Ampapa D1 Stereo Amplifier Review

[ICIETDIYEUR]

Hello lunaria

You might be absolutely right if we neglect that there are completely transparent EQs and PEQs available these days that allow you to do 'whatever you want'.

The important thing is that the device studied brings to the measurements what is described in these commercial characteristics, that it is well designed, reliable but above all corresponds to the user's expectations.

Afterwards everyone does as they want and thinks as they want

PS: I very sincerely doubt that Amirm lacks discernment because he masters and knows very well what he is doing

 

[ICIETDIYEUR]

People hi

To the attention of DOUK Audio.

Would it be possible for you to:

1> Propose a new FIRMWARE that allows the display to go into 'standby' mode rather than remaining powered by displaying 'No Signal' but also the LEDs inside the case

2> Propose a new plug-in module that we could buy alone and which would be equipped with a QUALCOMM QCC3084 (BT 5.4) chip with the LDAC codec and also a better ability to detect and filter devices, this would allow us to replace the original module with the QUALCOMM 3040 (BT 5.2) chip which is too 'limited'

To illustrate my points, here is a photo that JSmith presented in a previous message in this review ->

I thank you in advance for your response.

Everyone have a good day

 

[Pilot Pirx]

Yup, because it's not an OLED as its marketed. Quite common that the marketing straight up lies about this from many of these companies.

Thanks Amir, it's an OK buy at for the 169 USD I paid for it

Hopefully SMSL AL400 can be tested as well. Better EQ, actual display off, built in DAC, HDMI etc

The SMSL AL400 looks interesting - built in power supply + built in DAC, that's one device for all. clean looks too but why does it have a LPF for the sub which doesn't need it and no HPF for the main speakers who need it when you use a sub.

Can I have that same package with a HPF pretty please?

I hope there is anything on the horizon that has:
- built-in DAC with USB input
- SW Output
- High Pass Filter, adjustable via Software or a reliable switch, not some cheap potentiometer
- no optical gimmicks, display that can turn itself off when not needed

 

[john61ct]

Probably worth posting to its own thread.

Likely needs a member to have it drop shipped to Amir - ask them first!!

 

[Hipster Doofus]

thanks, and thanks Amir for the review.
It seems like a Douk A5 with display, I just hope they improved the high pass filter implementation.......HI

Thanks, just saw the review.

@amirm, cheers for the testing, fairly welcome results yet also room for improvement.

Pics (stock, no silly opamp replacing );

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JSmith

HI, thinking about this specifically for the HPF, what did you mean by your comment please??

 

[MCH]

HI, thinking about this specifically for the HPF, what did you mean by your comment please??

You can read this and the following posts:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...et-stereo-amplifier-review.61410/post-2356886

 

[Tom67]

Please, on these inexpensive devices with limited real estate no balanced inputs are outputs. You're not dealing with the Macintosh crowd here. For every user with a balanced source, there are a hundred with CD players and other devices requiring an optical or coax. The limited real estate is the best used for that purpose.

 

[berjine]

Please, on these inexpensive devices with limited real estate no balanced inputs are outputs. You're not dealing with the Macintosh crowd here. For every user with a balanced source, there are a hundred with CD players and other devices requiring an optical or coax. The limited real estate is the best used for that purpose.

Well if you need a lot of inputs in a compact box you have nice things at Wiim or O-Noorus for example

 

[Tom67]

Well if you need a lot of inputs in a compact box you have nice things at Wiim or O-Noorus for example

Yes, thanks and that’s what makes Wiim more useful to more people.

 

[rebbiputzmaker]

With so much in the way of "bang for the buck" value delivered by this thing, I'm at a loss as to why several of these apparently very capable companies can't manage to implement PFFB properly. That wouldn't pose a problem for yours truly -- I'm 78, can barely hear 10 kHz, and have no use for this particular product -- but IMO there's clearly an issue of "so close, yet so far" here.

Just wondering, do you still, or did you have a vinyl system? Reason I’m asking because the rising high frequencies that these amps may exhibit, is really less than what we used to have with rising high frequencies due to cartridge, compliance, and Moving mass. My high frequencies are not the same as when I was younger either but, even then I would think that this is not that bad. Just a thought.

 

[Bruce Morgen]

Just wondering, do you still, or did you have a vinyl system? Reason I’m asking because the rising high frequencies that these amps may exhibit, is really less than what we used to have with rising high frequencies due to cartridge, compliance, and Moving mass. My high frequencies are not the same as when I was younger either but, even then I would think that this is not that bad. Just a thought.

I haven't spun vinyl even once during the current century. I'm not saying flawed PFFB is "that bad" -- I'm saying it's an unnecessary, unforced error on the part of (the boss's of?) the designer(s) of an otherwise exceptional product.

 

[Andy svk]

Mali by sa na cievky Sagami aplikovať chladiče?

 

[Olivastro]

Hi,
I need to connect the TSR inputs to a CD player that, unfortunately, only has RCA outputs.
Could you tell me how to set up a working connection on the D1 I own? A simple diagram showing how to connect the CD player’s RCA outputs to the D1’s TSR jacks would be great.

