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For 700usd NC502MP rules.

 
You got it. Using the outputs on the Modius (either XLR or RCA will work for the V3s, but XLR is preferable and you have that possibility; although you might need an XLR to TRS cable to make the connection) you route the L/R Signal to your V3s and from them to your speakers.

If I’m understanding your setup correctly, your only way of adjusting volume would be upstream on your TV. I’d maybe think of implementing some measure that would ensure that you don’t accidentally have your TV volume at 100 when you don’t expect it.

Consider getting a measurement Mic, doing some measurements of the speakers and implementing some form of DSP next. Good luck!
Thanks! If I could have your help with one last thing that I just thought of, I saw that the Fosi's go up to 240 watts and the Kefs only support up to 200. Is that something I have to worry about or is it easy to tell when to stop turning it up? In addition is it possible to limit how many watts the Fosi's will output to 200 watts?
 
Thanks! If I could have your help with one last thing that I just thought of, I saw that the Fosi's go up to 240 watts and the Kefs only support up to 200. Is that something I have to worry about or is it easy to tell when to stop turning it up? In addition is it possible to limit how many watts the Fosi's will output to 200 watts?
200W continuously in any speaker is insane, you will be out of the room long before that. Meaning - it should get way too loud long before either the speakers or the amps are in danger of being damaged themselves (with most musical content).

You could limit the output with a digital limiter afaik, but I’m not sure how one would implement one in your system without additional hardware.
 
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200W continuously in any speaker is insane, you will be out of the room long before that. Meaning - it should get way too loud long before either the speakers or the amps are in danger of being damaged themselves (with most musical content).

You could limit the output with a digital compressor afaik, but I’m not sure how one would implement one in your system without additional hardware.
Thanks! It seems like a non-issue, then. I think I’m gonna go ahead and order a pair of the Fosi’s!
 
Hey, again. After looking at everyone’s recommendations I think that I’ve decided on the Fosi V3s. My question is how would those work with my Schiit Modius. I’m guessing the chain would be tv to dac to mono L/R to Speakers. Is this correct? I’m sorry if these seem very obvious, but I really am pretty new to this stuff. Thanks!
That will be the chain. Hopefully the Schiit has balanced outputs, but, if not, I think the Fosi V3's can also accept regular RCA cable, though balanced is always preferred. The Fosi's do not have volume controls, but that won't be a problem with most modern DACS which usually do have a volume output control.
 
The nice thing is that because I got them from bestbuy I still have the Kef warranty. If something goes wrong I'm covered with that and possibly my total-tech membership. Still, I'll be careful and calculated. Thanks!
As long as you have the warranty. you are good. Just be sure you have a way to control volume if you have the Fosi V3's. (That way you won't be feeding 220 watts continuous into your Reference Ones. Not that you would anyway, most music except for very loud passages will only push the amp into outputting a few watt regardless of volume level).

Some Schiit Dacs have a volume control, others do not. An inexpensive DAC that does is a Topping D10 which is around $120. You could also look at another Topping Amp, as an alternative to the V3's if you want an integrated volume control on the amp, that's the Topping D7 Plus, which also outputs around 220 wpc at 4 ohms. It is more expensive, however, at around $520 on Amazon.
 
The Fosi amps all sound wonderful. What I am torn about is even Amir’s review mentioned

“The protection circuit was the best kind with high tolerance of clipping and audio-restart.“

Which is great for getting the power you paid for, but blown KEF drivers do exist and that’s from clipping usually…

I have gotten some great deals on audio gear (not as great as yours), but buying a super car involves super car repair costs…

With you wanting eARC and the benefit of modern DSP, I would still advise waiting to see if the new JBL MA7100HP receivers deliver. It is already in Amir’s queue to review and happening within a month!

But I am naturally cautious, and someone could equally say that I am a worry-wart and that an earthquake could also throw the speaker to the floor.
 
Thanks! It seems like a non-issue, then. I think I’m gonna go ahead and order a pair of the Fosi’s!
You have bought some expensive speakers, and even if you paid surprisingly little for them, you should pay a little attention to protecting these speakers.
A Fosi V3 is an amazingly good amplifier, but it only has protection functions built into the chip, which I would never trust with such expensive speakers.

