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Ampapa D1 Stereo Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 4 1.2%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 50 14.9%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 196 58.3%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 86 25.6%

  • Total voters
    336
D1 vs Wiim?

I wouldn't dare compare devices with different prices, mainly because of the different markets. On the European market, for example, I bought the D1 for €147, while the Wiim Amp would have cost me €369! That's more than double the price, even when comparing it to the basic Wiim model! The Ultra model costs €599!!!

In Switzerland the difference is much smaller, around 75 euros. Even for double the price and considering the price range, I would go for the WiiM with my eyes closed. The "basic" WiiM is in a different league.

I have owned several cheap TPA-based amps in the past and, without denying their performance for the price, I always ended up moving to the next iteration looking for something different (Aiyima, Loxjie, Topping...). Since I bought the WiiM, the upgraditis has completely disappeared thanks to the rounded set of features for a 2.1 system and the frequent updates of both the firmware and the app, which have continuously helped me system sounding better. WiiM for the win and for the planet ;)
 
Of course this amp is very appealing if you have a limited budget. But if you can afford Wiim...
Hmm, I can afford the WiiM Amp.
I could afford a WiiM Ultra which is why I own it. Owning a WiiM Ultra, makes buying a WiiM amp with lesser functionality for $100 extra ridiculous. The D1 and the WiiM Amp are not aimed at the same market.

Your point has been made, if you want an internal power supply and streaming features the WiiM Amp is a great deal. You are happy with your choice and it is very nice.

For me, the D1 was a much better choice. The external power supply lets me replace it with a 38V to run cooler. I like meters. The 2 amps will sound near identical. This thread is about the D1.
 
Hmm, I can afford the WiiM Amp.
I could afford a WiiM Ultra which is why I own it. Owning a WiiM Ultra, makes buying a WiiM amp with lesser functionality for $100 extra ridiculous. The D1 and the WiiM Amp are not aimed at the same market.

Your point has been made, if you want an internal power supply and streaming features the WiiM Amp is a great deal. You are happy with your choice and it is very nice.

For me, the D1 was a much better choice. The external power supply lets me replace it with a 38V to run cooler. I like meters. The 2 amps will sound near identical. This thread is about the D1.
If you own a WiiM Ultra, I fully agree that the WiiM Amp makes no sense. I was just discussing the value proposition of the Ampapa in a general scenario.

In your case, Topping Mini 300 is a better option: cheaper, better measurement and no load dependency. Owning the Ultra, you don't need a screen, subwoofer out or Bluetooth. I just have the feeling that the rating for the D1 was based on the screen with the meters rather than on objective performance but we are obviously free to choose what we like more. I close the off-topic, sorry about it
 
I'm considering this unit but a couple of questions

1. Can the pre out be used as a stereo preout to a 2 channel power amp (if I wanted too) or just a sub?
2. Can the TRS and RCA inputs for 2 different sources e.g. a DAC coming into TRS and RCA for an analogue input such as a phono pre amp (and switch between them on the remote? )
 
..... I was just discussing the value proposition of the Ampapa in a general scenario.
..... based on the screen with the meters rather than on objective performance.
I appreciate your measured response, my dander was up, sorry. My pique was not about specific amp choices. It is with the concept that "value proposition" , or "better option" is objectively determined by measurement per $$. Previous skreed here.

Amir's measurements are objective, but value and best choice are always subjective. Being an ASR member does not eliminate bias. Team ASR values some criteria over others, but that does not make them right. Each review includes a preference poll, the folks who do not choose the most popular answer are not wrong.

Consider modern TPA3255 amps. Most all measure great and are either transparent or extremely close to it. We can see a poorly aligned PFFB filter on a graph, but that does not prove anyone can hear it in a living room.

We rightly scoff at audiophile power conditioners and cables, yet some really do block line noise. They are snake oil because any subtle benefits will not survive a blind test.

I have not seen blind tests comparing TPA3255 amps with perfect and imperfect PFFB implementation, or 94dB vs 103dB S/N, but I would be surprised if any but an extremely tiny percentage of listeners could hear a difference in a living room.

My point, its fine to choose an amp because its great measurements make you feel confident about its design even if you cannot hear it. For ASR Members like me that matters. Amir's measured endorsement improves my predictive perception determined experience.

You may think meters are silly. But that does not make people who prefer peeping at meters to peeping at minute THD differences wrong.
 