I purchased:
2 stereo jacks (6.3 mm)
2 male RCA connectors
1 shielded 2-pin cable

Following an online guide for making an RCA-to-TSR connection, I made a cable based on this diagram
| isolated ===== (shield) ================= connected |
SOURCE male RCA | connected === (negative terminal) ========= connected | male jack D1
| connected === (positive terminal) ========= connected |

The result is that I can hear the music, BUT there is also a lot of noise.

I also asked Douck Audio, but their response was to buy an adapter. They didn’t tell me “which one,” and there’s all sorts of stuff online, with the risk that once I buy it, it might not be compatible or, worse, cause damage.

I’m reaching out to you in the hope of getting some good technical advice from those who respond.
A simple wiring diagram or instructions on the connections I need to make would be enough...

 

[StivVid]

Hi,
I need to connect the TSR inputs to a CD player that, unfortunately, only has RCA outputs.
Could you tell me how to set up a working connection on the D1 I own? A simple diagram showing how to connect the CD player’s RCA outputs to the D1’s TSR jacks would be great.

I purchased:
2 stereo jacks (6.3 mm)
2 male RCA connectors
1 shielded 2-pin cable

Following an online guide for making an RCA-to-TSR connection, I made a cable based on this diagram
| isolated ===== (shield) ================= connected |
SOURCE male RCA | connected === (negative terminal) ========= connected | male jack D1
| connected === (positive terminal) ========= connected |

The result is that I can hear the music, BUT there is also a lot of noise.

I also asked Douck Audio, but their response was to buy an adapter. They didn’t tell me “which one,” and there’s all sorts of stuff online, with the risk that once I buy it, it might not be compatible or, worse, cause damage.

I’m reaching out to you in the hope of getting some good technical advice from those who respond.
A simple wiring diagram or instructions on the connections I need to make would be enough...

RCA Unbalanced to Balanced

Converting an **unbalanced RCA signal to a truly balanced signal** requires active electronics or transformers; a simple passive adapter cable cannot perform this conversion. While **direct RCA-to-TRS cables** (using TS connectors) can physically connect the devices, they maintain the signal as unbalanced and do not provide noise rejection benefits.

To achieve a genuine balanced output from an unbalanced RCA source, you must use a **line-level converter** or **direct box** that utilizes **transformers** (like the Rane Balance Buddy) or **op-amps** (like the Henry Engineering Matchbox). These devices actively convert the signal, often adjusting levels from **-10dBV** (consumer) to **+4dBu** (pro) and providing galvanic isolation to eliminate ground loops.

* **Passive Cables**: Connecting RCA to TRS via a standard cable (or a specific adapter like the Benchmark RCA-to-XLR) connects the signal but does not balance it; the signal remains unbalanced at the input.
* **Active Conversion**: Devices like the **Rolls DB24** or **RDL TX-AFC1F** use transformers to create a balanced signal, isolate the ground, and prevent hum.
* **Warning**: Using an unbalanced cable on a balanced output (the reverse direction) can **short the signal** and potentially damage the amplifier, whereas an unbalanced-to-balanced adapter is safe only if it is an active converter.

 

[Andy svk]

What are the dimensions of the top glass? Can someone please measure it?

 

[ICIETDIYEUR]

Hi

Dimensions of the top glass: 70mm x 128mm x 1,6mm.

 

[Andy svk]

thank you

 

[richardm]

Hi,
I need to connect the TSR inputs to a CD player that, unfortunately, only has RCA outputs.
Could you tell me how to set up a working connection on the D1 I own? A simple diagram showing how to connect the CD player’s RCA outputs to the D1’s TSR jacks would be great.

I purchased:
2 stereo jacks (6.3 mm)
2 male RCA connectors
1 shielded 2-pin cable

Following an online guide for making an RCA-to-TSR connection, I made a cable based on this diagram
| isolated ===== (shield) ================= connected |
SOURCE male RCA | connected === (negative terminal) ========= connected | male jack D1
| connected === (positive terminal) ========= connected |

The result is that I can hear the music, BUT there is also a lot of noise.

I also asked Douck Audio, but their response was to buy an adapter. They didn’t tell me “which one,” and there’s all sorts of stuff online, with the risk that once I buy it, it might not be compatible or, worse, cause damage.

I’m reaching out to you in the hope of getting some good technical advice from those who respond.
A simple wiring diagram or instructions on the connections I need to make would be enough...

Alternate wiring (this worked well when I had an unbalanced source driving a pair of studio monitors w/ balanced TRS inputs):

• source sleeves to input tips
• source tips to input rings
• input sleeves left open/floating

When I type it out it seems like a horror show. But in my case it did work. With 6ft cables there was an AC hum just barely above the system noise floor.

The alternative was a ground loop severe enough to make the setup unusable. Commercially available cables all seem to be wired the same way and they work until they don't. There used to be 1-2 "problem solver" cables on the market with this alternative scheme but it seems they've disappeared...

Edit: some of my autistic ranting on this topic.

 

[ICIETDIYEUR]

@ richardm, the possible and functional technical solutions have been given above by StivVid: in science, magic does not exist...

 

[richardm]

@ richardm, the possible and functional technical solutions have been given above by StivVid: in science, magic does not exist...

Have fun with that. The "magic" worked for me. Maybe it'll work for someone else, too.