I would go for a brand that also has functional protection functions built in to protect the speakers. A used Yamaha A-S1000 for €/$ 500-600 would be cheap and good, for example, but larger models from the A-S1XXX and 2XXX are also available for under €/$ 1000.
But the selection of used and new amplifiers is very large.

And please stay away from volume controls in DACs if the volume is reduced via a DSP function in the DAC chip. This applies to almost all DACs. It is not worth risking such expensive speakers for this.
 
The Fosi amps all sound wonderful. What I am torn about is even Amir’s review mentioned

“The protection circuit was the best kind with high tolerance of clipping and audio-restart.“

Which is great for getting the power you paid for, but blown KEF drivers do exist and that’s from clipping usually…

I have gotten some great deals on audio gear (not as great as yours), but buying a super car involves super car repair costs…

With you wanting eARC and the benefit of modern DSP, I would still advise waiting to see if the new JBL MA7100HP receivers deliver. It is already in Amir’s queue to review and happening within a month!

But I am naturally cautious, and someone could equally say that I am a worry-wart and that an earthquake could also throw the speaker to the floor.
In addition, there is no additional protection circuit against DC in such cheap amplifiers in case an unfortunate defect occurs.
 
I would go for a brand that also has functional protection functions built in to protect the speakers.

One thing that I also like is that Yamaha A8A

It doesn’t have Dirac, so full range correction is limited (it does have a PEQ), but since you are running a speaker that is anechoically flat, you may benefit from the virtual surround features when playing music. You can also use cheap wireless surrounds if you like. (MusicCast rear).
1725273855989.png

Its on sale now for $1600. AudioVision.De had the stereo performance at 260W.

Their other amps:
Denon A1H : 287W
Marantz Cinema 60: 193W
Denon X3800H: 190W (matched Amir’s 1% THD at 4 ohms).
Sony TA-N1000: 178W
Pioneer VSX-LX305: 178W

Protection, power, ergonomics and then SINAD is how you should prioritize your purchase. Speakers make the biggest difference in sound quality. You have the best but do not have the money to replace drivers if damaged…

A big brand company can also damage speakers, but it’s only science that the more protection circuitry there is, the safer you are overall.
 
In addition, there is no additional protection circuit against DC in such cheap amplifiers in case an unfortunate defect occurs.
One thing that I also like is that Yamaha A8A

It doesn’t have Dirac, so full range correction is limited (it does have a PEQ), but since you are running a speaker that is anechoically flat, you may benefit from the virtual surround features when playing music. You can also use cheap wireless surrounds if you like. (MusicCast rear).
View attachment 389922
Its on sale now for $1600. AudioVision.De had the stereo performance at 260W.

Their other amps:
Denon A1H : 287W
Marantz Cinema 60: 193W
Denon X3800H: 190W (matched Amir’s 1% THD at 4 ohms).
Sony TA-N1000: 178W
Pioneer VSX-LX305: 178W

Protection, power, ergonomics and then SINAD is how you should prioritize your purchase. Speakers make the biggest difference in sound quality. You have the best but do not have the money to replace drivers if damaged…

A big brand company can also damage speakers, but it’s only science that the more protection circuitry there is, the safer you are overall.
I looked Into the Fosi's a bit more and and came to the same conclusion. Thank you for your recommendations. I was wanting to get the references playing as fast as possible, but it seems like the best idea is to save up a bit for something worthy of them!
 
I was wanting to get the references playing as fast as possible, but it seems like the best idea is to save up a bit for something worthy of them!

It’s a balance. Look for used and the key is that “worthy” doesn’t mean expensive. But in this case, focus on features.



This only has 178W into 4 ohms but again, if you want to get up and running, that might work. The Sony gives you standard industry speaker protection but it hasn’t been officially measured by Amir. You should consider dropshipping it to Amir for testing if you can within the trial period.
 
It’s a balance. Look for used and the key is that “worthy” doesn’t mean expensive. But in this case, focus on features.



This only has 178W into 4 ohms but again, if you want to get up and running, that might work. The Sony gives you standard industry speaker protection but it hasn’t been officially measured by Amir. You should consider dropshipping it to Amir for testing if you can within the trial period.
This does look good. If it has great speaker protection, then it might a good purchase. I wonder if any flaws will be audible even if it doesn't measure that well. If I get this I will see about sending it in.
 
