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Amplifier for Wharfedale Linton, budget $ 1,300

@kaffe to be precise that's 115W 8 Ohms at 20 Hz and 130W both chenels driven at 1 KHz to which it's declarative.
Yep, sorry.
I am not sure if I am even comparing the Yamaha and Leak properly.
All in all I would very much like to know if the Leak can drive the Lintons without any hassle even when using Dirac and EQ.
 
Yep, sorry.
I am not sure if I am even comparing the Yamaha and Leak properly.
All in all I would very much like to know if the Leak can drive the Lintons without any hassle even when using Dirac and EQ.
MiniDSP has a gain compensation on every out. Once again how loud and to what distance you want them driven?
 
Yup. Definitely cheaper than the Apollon alternative, but I like the fact that Apollon offers 5 year warranty as an option (for +10%).
Also I very much prefer the looks of it to be honest.

If I go for a Hypex or Purifi amp I will probably prefer to buy a miniDSP with HDMI ARC so I can connect it to my tv. But I am pretty sure you can't get the Flex HT with balanced inputs. I guess you need the more expensive version (don't remember the name of it) for that.
I believe you can use a miniDSP Flex as a line input to either the Leak or Yamaha. In which case one sets the Flex' gain to 1.15 and you would run your TV and streamer through the Flex. Check this out with the folks at miniDSP.
 
MiniDSP has a gain compensation on every out. Once again how loud and to what distance you want them driven?
Judging from this sound source overview: http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/REAP.html I suppose I wouldn't want to listen to a SPL that is higher than 100 at any time whatsoever. Probably wouldn't come near it since my living room is 4 x 4 meters and I live in an apartment.

Listening distance is around 2.5 meter.
 
I believe you can use a miniDSP Flex as a line input to either the Leak or Yamaha. In which case one sets the Flex' gain to 1.15 and you would run your TV and streamer through the Flex. Check this out with the folks at miniDSP.
That's the point where old A-S700 begins to shine with 114 dB SNR unbalanced input line.
 
Judging from this sound source overview: http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/REAP.html I suppose I wouldn't want to listen to a SPL that is higher than 100 at any time whatsoever. Probably wouldn't come near it since my living room is 4 x 4 meters and I live in an apartment.

Listening distance is around 2.5 meter.
Well Linton's can go up to 100 dB SPL @1 m without breaking up or almost any compression. Usual white noise (-20 dB) reference calibration point is 86~88 dB stereo (+20 dB theoretical peek makes it 106~108 dB) to the calibration (listening) spot. I don't have wish to go beyond that but there are all kinds of people. So it's 87 + 7~8 dB for the distance so it's 4~5 W program and about 250 W short term max peek, realistically less.
 
Well Linton's can go up to 100 dB SPL @1 m without breaking up or almost any compression. Usual white noise (-20 dB) reference calibration point is 86~88 dB stereo (+20 dB theoretical peek makes it 106~108 dB) to the calibration (listening) spot. I don't have wish to go beyond that but there are all kinds of people. So it's 87 + 7~8 dB for the distance so it's 4~5 W program and about 250 W short term max peek, realistically less.
Thanks a bunch.
Is the 250 W for each channel or in total?
 
Yup. Definitely cheaper than the Apollon alternative, but I like the fact that Apollon offers 5 year warranty as an option (for +10%).
Also I very much prefer the looks of it to be honest.

If I go for a Hypex or Purifi amp I will probably prefer to buy a miniDSP with HDMI ARC so I can connect it to my tv. But I am pretty sure you can't get the Flex HT with balanced inputs. I guess you need the more expensive version (don't remember the name of it) for that.
You don't necessarily need HDMI to connect your TV to a Flex. Most TVs have an optical output. The analog balanced version of the Flex has two digital inputs. One can be used for your TV and the other for a streamer. That's the configuration I've been using and it's been great. You also get an analog IN if you ever want to connect a phono preamp or something.
 
Howdy

Having finally settled on a choice of speakers, I would appreciate some further advice on which amplifier to pick to go along with them.

I'm going for a pair of Linton speakers from Wharfedale, so the amplifier will need sufficient juice to run them at reasonable volumes, i.e. volumes that won't damage your hearing (sitting distance from the speakers are approximately 2-3 meters (~7-9 feet).

I don't need any analog inputs as I will only be streaming music.
My budget maximum is around $ 1,300 (streaming capabilities included).

So far I have considered a bunch of amplifiers, including i.a.:
Experience has shown me that I will be needing a volume knob - adjusting volume solely by remote and/or phone might need be enough for me. For instance, when I used an iPhone and/or WiiM remote to adjust the volume on a WiiM Amp, the volume would be either too loud or too low - I couldn't adjust the volume properly. Thus, I could go for a power amplifier, but I would need a volume knob on the preamp/DAC then.

To get streaming capabilities, I need to buy a streamer in addition to the amplifier (unless included, of course). I am thinking some sort of WiiM would do the job fine, the choice of a particular model depending on whether it will act as a DAC as well.

As seen, the amplifiers I have listed come at different prices.
The Leak has HDMI ARC which I would definitely be using. It is, however, not a dealbreaker for me.

