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Any reason not to order the new Buckeye 2nd Gen Purifi EIGENTAKT 2-ch amplifier?

In any double blind test I defy ANYONE to be able to tell the difference between a good working average cable and a high dollar cable based on sound alone.
What does "a good working average cable" and "a high dollar cable" mean in this context? Because while I think ridiculous prices for cables are ridiculous, I haven't actually heard any. So what can that opinion mean? To define my terms, I call $1000 ridiculous.

However, I have participated in double-blind cable comparisons and the difference was obvious: between dirt-cheap ($15) and mid-priced ($50) interconnect.

ETA: However, I need to add two things. One, the more expensive cable was clearly louder and brighter, which is not the same thing as better. And two, I dislike cable threads so I feel somewhat hypocritical responding thus!
 
What does "a good working average cable" and "a high dollar cable" mean in this context? Because while I think ridiculous prices for cables are ridiculous, I haven't actually heard any. So what can that opinion mean? To define my terms, I call $1000 ridiculous.
I would put the limit at $50.
However, I have participated in double-blind cable comparisons and the difference was obvious: between dirt-cheap ($15) and mid-priced ($50) interconnect.

ETA: However, I need to add two things. One, the more expensive cable was clearly louder and brighter, which is not the same thing as better. And two, I dislike cable threads so I feel somewhat hypocritical responding thus!
If one interconnect was clearly louder, there was something more than just the cable in play. Perhaps one of the cables had the shield connected at both ends, and the other only at one end, and the amp or source had ground loop issues, or one was balanced and the other not.
 
I would put the limit at $50.

If one interconnect was clearly louder, there was something more than just the cable in play. Perhaps one of the cables had the shield connected at both ends, and the other only at one end, and the amp or source had ground loop issues, or one was balanced and the other not.
Or there was no difference in the electrical signal.
 
Or one was defective in any number of ways, specifically including the possibility that the "defect" was one of original (and intended) manufacture.
 
Or one was defective in any number of ways, specifically including the possibility that the "defect" was one of original (and intended) manufacture.
There are not very many ways a cable can be defect in a way that affects loudness.
 
There are not very many ways a cable can be defect in a way that affects loudness.
However, since we were using our ears rather than SPL meters, it's quite possible that the increased clarity and/or brightness we perceived could have been (mis)taken for loudness.
 
I told him about error correction on the internet/lan and that the digital bits from the internet are not going realtime through his streamer into his speakers and that there is a buffer in his streamer that just collects zeros and ones and rebuilts the exact same data no matter how it connects to the internet.
I've had this exact conversation numerous times with numerous "audiophiles" - they just don't get it. Then they talk about "noise" and how digital noise can pollute the analogue stages of a DAC, not understanding the isolation inherent in ethernet interfaces.

Then when you say, just pull the cable and let the buffer play out to see if you can hear the difference, they can't grasp that the "noise" isn't stored in the buffer.....
 
However, since we were using our ears rather than SPL meters, it's quite possible that the increased clarity and/or brightness we perceived could have been (mis)taken for loudness.
Since using ears rather than SPL meters, it's quite possible that the increased clarity and/or brightness perceived didn't correspond to any physical difference in the sound.
 
Since using ears rather than SPL meters, it's quite possible that the increased clarity and/or brightness perceived didn't correspond to any physical difference in the sound.

Which makes one wonder how much is it really worth to have the latest 9040BA versus a simple NC502MP. It's quite possible you won't hear a difference that can reliably be identified in a blind test. Good amps by their very nature are transparent - better amps are not more transparent. Measurements are great but if you can't hear a difference it's academic.

Once you realize the power of the RME "Loudness" tool you start to understand changing amps in a system to achieve a different sound is pure folly. Pair any quality amp with the RME to instantly get right where you want without switching gear or breaking the bank. Load the ADI Remote, dial in the Loudness curve, sit back and relax.

If your nose is running, changing your shoes probably won't help.
If you don't appreciate the sound of your audio system replacing a decent amp is unlikely to help.
And a good amp in the 100-200W range is unlikely to sound different than a 700W amp in 99% of homes.
If I had the ADI-app earlier in my journey it would have saved me time and money. :D
 
Which makes one wonder how much is it really worth to have the latest 9040BA versus a simple NC502MP. It's quite possible you won't hear a difference that can reliably be identified in a blind test. :D
I would make that "more than likely" instead of "quite possible".
 
Which makes one wonder how much is it really worth to have the latest 9040BA versus a simple NC502MP. It's quite possible you won't hear a difference that can reliably be identified in a blind test. Good amps by their very nature are transparent - better amps are not more transparent. Measurements are great but if you can't hear a difference it's academic.

Once you realize the power of the RME "Loudness" tool you start to understand changing amps in a system to achieve a different sound is pure folly. Pair any quality amp with the RME to instantly get right where you want without switching gear or breaking the bank. Load the ADI Remote, dial in the Loudness curve, sit back and relax.

If your nose is running, changing your shoes probably won't help.
If you don't appreciate the sound of your audio system replacing a decent amp is unlikely to help.
And a good amp in the 100-200W range is unlikely to sound different than a 700W amp in 99% of homes.
If I had the ADI-app earlier in my journey it would have saved me time and money. :D
I submit the only difference likely to be heard is when you start pushing the amplifier hard enough that you are asking more of it current-wise than it can deliver. Very few people are going to exceed the limits or dare I say approach the limits of a 200 wpc amplifier under normal listening conditions. Its only when cranked up to lease breaking levels that the shortcomings of that lower powered amp will show their face. That said, more than enough power is just right. :)
 
I hope to end the cable discussion by saying that there is a lot of recycled "copper" on the market that is like 90 percent copper and the rest is iron, nickel, led you name it. Some of it ends up in the cheapest cables. The end.
 
I hope to end the cable discussion by saying that there is a lot of recycled "copper" on the market that is like 90 percent copper and the rest is iron, nickel, led you name it. Some of it ends up in the cheapest cables. The end.
And what audible effect would that have?
 
I hope to end the cable discussion by saying that there is a lot of recycled "copper" on the market that is like 90 percent copper and the rest is iron, nickel, led you name it. Some of it ends up in the cheapest cables. The end.
You can get a 100 foot roll of 12AWG 99.9% OFC for $44 how much cheaper we talking here?
 
You can get a 100 foot roll of 12AWG 99.9% OFC for $44 how much cheaper we talking here?
1. For speakers they usually recommend 99.99% copper, not 99.9%
2. Will you bet $1000 that this particular seller hiding behind "Amazon basic" is actually selling 99.9% copper? At the condition they take the wire to the lab and if it's not, you pay $1000 (hypothetically, I am not trying to actually start a betting game)?
Because this: PSA: Beware Aluminum Speaker Wire Masquerading as Copper -- eg. Amazon Basics
 
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