenuators to put between the DAC and the amplifier. Some of those have a switch to select between different attenuations.
 

Sokel

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He can buy passive attenuators to put between the DAC and the amplifier. Some of those have a switch to select between different attenuations.
As long as is of good quality (precision resistors are cheap but not dirt cheap and only need a few of them) and impedance is carefully taken care of and this is a good solution.
 

Witterings

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I was using an AVR for music, I found some bass heavy tracks to be very "boomy" and resonant, I tried it with a few pairs of speakers and it was the same.

I wonder if certainly my AVR has a sound signature designed for movie effects and giving that big low rumble for explosions etc. but spills over into the stereo sound as well.

I thought it may be because I was using the sub for stereo as well so starting using it in direct mode to cut out the sub and it made no difference.

Bought a separate amp and the problem went away.
 
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delta76

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Do you have subs?

And will you be using this setup with a PC(I think its the only way with this set up). PC>DAC>AMP? With this set up you can just stream music on your computer.

Audiolense and Acurate are software based room correction, much better than what an AVR can offer. Bit of a learning curve but it is the way to go if our trully keen on room correction.

So essentially, PC>Tidal>Room Correction>DAC>AMP all through PC.
Acourate is 350 EUR alone in EU
I'm not sure how you can reliably and easily stream things from your phone to your PC. I can quickly cast from my 2 phones, or sometimes, my PC, to my Shield, and it will also wake up my AVR and less than 10 seconds later I can start enjoying music. So does my wife.
also your "a bit of learning curve" could be too steep for others. yes if you want SOTA setup, that might be your thing, but most people can't and don't want to do that.
 

Trell

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As long as is of good quality (precision resistors are cheap but not dirt cheap and only need a few of them) and impedance is carefully taken care of and this is a good solution.
Sure.

RME posted a thread on their forum discussing this a few years ago.

 

bodhi

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You can add cheapish Hypex NC252MP power amp for driving the speakers if you want to make sure. I did and it sounds great!

Well, it sounded just as good before: the Hypex had absolutely no effect whatsoever.

But you can buy one.
 

Plcamp

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I have a Yamaha rxa3030 for a bunch of reasons, like it’s ability to drive 3 zones and play one source’s video while listening to another’s audio. Full iPad control app too. Built in Spotify. With a smart tv, or a dumb one plus Chromecast, any streaming needs are met.

Get one that has Ethernet, some used ones don’t.

My caution is speaker impedance…my AVR didn’t like 3.4 ohms at 120 hz, so I drive them with a separate power amp off the pre outs.
 

Steve Dallas

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My answer is no. There is no reason not to use a good AVR for a music only setup.

While my setup is not exactly the same as what the OP is proposing, I have a flexible system in my media room that allows me to do some imperfect comparisons--both with good DRC solutions. The main difference is I have an integrated amp driving the front pair in all scenarios, which allows me to run the AVR in preamp mode (turning off all internal amps) when desired to achieve better SINAD:


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How does each pathway sound? I can hear the difference between Audyssey and Dirac DRC. I can hear the addition of the subs when the AVR is in use. The end.

Given both options, what do I normally do when I want to plop down on the sofa and listen to music? Ninety-five percent of the time, I use Heos as my streamer and listen to the AVR pathway. Why? It sounds great, it manages dual subs, and it is non-fiddly. I hit a button on my universal remote that configures everything for stereo listening, I start an app on my phone or tablet, and I am listening to music. No laptop. No power cord. No long USB cable. No fan noise. No fuss.

It is true that my SINAD would be worse if I did not have an external amp, but I do not believe it would be audible considering how many DAC difference blind tests I have failed.
 

Witterings

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I can see how to add songs to favourites but is there a way to add folders to favourites, it take me ages to navigate to where my music's stored and there doesn't seem to be an option to do so.
 

hnash53

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AVRs are just fine for stereo use.
AVR DACs are just fine.
AVRs provide plenty of power... unless you want to blow your ears out.
AVRs simplify everything.
If you're spinning vinyl, be sure your AVR has a phono in... and it will be just fine. If not, you'll have to get a phono preamp... and people will suggest ones costing hundreds of dollars.
 

Witterings

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AVRs are just fine for stereo use.
AVR DACs are just fine.
AVRs provide plenty of power... unless you want to blow your ears out.
AVRs simplify everything.
If you're spinning vinyl, be sure your AVR has a phono in... and it will be just fine. If not, you'll have to get a phono preamp... and people will suggest ones costing hundreds of dollars.

They are for most things .... I could get rid of "boomy" on a couple of very bass heay tracks also trying different speakers, swapped to a dedicated amp and it disappeared.

Gave me the impression they're more deigned for a "rumbly" AV sound / effects ... I re-iterate though it's only with a very small percentage of tracks.
 

Koeitje

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They are for most things .... I could get rid of "boomy" on a couple of very bass heay tracks also trying different speakers, swapped to a dedicated amp and it disappeared.

Gave me the impression they're more deigned for a "rumbly" AV sound / effects ... I re-iterate though it's only with a very small percentage of tracks.
Sounds like a setting issue.
 
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