I'm considering this unit but a couple of questions

1. Can the pre out be used as a stereo preout to a 2 channel power amp (if I wanted too) or just a sub?
2. Can the TRS and RCA inputs for 2 different sources e.g. a DAC coming into TRS and RCA for an analogue input such as a phono pre amp (and switch between them on the remote? )
Yes to both. the pre-out is stereo and full range and the inputs are selected with the remote or multi-function knob
 
Douk ignored our advice for the LDAC implementation: that alone is a complete failure. What's the point of opening a thread from the manufacturer if it's not listening at all?
This seems like a very harsh comment considering all the features implemented in this device.
I also prefer LDAC to any other codec, but it's more out of a psychological belief that it's better than anything else, not because I actually hear it better.
In general, when I played LDAC at 990kbps, there were more problems than benefits, because even moving away from it just a few dozen centimeters is enough to start noticing playback blockages.
 
I've tried BT with it and it seems to play quite a bit with less volume in doing so. Watched a video a couple of weeks ago which states that it does max 2x60w when using BT.
This might be a bigger problem than lack of LDAC. Well, I generally don't use BT, only for sometimes having something in the background
 
But you're accepting their word? If a company was being intentionally deceptive...

Not saying I believe it happens, but a secondary sanity check with a unit sent from trusted members would help stop the speculation.
The very concept of a "gold standard" makes no logical sense.
It assumes that a product is literally engineered with better performance but is aesthetically identical to the "standard" model. The next question would be, if they're so good at creating a superior-performing standard, why not just market that?
The only sensible thing a company would do is measure the standard before shipping it, just to make sure it meets specifications and has no manufacturing defects, and they'd be very stupid not to.
 
1000054653.jpg


lol, 2 op amps which cost more than the amp itself
 
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Gotta wonder why they cost so much in the first place. Doesn't seem to use a lot of material
Perhaps you did not visit the product page. Meticulous 8-layer construction and superior protection against airborne interference ain't cheap. You don't know you need it until its too late. Performance Graphs, Burson's got'm.
2026-02-28_12h07_04.png

Detail or Texture? Classic and Vivid V7's go to 10. Only Burson's humility prevents an "11" rating. ;)
 
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Colo(u)r & Texture? Ideal for those listeners with certain forma of synaesthesia.
If the amp doesn't have different op amps for different music styles then I'm not interested!
 
Perhaps you did not visit the product page. Meticulous 8-layer construction and superior protection against airborne interference ain't cheap. You don't know you need it until its too late. Performance Graphs, Burson's got'm. View attachment 514481
Detail or Texture? Classic and Vivid V7's go to 10. Only Burson's humility prevents an "11" rating. ;)
Wow... zero to ten on a scale of BS. :facepalm:


JSmith
 
People hi !

@amirm: I modified the part which indicated SMSL A300 by AMPAPA D1 for the 8 Ohms trace ;) ->

7 - LOAD DEPENDANCY.png


I also found another review of this amplifier on Youtube which has some pretty interesting comment sections from the author ->


I noted in particular the notion of operating voltage with regard to the heating produced by the SAGAMI's inductors when the amplifier is at rest:
would it not have been wise to use a 36V/10A power supply rather than 48V/5A in this regard ?

NB: The author also seems to mention the 'sizing' of the latter, which also seems to me to be an interesting 'point'...

Discussions are open as well as reflection for designers :cool:

Load dependancy mesurements in the Youtube's video ->

7.1 - LOAD DEPENDANCY @ 4 Ohms.jpg


7.2 - LOAD DEPENDANCY @ 8 Ohms.jpg


Power VS distortion (Blue line for 8 Ohms and red line for 4 Ohms) ->

POWER OUTPUT.jpg


My thoughts are that it would be interesting, in my opinion, to compare measurements with the original 48V/5A power supply with another series of measurements with a 36V/10A power supply, both for the power vs distortion and the heating felt with the device when it is in IDLE ->

Indeed, the SAGAMI inductances reach 155°F, or 68.3°C while the amplifier is in IDLE :(

With a 48V PSU, we obtain 9W and with 36V we obtain 6.5W: something to think about because the temperature of the inductors supplied with 36V drops to 122°F, or 50°C, which is much better :D

Also, we should be able to attenuate the FFT peaks in the low frequencies (at least) by adding capacitors as recommended by TI in its datasheet ->

TEXAS INSTRUMENTS User's Guide for PCB TPA3255EVM.jpg


See you later :)
 
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Thank you for your early feedback :)

In fact I think that a 32V power supply would be even better (surely):

I let Amirm determine the intensity necessary to correctly power this amplifier so that it reaches its maximum power measured at 4 and 8 Ohms using the appropriate calculation formulas known by giving us the demonstration here ;)


I think that in the future, it would be very useful to measure the intensity actually consumed using a current clamp and to maintain a sufficiently substantial 'room for maneuver' in terms of intensity (Amps) so that the power supply can deliver maximum power without heating up :cool:
 
+1

Yes, and there are audiophiles who think less than others as well :rolleyes:
 
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