Obviously I would like as much performance as possible within the budget range, while keeping an eye to the quality/longevity of the components.

Which amplifier/combination would you recommend considering these factors?
NAD C 3050 in the hunt?

 
Yep, sorry.
I am not sure if I am even comparing the Yamaha and Leak properly.
All in all I would very much like to know if the Leak can drive the Lintons without any hassle even when using Dirac and EQ.
Even an leak130 can handle the Lintons. Here you have a comparison of various amps with Lintons. It is a lossy video and you must use headphones to hear diferences:

Second part with Audiolab only amps:

The more power you serve to the Lintons, the fuller bass you get on your ears. I got the Audiolab 9000 which I really like for it dry and powerfull bass. It’s a dual mono configuration with better DAC and better powersupply.
 
You don't necessarily need HDMI to connect your TV to a Flex. Most TVs have an optical output. The analog balanced version of the Flex has two digital inputs. One can be used for your TV and the other for a streamer. That's the configuration I've been using and it's been great. You also get an analog IN if you ever want to connect a phono preamp or something.
You lose the hability to turn on the amp in this configuration.
When Flex HT receive CEC signal you can turn on the amp through 12v trigger. CEC and Hdmi eArc allows you to change volume and on/off the system with tv/appletv remote
 
With the budget given, I’d consider the Denon PMA-1700NE. 17 kilograms of good old »Made in Japan« quality :cool:
 
Even an leak130 can handle the Lintons. Here you have a comparison of various amps with Lintons. It is a lossy video and you must use headphones to hear diferences:

Second part with Audiolab only amps:

The more power you serve to the Lintons, the fuller bass you get on your ears. I got the Audiolab 9000 which I really like for it dry and powerfull bass. It’s a dual mono configuration with better DAC and better powersupply.

This is worthless and misleading.
Without precise level matching, the results can be manipulated to be anything that is desired. Not only that, but your comments bias the listeners, "priming" them to hear what you want them to hear. It's an old subjectivist trick called "expectation bias".

Descriptions such as "dry and powerful bass", and comments such as dual mono being better, with "better DAC and better power supply" having audible bearing on the sound are worthless unless they can be shown to be audible in a blind test.

So far, such differences have not been shown to be audible in a controlled blind test if designs are competent.

These are phrases from the Cult of Subjectivism, and they don't do anyone any good ... especially not the OP, who asked for reliable information.

Jim
 
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NAD C 3050 in the hunt?

It looks awesome, but the C 3050 LE is stupidly expensive in DK, sitting at approximately $ 2700.
 
You don't necessarily need HDMI to connect your TV to a Flex. Most TVs have an optical output. The analog balanced version of the Flex has two digital inputs. One can be used for your TV and the other for a streamer. That's the configuration I've been using and it's been great. You also get an analog IN if you ever want to connect a phono preamp or something.
That is true, but if I connect my tv I would definitely appreciate having the ability to control the receiver via my tv remote.
Besides this, some people seem to be having trouble connecting their LG TVs via SPFID. Noise, dropouts, etc.
 
It's not that subjectivity has no place in the human experience. It does. It is the final arbiter of personal choice, but that's all. Nothing more. :)

Jim

It (subjectivity) can perform a function before the final arbitration if you've come to trust and agree with the subjective opinions of some source. It's never going to map to your experience 100%, but that opinion can deliver a very good lead-in - depending on the source.

If fact I'd say that's a necessary function as we can almost never do that final arbitration ourselves until after the purchase ;)

The trick is to find the sources of subjectivity that you trust, someone who isn't trying to sell you something or justify a past purchase.
 
My budget maximum is around $ 1,300 (streaming capabilities included).

So far I have considered a bunch of amplifiers, including i.a.:
Experience has shown me that I will be needing a volume knob

I like this ^ group of amplifiers, but I'm wondering what went into this grouping - sounds like you need near-field listening as your main application, and those Wharfedale's are 6 ohm, 90db - if you don't really need 100wpc+, maybe consider the Iotavx SE3 (about 45wpc,) or stack the Iotavx PE3 with it for about 100wpc.

'subjective' quality often raises red flags with me - but I have yet to hear anything better myself for my near-field listening (paired with SMSL Su-1 dac and Triangle Borea Bro3)

1704212897403.png


 
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I like this ^ group of amplifiers, but I'm wondering what went into this grouping - sounds like you need near-field listening as your main application, and those Wharfedale's are 6 ohm, 90db - if you don't really need 100wpc+, maybe consider the Iotavx SE3 (about 45wpc,) or stack the Iotavx PE3 with it for about 100wpc.

'subjective' quality often raises red flags with me - but I have yet to hear anything better myself for my near-field listening (paired with SMSL Su-1 dac and Triangle Borea Bro3)

View attachment 339060
The manufacturer claims 90dB sensitivity but when Erin measured them he found they have:

Sensitivity is about 85dB @ 2.83v/1m.


5 dB less efficiency, almost 4 times more amp power is then needed.

Edit:
3 times amp power is more reasonable then.
 
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