Ampapa x Douk Audio D1 is in Development and Need Your Advice!

[BlueGuerrilla]

The price difference between A5 and D1 is too big.
I'd like you to put only 12V TRIGER in A5 and give me an upgraded model.

 

[genkinaojii]

Hi, thanks for your comment on the D1. For the left and right level adjustment, our previous H7 had this feature, but because it used a potentiometer, there could be inconsistencies, and very few users reported taht they need this function, so we didn't consider adding it. Is this function important? D1 is adjusted by an encoder, so it's not difficult to implement.

I also think that left and right level adjustment is necessary.

The original H7 was the best!
The independent left and right volume controls were great!

 

[raif71]

Hopefully Douk has a similar amp like this but for headphone usage with xlr and rca at the back. Headphone in with 4 pin xlr and/or 4.4mm balanced and 6.35mm single side.

 

[EJ3]

I also think that left and right level adjustment is necessary.

The original H7 was the best!
The independent left and right volume controls were great!

@Totemis (and others) are correct: Because many peoples speakers are not in the position of being perfectly a mirror image of each other in referance to their location in the listening room (due to the vageries of home build, furniture locations, partener acceptance of said locations and 1000's & 1000's of other vageries of speaker location, in something that is to be used as a pre-amp or an integrated amp (pre-amp + amp), not having a balance control is an absolute no go. (despite of all the other wonderful features).
Perhaps in the future.

 

[Schlippwhip68]

Has anyone found a way of switching off the display on the D1?

I have on here but can’t seem to find a way of switching the screen off.

Arrived with the ‘fluffy sound’ of the Ti NE5532 op amps. So whipped those out and stuck in the not so fluffy opa828 and fed it from my Fosi Audio P4 with opa1656 in there and boom!
No it didn’t explode, it arrived at instrumental precision and clarity without a hint of fluff!

Very nice. Now, that screen is great but the option for a 10 second switch off would be good. Someone said look for an ‘A4’ setting to do this but I cannot find one myself.

 

[Schlippwhip68]

Very nice small amp. Well built. Looks good. Had it here a couple of hours now. I whipped out the NE5532 op amps and went through a variety and they all sound good.
I like a more precise sound so I stuck with the opa828 in the D1. The sound is accurate, distinct leading edges on the notes, excellent bass, great clarity, no fuzzy sounds at all.

I also experimented with the Fosi Audio P4 as a pre amp which has the opa1656 in place of the NE5532. It complimented the opa828 in the D1 perfectly adding a little more width and depth to the soundstage.

Bluetooth is very good, especially with the opa828 as it’s a super clean sounding op amp, virtually transparent adding no colour to the sound so Bluetooth is coming through very, very clear, even in AAC from the iPhone.

Great little amp.

 

[ICIETDIYEUR]

Hello.

We are all happy for you that you hear a difference by performing an 'Op-Amp Rolling' although Amir has shown that it does not add anything to the measurements...

... That said, it's important not to write anything since it's going to be read by the readers:
you cannot replace an OP-Amp NE5532 which is a 'double' Op-Amp with an OP-Amp OPA828 since it is a 'single' Op-Amp in its case.

By doing this, the device will not work, will create a loud 'noise' or at worst will be destroyed depending on the implementation of these circuits !

The TI Op-Amp which is a 'dual' version of the OP-Amp OPA828 is the OPA2828, which was important to clarify.

I won't go into the details of the circuit but the device must be 'studied' to work with the NE5532: you can't change an Op-Amp 'at the moment' just because you've read about it on the forums or whatever, it's important to know the circuits and their functions.

To do this correctly in order to, perhaps, improve your device to measurements, you need to have knowledge that you obviously don't have otherwise you wouldn't have written all this down insisting with two repetitive messages, but maybe you're an Op-Amp reseller?

In which case it's even worse since you're writing nonsense, without 'particular' knowledge and in contempt of users who will lose their warranty by opening their device and maybe destroy it as well!

That said, I don't know you, I have nothing against you, but I thought it was important to keep readers informed.

Have a nice day.

 

[alexk0il]

After a long hesitation about the idea of getting a class D Amplifier (didn't like the harsh sound of D class a few years ago) I decided to give it a go with Ampapa d1. Paid £130 with an Amazon deal.

Yes , it's a miracle, and I am a believer now. Matched with a good preamp it sounds great especially if one considers it's price. I prefer it's sound over few times more expensive Marantz PM6007 and PM7200 that I had a chance to compare at home.

The clarity, the power, the channel separation, the resolution, etc. are above the level of my £400-500 speakers.

It is not perfect though.
1. The gain seems to be limited by low sensitivity, can you please confirm if it is really 2V? I hope not, as most if integrated amps have the sensitivity in the 150mV to 750 mv range. To me D1 sounds quieter than other amps despite having more power.

2. The volume dial seems to be linear rather than using dB.

Adding 3dB to the volume is not increasing the volume by the factor of 2. So, a minor volume change of a few clicks on other amps now requires a lot of clicking to get to the same amount of volume change on d1. This is really annoying. Can you please confirm if this is how it is designed and if hopefully a FW fix can be applied done?

