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Amplifier and Multiple Sources

Mike00

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Edit - Original post is below. I see why I was confused now. So it looks like you still use a receiver but some of them are designed to connect to a power amp. So realistically since I’m not getting the KEF R3 immediately. I could upgrade my AVR now (Denon X-3700H seems popular) and then 4-5 months when I buy the speakers also buy an NC 252 power amp.

Part of me goes back and forth on maybe using the new songs amp. IT has decent power and people like it and it would remove a a lot of the pieces to it. I know the R3 are power heavy but with an independent sub maybe that would work ok also. Not really about saving money overall just trying to find a nice solution without spending for sake of spending.

Also the room is 12x12 so I suppose I could look at the LS50 Meta Since it’s a fairly small room.

So I’m a little bit new to this area of audio. My wife and I for years have used my definite home theater with Sonos and then Sonos for multi-room. Recently we added a Fluance RT 85 for record playing and some passive speakers KEF Q150 (new room) a test into our audio listening. I happened to have an old svs pb12 sitting in basement and an onkyo tx-sr607 receive that still works and overall we’ve been pleased as a start.

That being said sometime this year I’d likely upgrade to KEF R3. I also know I’ll need a new amp as well. So I’ve been reading about the BUckeye and VTV NC252 that seems to be recommended big time. Which sounds fine. I’m struggling a bit though in that I’ve always used integrated amplifiers. It’s simple enough with the single record player. BUT with passive speakers I’d like to put my sono connect into the line, especially with R3, so we can stream as well down the road. I’m sure there is some other piece of equipment I need but I’m just not seeing it in Google or jumping around here.

And then just to confirm it looks like the sub would connect via a rca/XLR cable? Always used RCA via the LFE out. Thanks and sorry for the simple questions - typically google and research has solved this but dropping the integrated amp has me a bit confused.
 
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DonH56

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Make sure whatever AVR you buy has analog outputs to drive the power amp. Lower-cost models frequently forgo the analog (preamp) outputs and you would not be able to add an external power amp.

In a small room you may find you do not need a power amplifier and can spend the money elsewhere. I suspect most people who buy one do not really need it.
 
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Mike00

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Make sure whatever AVR you buy has analog outputs to drive the power amp. Lower-cost models frequently forgo the analog (preamp) outputs and you would not be able to add an external power amp.

In a small room you may find you do not need a power amplifier and can spend the money elsewhere. I suspect most people who buy one do not really need it.

My AVR from 2010 did not have preamp which is why I was confused on the various electronic pieces.

And your second sentence is the rub, it ultimately has me debating. Honestly AMP/input wise all I need according to specs is the Sonos AMP which pushing 125 and has sub control for my one sub. The room is small at 12x12. It makes me wonder if I would get solid usage with that. I don’t need audiophile levels but I don’t want to invest in a quality speaker (R3 or LS50 Meta and not get value out of it.

But the Sonos AMP would simplify a lot of things if it was solid not below average. Or I could move away to a more sensitive set of speakers also.
 
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DonH56

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My AVR from 2010 did not have preamp which is why I was confused on the various electronic pieces.
Technically, it had a preamp, but did not bring it out to the back panel. Adding switching and connectors is expensive and I assume the assumption is that people buying a less-expensive AVR are unlikely to add an amplifier.

And your second sentence is the rub, it ultimately has me debating. Honestly AMP/input wise all I need according to specs is the Sonos AMP which pushing 125 and has sub control for my one sub. The room is small at 12x12. It makes me wonder if I would get solid usage with that. I don’t need audiophile levels but I don’t want to invest in a quality speaker (R3 or LS50 Meta and not get value out of it.

But the Sonos AMP would simplify a lot of things if it was solid not below average. Or I could move away to a more sensitive set of speakers also.
Plug your speaker's sensitivity, listening distance, and expected maximum loudness into an online calculator to see about how much power you might need. If you are not planning on getting new speakers right away, then I would get the lowest model AVR that has preamp outputs if you think you'll need them, and once you get the speakers see if it is enough by itself.

SPL calculator: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html -- there is a table comparing loudness of various things below the calculator. Note 80 dB is loud to me though I designed my system to handle 105 dB peaks per THX. I would probably shoot for around 100 dB minimum as I doubt I hit that level often if ever, but that provides headroom just in case. An increase of 3 dB in loudness is just noticeable but requires twice the power so don't go wild in your estimates.
 
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Mike00

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Technically, it had a preamp, but did not bring it out to the back panel. Adding switching and connectors is expensive and I assume the assumption is that people buying a less-expensive AVR are unlikely to add an amplifier.


Plug your speaker's sensitivity, listening distance, and expected maximum loudness into an online calculator to see about how much power you might need. If you are not planning on getting new speakers right away, then I would get the lowest model AVR that has preamp outputs if you think you'll need them, and once you get the speakers see if it is enough by itself.

SPL calculator: http://my home theater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html -- there is a table comparing loudness of various things below the calculator. Note 80 dB is loud to me though I designed my system to handle 105 dB peaks per THX. I would probably shoot for around 100 dB minimum as I doubt I hit that level often if ever, but that provides headroom just in case. An increase of 3 dB in loudness is just noticeable but requires twice the power so don't go wild in your estimates.

Interesting. I end up at 107.3 with the Sonos AMP on even something like the R3. Which means I could go with the amp integrate with the system the way I want and still be able to upgrade the KEF Q150 down the road.

And 80db is loud to me as well. I’m not the type that blasts music at reference level At home. Typicaly have it set at 65db.

Thanks @DonH56 for the useful info.
 
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