Ampapa D1 Stereo Amplifier Review

[john61ct]

The way you have phrased this so meticulously as your opinion, there really is no way to argue with it.

Not as if you even imply that you think others should take your statement as objective, much less advice

 

[CptKaos]

The way you have phrased this so meticulously as your opinion, there really is no way to argue with it.

Not as if you even imply that you think others should take your statement as objective, much less advice

pretty much how all audio choices boil down

 

[xlinknz]

Correct, it's a block of anodised aluminium, TPA3255 one side and chassis the other. It's the exact solution Naim use on their amplifiers, only they use thermal compound both sides of the spreader and their chassis is 3mm thick so it works very well... This budget implementation is suboptimal but does now work after correctly applying compound. FYI It's not actually attached to the ribbon cable, just how the photo angle makes it appear. The ribbon cable is attached to the PCB and runs from there to the front panel, both ends of the ribbon cable were hot glued in place which made removal slightly more fiddly.

Yes, I started using a 36v 5A supply in place of the original 48v 5A. Quality doesn't seem very important, mine is a generic cheapie from Amazon but the sound quality is unaffected and there is no detectable added noise or hum etc.

I've not been inside an A80 but just looked on Google images and I agree with you, same problem but that means same solution, just use a 36v supply. The A80 also appears to use many electrolytic coupling caps, whether they affect the sound is endlessly debatable however it has been accepted good practice in higher quality consumer grade gear not to use them in the signal path since the early 80s making the A80 very unappealing to me.

I do intend to push on increasing the D1's long term reliability @48v. This will involve replacing the capacitor near the largest heat source (inductors) with something better, for example the UBY1J182MHL is rated up to 135c, has double the ripple rating and half the ESR of the factory installed Rubycon, it's essentially heaven sent for a Class D PVDD. I would also like to install a fan such as this:

View attachment 539085View attachment 539086

Installation would be simple as there is sufficient room, a local 5v rail and there is already ventilation with the Ampapa cutout, my only concern is noise... If I can hear the fan running at low volumes that would be a problem. Will have to experiment with resistor values to reach an equilibrium between sufficient heat extraction and noise level.

So the D1 does not use electrolytic coupling caps but the A80 does?. I would have thought they'd be the same but maybe that's a cost reduction to compensate for the A80's having a DAC?

 

[Oeilvert]

So the D1 does not use electrolytic coupling caps but the A80 does?. I would have thought they'd be the same but maybe that's a cost reduction to compensate for the A80's having a DAC?

Correct. They are entirely SMD in the D1, at a glance they look ceramic (shock, horror) but maybe a type of film? I'm doubtful as they're all very small.

Electrolytics as far as I can tell:

2200uf Local reservoir for the TPA3255 (PVDD)
2 x 470uf 12v Stabilisation for TPA3255 (VDD)
4 x 220uf x 4 Rail filtering for NE5532
2 x 100uf Local supply decoupling for NJW1194
1 x 100uf Local supply decoupling for CS4344

 

[Panelhead]

Small SM caps are most likely X7 ceramic. You are better off with decent quality electrolytics for signal coupling.

 

[Oeilvert]

Small SM caps are most likely X7 ceramic. You are better off with decent quality electrolytics for signal coupling.

Oh for sure. That said, there may not be any, or at least as many as previously feared.... Been working on reverse engineering the D1 a little today, got most of the power supply worked out now, quite a nice design actually. Opamps and NJW1194 are fed from proper split rail supply so whole thing is DC coupled unlike the A80 which is why that needs endless coupling caps.

 

[Oeilvert]

Oh for sure. That said, there may not be any, or at least as many as previously feared.... Been working on reverse engineering the D1 a little today, got most of the power supply worked out now, quite a nice design actually. Opamps and NJW1194 are fed from proper split rail supply so whole thing is DC coupled unlike the A80 which is why that needs endless coupling caps.

Just to update on this, tracing the signal path reveals that every location you could expect to find a coupling capacitor there is a 0R resistor instead.

One example:

Also completely replaced the thermal compound on mine with Arctic MX-7, the TPA3255 now actually runs cool so I'm happy with that.

For anyone interested, the power supply looks like this:

 

[whazzup]

I'm confused, so for the chinese amps the trend now is to say that there's PFFB when there isn't? Though its saving grace is that at least there's treble control to compensate and knock it down a little?

 

[Oeilvert]

Whelp, I got bored and had a new soldering iron arrive I was eager to take for a test drive so had a tinker with the Ampapa...

Replaced the CS4344 & NJW1194 power rail decoupling caps with Panasonic FC, the generic SMD opamp bulk supply rail decoupling and VDD caps with Panasonic FR and the large PVDD cap with a Chemi-Con KY which is far better suited for the job and still well within TI's 1000-2200uf requirement.

Fear not, the purpose wasn't searching for audible improvements Just long term reliability, getting rid of generic Chinese caps and one that was borderline unfit for purpose, well, if Gemini is to be believed anyway...

Somewhat interestingly, the Chemi-Con PVDD cap exhibits far less self heating compared to the Rubycon it replaced which would suggest Gemini was onto something. As an aside I can highly recommend the FNIRSI HS-02A soldering iron, it was a pleasure to use.