Otherwise, d1 provides an unmatched performance for it's price, great work, thanks.

 

[nirurin]

Stupid question probably, but I'm new and I'll never learn things otherwise -

I have two setups at my desk, and originally the plan was to get an amp with a built in dac and wire one setup to a digital input and the other would just go to the rca input (afaik that just bypasses the dac entirely) and then I would just switch inputs back and forth depending on what I wanted to play.

However I've been liking the setup on the D1, it seems to have everything I'd ever need and be high quality (and a great price). It pretty much came down to this, the Aiyima A20, and the new O-noorus D3pro.

The issue though is I would need to be able to utilise the 'balanced' TRS input, but I wouldn't have a balanced source. It would be either from a computer (usbC to 3.5mm dac) or just straight from a player outputting to 3.5mm aux. I believe the TRS are... 6.25mm jacks? Or are they the ~4mm ones? It's hard to tell. And I don't know if I can just convert 3.5mm to the right jack size and itll work, or if it just won't accept unbalanced input and not work at all.

 

[Schlippwhip68]

One thing I can see in advancing the now released D1 is implementing two TRS inputs. Like the Q1’s twin TRS outputs, the D1 with two TRS inputs would allow for a pre amp and a clean connection to the Q1 or two dacs etc. Great for comparing dacs, pre amps etc.

 

[EJ3]

Stupid question probably, but I'm new and I'll never learn things otherwise -

YOU ARE 100% CORRECT: You will only learn by asking and absorbing and integrating the knowledge that you already have (and putting aside things that you had been convinced were true but are not for the new ACTUAL truths that you will learn here:

Many are here to actually help (a high number of us have been misdirected in the past on these subjects).

 

[nirurin]

I now have the D1, and it seems to be doing a good job.

However I had a question about the 'pre-out' socket. I had wondered if it would work for headphones, but when I tried it I couldn't hear anything. I had thought there would be enough signal to hear at least something. Figured I'd ask the question to make sure that "pre-out" in this case is extremely weak, and it's not that the port is broken (?)

Edit- To clarify, these aren't high-drive audiophile headphones, they're just cheapo gaming ones I use when I need a headset.

 

[Dualbert]

However I had a question about the 'pre-out' socket. I had wondered if it would work for headphones, but when I tried it I couldn't hear anything.

Unfortunately this is to be expected since the socket is designated for a subwoofer to be connected.
You would need a suitable DAC or headphone amp for this purpose.

 

[HatefulEvil]

I’ve been using my unit since yesterday and noticed something annoying. When the volume is set to around 70 and I control the volume through the WiiM, at low listening levels the unit sometimes turns off and shows “No signal” on the screen.
Is this bug or a feature?

 

[Dualbert]

W

I’ve been using my unit since yesterday and noticed something annoying. When the volume is set to around 70 and I control the volume through the WiiM, at low listening levels the unit sometimes turns off and shows “No signal” on the screen.
Is this bug or a feature?

What WiiM is it? A Mini? How is it hooked up? And did you set it to 100% in theWiiM preferences?

 

[HatefulEvil]

W

What WiiM is it? A Mini? How is it hooked up? And did you set it to 100% in theWiiM preferences?

It’s a WiiM Ultra, and I didn’t set it to 100% because I want to control the volume with the WiiM. I’ve connected it using RCA cables and a trigger cable.

 

[Olivastro]

Hi,
It's so difficult to choose the best one!

I need to buy an integrated amplifier and I have a question for DoukAudio or anyone else who knows the D1 well.

For my system, I need two RCA inputs: one for the CD player and the other for the DAC mounted on the Raspberry Pi4.

I read that the D1 offers two inputs, but only one RCA.

Question: is there a way to connect an unbalanced input like the RCA to the TSR input?

Thanks!

 

[Dualbert]

Question: is there a way to connect an unbalanced input like the RCA to the TSR input?

It can be done. But you'll need an adapter from RCA to TS 6,35 mm (mono-version with one black ring).
The signal will be "quieter" than a balanced input. If your connection is not 20m long you won't have to deal with a lot of noise (but nevertheless keep the connection as short as possible).

You can also add an RCA switching device to your setup. But both ways aren't the most elegant solutions.

 

[Olivastro]

Hi
after reading many reviews and comparing the pros and cons, I purchased the D1.
I'm also testing it because I converted my subwoofer from passive to active with a new amplifier with LPF, so I'll need to find the best setup between the D1 and this subwoofer amplifier.

In this regard, since the D1 has an HPF and on the sub I have an LPF, do you know how to correctly cross-reference the HPF and LPF?

In the meantime, I'm sharing this link

Sound System Interconnection

RaneNote 110 explains the cause and prevention of ground loops and how to interface balanced and unbalanced gear with proper connections and wiring.

www.ranecommercial.com

explaining how balanced/unbalanced connections should be made.
Do you think it's correct?

 

[Bleib]

This should have a sensitivity setting for the UV. If used on a desktop the meters can barely be seen to move at all. It shows the output rather than the input.