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Ampapa D1 Stereo Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 4 1.1%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 54 15.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 203 56.5%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 98 27.3%

  • Total voters
    359
I've made a drastic decision: to replace the DAC on my Raspberry Pi 4 with one that has balanced outputs!
It costs less and might even sound a bit better!
It's supposed to arrive on Tuesday... I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Does this amp only have high-pass, and the pre-outs remain full range? Or does the high-pass result in a corresponding loss pass in the preouts?

Also - does anyone know the slope of the high-pass filter?

EDIT: Just found the manual online. The pre-outs remain full range. The high-pass is 12db/octave
 
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OK. My curiosity has got the better of me.

I have a system in the living room which sounds perfectly good to me, powered by a Cambridge Audio AXA35. I have bought a D1 from one one of the Douk outlets on eBay for £128 with a 20% off coupon. The D1 measures a lot better and is much more powerful than the AXA35. I wonder if I'll be able to hear any difference?
 
I've had the D1 along with the Ampapa Q1 DAC for about 2 months now. I'm using it as a desktop system in my office and I'm very happy with it. Having the sub out and adjustable high pass filter are a must, especially if powering desktop or bookshelf speakers. The 12v trigger makes it nice to be able to turn on both units and my sub with just the push of one button. Nit-picking but, I wish the removable glass tops on them was able to lock in place. Not really a big deal though because I'm not picking them up or moving the devices around. I'd rather have it the way it is than not have the glass/RGB lighting at all. Super happy!
 
I've had the D1 along with the Ampapa Q1 DAC for about 2 months now. I'm using it as a desktop system in my office and I'm very happy with it. Having the sub out and adjustable high pass filter are a must, especially if powering desktop or bookshelf speakers. The 12v trigger makes it nice to be able to turn on both units and my sub with just the push of one button. Nit-picking but, I wish the removable glass tops on them was able to lock in place. Not really a big deal though because I'm not picking them up or moving the devices around. I'd rather have it the way it is than not have the glass/RGB lighting at all. Super happy!
I also have a Ampapa D1+Q1 nearfield system and am very happy with the features and performance with Carmody S2000MT speakers and Speedwoofer 10sMkII sub, just added the Douk Mini System Rack
office.JPG
 
Ampapa D1/Q1, I use a Lenovo Tablet to stream, mostly YouTube Music. Playing through Polk ES15's and a Polk HTS10 sub.

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I also have a Ampapa D1+Q1 nearfield system and am very happy with the features and performance with Carmody S2000MT speakers and Speedwoofer 10sMkII sub, just added the Douk Mini System Rack
View attachment 530446
Nice set-up! I was thinking about getting that rack, haven't decided. I was thinking about making something.
 
Did anyone experience/test the below behavior (extracted from user manual) ? I'm asking because at [low to normal] mid field listening levels, needles are barely moving. Large "deflection" just doesn't happen.

Capture d’écran 2026-05-09 193042.jpg
 
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Did anyone experience/test the below behavior (extracted from user manual) ? I'm asking because at normal or low mid field listening levels, needles are barely moving. Large "deflection" just doesn't happen.

View attachment 531184
mine show plenty of deflection at my normal near field listening level of about 70db
 
mine show plenty of deflection at my normal near field listening level of about 70db
Thanks, on my side the needles of the default stereo vu meter are oscillating between -30 (minimum) and -25 at best, but I still have to asses how many dB is my casual listening level. For sure vu meter is boring at that casual level, I would have expected the "high gain" auto setting to be much more dynamic than this.
 
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Why wouldn't you just use the power supply the D1 comes with (48V/5A (GaN) )? You can also upgrade to a 48v 10A for more power.
 
Why wouldn't you just use the power supply the D1 comes with (48V/5A (GaN) )? You can also upgrade to a 48v 10A for more power.
D1 runs a fair bit cooler with a 36v 6a, as opposed to 48v 5a, and you only loose 24w. I wouldn't go through the trouble of adapting the Meanwell though. The 36v 6a Nobsound supply is half the price and comes with the right connection out of the box.
 
I've ran it for extended periods, the D1 doesn't run too warm with the 48v 5a to be concerned. Don't stack anything on top of it and it's fine. I don't think it would be worth the $40 to buy a less powerful but cooler running power supply when the D1 only costs $180. Vent the glass when it's powered on if you want more piece of mind.
 
I've ran it for extended periods, the D1 doesn't run too warm with the 48v 5a to be concerned. Don't stack anything on top of it and it's fine. I don't think it would be worth the $40 to buy a less powerful but cooler running power supply when the D1 only costs $180. Vent the glass when it's powered on if you want more piece of mind.
Some people need more power, some need more cooling. I agree it's not worth the effort to change supplies just to run a little cooler, but mine is just sitting in the open at my desk. If someone had to squeeze it into a tight spot where cooling would matter more then it would make sense.
 
Thanks. I got the Meanwell for half the price of the Nobsound, and the socket adaptation was a soldering pleasure rather than a trouble (but that's just me). I'll try to get accurate temp measurements 48 vs 36v.
EDIT : the Meanwell is 1.5x the volume of the amp or of he 48v GAN supply, ridiculously big and heavy o_O
 
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