It’s a balance. Look for used and the key is that “worthy” doesn’t mean expensive. But in this case, focus on features.



This only has 178W into 4 ohms but again, if you want to get up and running, that might work. The Sony gives you standard industry speaker protection but it hasn’t been officially measured by Amir. You should consider dropshipping it to Amir for testing if you can within the trial period.
Hey, I just found the NAD - D 3045 Hybrid Digital Amplifier: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/nad-d-3045-hybrid-digital-amplifier-black/6451303.p?skuId=6451303

This amp seems like it has everything I want. Would this have good speaker protection for dc currents and whatnot? Thanks.
 
Pairing those wonderful speakers with a Fosi amp just doesn't seem right to me. To me, it's like putting costume jewelry on Raquel Welch.
 
If it has great speaker protection, then it might a good purchase.
These are major manufacturers we are talking about, of course they'll have decent DC protection facilities.
I wonder if any flaws will be audible even if it doesn't measure that well.
Highly doubtful. I wouldn't overdo levels on the CD input, those units with CD-Direct tend to have limited headroom there. With playback volume normalization active it's likely to be about right though.
Note that DAC performance actually isn't that bad, it's just that the DAC does not get the benefit of gain redistribution and consequential reduced output noise level. Any source on another non-CD high-level input or disabling CD Direct would exhibit the same higher noise. Only the elevated distortion and H2 in particular actually goes back to the DAC, it's very typical for the PCM510x series (but audibly inconsequential at 90 dB down - you'll be lucky to hear anything at -90 dBFS in isolation, let alone with the signal present).

We have a review / thread on the D3045:
Fundamentally not a bad unit but it does seem to have its quirks, and it looks like it falls a bit short on 4 ohm power.
 
Pairing those wonderful speakers with a Fosi amp just doesn't seem right to me. To me, it's like putting costume jewelry on Raquel Welch.
I have, in the end, decided to go with something else after learning more about the Fosi's. Rest assured!
 
These are major manufacturers we are talking about, of course they'll have decent DC protection facilities.

Highly doubtful. I wouldn't overdo levels on the CD input, those units with CD-Direct tend to have limited headroom there. With playback volume normalization active it's likely to be about right though.
Note that DAC performance actually isn't that bad, it's just that the DAC does not get the benefit of gain redistribution and consequential reduced output noise level. Any source on another non-CD high-level input or disabling CD Direct would exhibit the same higher noise. Only the elevated distortion and H2 in particular actually goes back to the DAC, it's very typical for the PCM510x series (but audibly inconsequential at 90 dB down - you'll be lucky to hear anything at -90 dBFS in isolation, let alone with the signal present).

We have a review / thread on the D3045:
Fundamentally not a bad unit but it does seem to have its quirks, and it looks like it falls a bit short on 4 ohm power.
The Sony looks quite good to me, by the way, but I can't find it as having any impedance below 6 ohms. Even if they could squeak out 4 ohms, though, the Reference 1 metas seem to have a minimum impedance of 3.2 ohms. The impedance reading on Kef's website and looking around the internet, it seems like that could be a pretty bad problem. In fact, it seems like most amps don't go down to 3.2 ohms.
 
The amplifier shown in post #21 is rated down to 2 Ohm.

Are you looking for a power amp, integrated amp , AVR ? I can't really tell.

 
Are you looking for a power amp, integrated amp , AVR ? I can't really tell.

His wishlist includes eARC, so the recommendations have pretty much been AVRs or AIO’s


The Sony looks quite good to me, by the way, but I can't find it as having any impedance below 6 ohms.
1725322085323.png

3.2 ohms is not the worst and this did 106W x 5 ch into 4 ohms

By comparison, the Marantz Cinema 60
1725322148309.png


Which is barely better for that 4 ohm, 5 channels.

The Cinema 60 only has basic Audyssey and is $1000 refurb, as opposed to the Sony which is $700 new.

My vote is the Sony *if* we are sticking to strict budgets. It has an independent review in Germany, you can buy it new from somewhere like Crutchfield and drop ship to Amir for testing. The JBL is also the wildcard. If it measures well, it’s definitely an attractive AVR.
 
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