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Amp for tweeters only on dsp/active 3 way

I did it with 16 x lme49600 parallel, no problem. Lme49600 has build in load compensation.
It is a proven concept called “ the wire”.

For balanced input you can use 2 amps( 16Watt).
 
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FS/EU : Hypex pack Ncore X NCX252MP + NCx102Ext + cables set as NEW (for 4 channels max DIY project)

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FS / EU : Hypex pack Full Mono : NC250MP + NC100HF (250W + 100W) as NEW

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For tweeter amps it is a good idea to keep the power of the amp low (~60 watts) as you don't need more and in the event of an accident you are much less likely to blow the tweeters than with a more powerful amp. Lower power amps tend to have less noise as well, not on a "signal to noise" basis (which is calculated at max power) but on actual idle output basis which is what you really care about for active speakers to minimize "hiss" at idle.
 
levimax said:
For tweeter amps it is a good idea to keep the power of the amp low (~60 watts) as you don't need more and in the event of an accident you are much less likely to blow the tweeters than with a more powerful amp. Lower power amps tend to have less noise as well, not on a "signal to noise" basis (which is calculated at max power) but on actual idle output basis which is what you really care about for active speakers to minimize "hiss" at idle.
Click to expand...
Some tweeters can blow with less than 1A, so whether you are driving it with a 10W or 100W amp, practically, there is no difference - what matters is to have a fuse/bulb to protect it, a limiter set correctly if DSP, and/or a DC blocking cap. I use 750mA fast blow on my tweeter and even when listening loud the fuse never blows.
 
Waveform Fidelity said:
Some tweeters can blow with less than 1A, so whether you are driving it with a 10W or 100W amp, practically, there is no difference - what matters is to have a fuse/bulb to protect it, a limiter set correctly if DSP, and/or a DC blocking cap. I use 750mA fast blow on my tweeter and even when listening loud the fuse never blows.
Click to expand...
what kind of fuse do you think I should use for the stock f208 tweeter?
 
Waveform Fidelity said:
Some tweeters can blow with less than 1A, so whether you are driving it with a 10W or 100W amp, practically, there is no difference - what matters is to have a fuse/bulb to protect it, a limiter set correctly if DSP, and/or a DC blocking cap. I use 750mA fast blow on my tweeter and even when listening loud the fuse never blows.
Click to expand...
We will have to respectfully disagree. In the event of an accident a 100 watt amp will burn out the tweeters in one 10th the time of a 10 watt amp which often gives you the time to take action. There are only downsides to more powerful than needed tweeter amps; cost, noise, power useage, damage, heat, etc.
 
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levimax said:
Fuses are not reliable for this use which is why they are not used in commercial products.
Click to expand...
In some commercial passive PA speakers in the early 1980s (Zeck 3-way) small light bulbs were used to protect the tweeters. As long as they are cold their resistance is very low, but when current gets sufficiently high the start to emit light and the resistance rises enough to protect the tweeter. Nice thing is that the light bulb does not blow, resulting in an auto reset.
 
NJ coffee roaster said:
I will probably go this route but wanted something cheaper and maybe with a better reliability pedigree
Click to expand...
There have been complaints about the B100, but I have not had any issues with any of my Topping products, 5 in total (as I knock on wood). But, there are other options out there. If you have not already done so, maybe look through Amir's amplifier reviews before deciding.
 
LTig said:
In some commercial passive PA speakers in the early 1980s (Zeck 3-way) small light bulbs were used to protect the tweeters. As long as they are cold their resistance is very low, but when current gets sufficiently high the start to emit light and the resistance rises enough to protect the tweeter. Nice thing is that the light bulb does not blow, resulting in an auto reset.
Click to expand...
Fuses and light bulbs were used from the dawn of audio technology to the early 1980's but not much if at all after that. It is obsolete 40+ year old technology and for a DIY project would require destructive trial and error testing to find the "right size", easier and cheaper to not worry and replace tweeters if they blow which is very unlikely. I have been playing around with DIY active systems with tweeters connected directly to the amps for over 20 years and had several "accidents" but never blew a tweeter.... but I only have 40-60 watt amps on the tweeters. The B100's aren't crazy overpowered for the job like the B200's. Neumann KH310 uses 70 watt amps on their tweeters but also very sophisticated protection technology so the B100's are in the ballpark.
 
levimax said:
We will have to respectfully disagree. In the event of an accident a 100 watt amp will burn out the tweeters in one 10th the time of a 10 watt amp which often gives you the time to take action. There are only downsides to more powerful than needed tweeter amps; cost, noise, power useage, damage, heat, etc.
Click to expand...
Yes - the 100W amp burns the tweeter coil in 100 msec and a 10W amp in 1 sec, both too fast to respond to. I’ve just started using ICEPOWER 100AS2 which cost $138 (2CH), have 70uV noise floor, barely measurable 0.003% THD with overcurrent and DC protection and anti pop/click during switch on/off. Sure I would have been happy with a 10W class AB/A amplifier if I could find one but it would have been $$more with inferior specs and if DIY not with amplifier or speaker protection. On power useage Class D wins too.
 
NJ coffee roaster said:
what kind of fuse do you think I should use for the stock f208 tweeter?
Click to expand...
You have to look at the power rating and excursion limits of the tweeter in question. You want a fuse that has a non-linear I2t characteristic, like a fast blow, so that under normal program peaks ( the PAPR of HF part of the audio spectrum is large like 10dB or so from memory) ideally the fuse is not “starting to melt” then you have to select the closest rating to that condition. You certainly don’t have to do trail and error to burn out tweeters to find the right fuse rating
 
If someone doesn't trust their amplifiers and is very protective of their tweeters, the safest bet is to install a capacitor and factor it into the DSP. If the crossover is passive, a series capacitor is always included in the tweeter filter, and no additional protection is needed.
 
If it's such a worry, it would be easier and cheaper to buy some spare tweeters (or buy a Hypex or Purifi amp.)
 
Mike123 said:
If someone doesn't trust their amplifiers and is very protective of their tweeters, the safest bet is to install a capacitor and factor it into the DSP. If the crossover is passive, a series capacitor is always included in the tweeter filter, and no additional protection is needed.
Click to expand...
Agreed I do that as well, but that only gets you LF protection, for overcurrent you need a fuse.
 
LTig said:
In some commercial passive PA speakers in the early 1980s (Zeck 3-way) small light bulbs were used to protect the tweeters. As long as they are cold their resistance is very low, but when current gets sufficiently high the start to emit light and the resistance rises enough to protect the tweeter. Nice thing is that the light bulb does not blow, resulting in an auto reset.
Click to expand...
Even today!
For example B&C:
www.bcspeakers.com

FB354 16Ω - Crossovers - B&C Speakers

www.bcspeakers.com www.bcspeakers.com
1782136884231.png
 
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