Amplifier Not Working.

[Trdat]

This has happened quit a few times with me, and its not like there was a heavy storm. The electricity kind of was fading in and out and my amps just carked it, but in my Hypex 252 the IEC AC power jack has a fuse in the socket, I changed it and it works fine. But my Hypex plate amp doesn't have that little fuse.

Is there something simple to change or do I have to take it to a technician?

Lastly why doesn't it have the fuse? Its saved me on a number of occasions.

 

[wwenze]

See the component with the heatshrink next to the AC input connector that looks like of like a resistor standing up. That's the fuse.

 

[Trdat]

See the component with the heatshrink next to the AC input connector that looks like of like a resistor standing up. That's the fuse.

Im a little confused, when you say AC input I am presuming you mean the black cord that goes into the power supply from the IEC input yes?

So that means your talking about the black thing standing up right next to the AC input where the blue and the brown connect to?

 

[somebodyelse]

Im a little confused, when you say AC input I am presuming you mean the black cord that goes into the power supply from the IEC input yes?

So that means your talking about the black thing standing up right next to the AC input where the blue and the brown connect to?

Immediately above the mains connector on the PCB is a vertical fuse wrapped in heatshrink and soldered to the PCB. The NC252MP datasheet says 250V AC, slow blow, 6.3A.

 

[Petrushka]

We had some brownouts a couple months ago, and a dozen things went nuts, including the toaster oven and the furnace thermostat. A little Fosi amp and its power brick were totally fried.

 

[JustJones]

According to the manual the fuse isn't user replaceable. I suppose if you can get a fuse and are handy with soldering.

 

[wwenze]

It's not user replaceable in the sense that the typical user does not own a soldering iron. Nor will a typical user know how to check for the cause of blown fuse first before blindly replacing it just to see it blow again.

If the root cause is a thunderstorm or power surge, the standard failmode is the MOV starts conducting which shorts Live to Neutral which blows the fuse. The MOV is often rendered unusable after this so to get back the same protection you need to replace that too.

Rectifier / diodes can also fail for many reasons not limited to power surges and overheat / overcurrent and will result in the new fuse blowing again if the root cause is not rectified.

 

[Trdat]

It's not user replaceable in the sense that the typical user does not own a soldering iron. Nor will a typical user know how to check for the cause of blown fuse first before blindly replacing it just to see it blow again.

If the root cause is a thunderstorm or power surge, the standard failmode is the MOV starts conducting which shorts Live to Neutral which blows the fuse. The MOV is often rendered unusable after this so to get back the same protection you need to replace that too.

Rectifier / diodes can also fail for many reasons not limited to power surges and overheat / overcurrent and will result in the new fuse blowing again if the root cause is not rectified.

Look it was a tiny fuse ill change it, maybe a a simple solder but yeh ill take this to my local technician. Thanks for the advice, its just a pity the plate amp couldn't have a simple fuse like the other MP modules IEC input.

 

[Trdat]

The other weird thing is I have surge protector the Furman 10Lxe doesn't that do anything?

 

[sergeauckland]

It does seem to me too be a major design flaw that the fuse isn't user replaceable. How much more would it have cost to provide a fuseholder?

Why do manufacturers do this sort of stupid thing? Like embedding a fusible link in a transformer, that requires the transformer to be changed if it blows. Try that with a 40 year old amplifier!

Manufacturers really should be held to account for deliberately making their products difficult to repair.

S.