 

[EJ3]

Wahoo! I already had a 3e Audio A5 which scratches my best possible specs itch, but I also like bouncing meters & the ability to adjust tone so I got one of these to scratch another (we are multitudes). It sounds great to me, no different than the 3e Audio, but no blind testing.

Potential buyers should know:

1. You cannot turn the display off, you can only change what it shows and dim it. So, no timed display off option like many amps.
2. The original release has no signal-sensing power down, which matters as the display does not turn off. It does have a 12v trigger (see below) Bipolarbear writes that a newer D1 release (V1-1 dated 2025/11/12) has a defeatable 5 second signal sensing turn on/shut off that works without a long delay.
3. The display, looks great but does not have a totally black background, its LCD not OLED. There are six meter styles, a spectrum bar thing, as well as a function (input volume etc.) option. Everything is accessible from the remote
4. The rear 12v trigger takes a 3.5mm stereo plug. This is not directly compatible with my WiiM Ultra which uses a 3.5mm mono plug. I tried stereo to stereo and mono to mono cables that did not work. What did work was a 3.5mm stereo cable with a 3.5mm mono to stereo adapter like this at the Wiim Ultra end. The trigger works fine and instantly.
5. For me the tone controls (+- 10dB) are useful, and can be easily zeroed out as their setting shows on the display.
6. As Amir says, its a very handsome unit in person. The chassis is aluminum, it all looks and feels premium for the price point.
7. The D1 and the Aiyima A80 Amp/DAC share the same Original Design Manufacturer. Not identical, the D1 has no DAC, the A80 no LPF or internal illumination, but size, features, and measured performance are similar.

I think that "for the money" you are expecting a heck of a lot.
It is an "over-achiever" at it's price point already.
Yes, this features would be nice. But, I think that it's unrealistic to think that they can have them at this price point.

 

[bloodshoteyed]

damn, this thing runs HOT, even while only turned on and on stand by

 

[CptKaos]

damn, this thing runs HOT, even while only turned on and on stand by

how hot is hot, havent noticed it as an issue with mine

 

[Talisman]

Mine also gets hot to the touch after a few minutes, even at moderate listening levels. I'm not having any problems with it right now, but if it breaks, I'll know which brand not to buy in the future.
I appreciate small, high-performance devices, but not if they compromise reliability.
I have a small 3116 with a 24V power supply that's been on 24/7 for 7 years.

 

[CptKaos]

well its a high performance 3255 amp chip device in a small case which serves as the heat sink, it will produce some thermal by product but hot to the touch depends on how delicate your touch is and isnt a scientific measurement, if its not going into " thermal protection mode " its not hot

 

[Oeilvert]

1.They don't apply thermal compound between the heat spreader and chassis causing poor heat dissipation.
2. The stock PVDD capacitor is borderline unfit for purpose and suffers from self heating as it's being stressed TF out.
3. With a 48v supply the output inductors idle at around 70°C (158°F)

Combine all these with the lack of top ventilation and it will run very hot. If you want to decrease the temperature without dismantling and/or modifying then the best thing to do is use a lower voltage supply, simply substituting the 48v for 36v reduces internal temperature by 20°C.

 

[whazzup]

3. With a 48v supply the output inductors idle at around 70°C (158°F)

Woah... people might wave that off as 'in line with the amp designer's intentions' but man that sounds toasty.... especially for surrounding components...
Thanks, will take note if I ever get one with a 48V adapter.

I don't have the D1 (was initially thinking of getting it, looks so pretty ), but like you mentioned, with the topping mini 300 and its 38V power brick I do measure around 50-60°C for its various components when housed in the enclosure. Bought a simple usb powered fan to drive some airflow as I have it on daily for long hours, mainly for my own ease of mind. Drops about 10°C (heatsink temp).

Topping Mini 300 Amplifier Review

To close the loop (for no one) for my earlier post about the temperature of components in the mini 300: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/topping-mini-300-amplifier-review.68581/page-28#post-2637934 Texas Instruments does rate the TPA3255 up to 70°C operating range. I'm...

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[gasolin75]

is it a AIYIMA A80 Stereo Amplifier ?

 

[john61ct]

wut. No

Google Search

 

[CptKaos]

Woah... people might wave that off as 'in line with the amp designer's intentions' but man that sounds toasty.... especially for surrounding components...
Thanks, will take note if I ever get one with a 48V adapter.

I don't have the D1 (was initially thinking of getting it, looks so pretty ), but like you mentioned, with the topping mini 300 and its 38V power brick I do measure around 50-60°C for its various components when housed in the enclosure. Bought a simple usb powered fan to drive some airflow as I have it on daily for long hours, mainly for my own ease of mind. Drops about 10°C (heatsink temp).

Topping Mini 300 Amplifier Review

To close the loop (for no one) for my earlier post about the temperature of components in the mini 300: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/topping-mini-300-amplifier-review.68581/page-28#post-2637934 Texas Instruments does rate the TPA3255 up to 70°C operating range. I'm...

www.audiosciencereview.com

View attachment 546189

built similar coolers for my A7 Mono's buy cutting up a $18 mini component rack and mounting spare PC case fans and USB power controllers

 

[GGroch]

is it a AIYIMA A80 Stereo Amplifier ?

Not exactly the same (as john61ct's post illustrates) but very similar.

The same ODM company designed/built both as discussed here. So, sound/reliability should be near identical, choose based on slight feature differences.