Alternatives to USB audio in older Volvo with new USB-C iPhones?

[5omeone]

Hi everyone,

I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 and have been using the USB connection to stream music from my iPhone (XS and 13Pro) to the standard Volvo “High Performance” sound system. But this no longer works with my new USB-C iPhone; the “iPod”-compatible USB port simply doesn’t recognize the iPhone (15 Pro) anymore. I’ve already tried several standard USB cables (including data cables), but it seems that Apple is blocking certain protocols for USB-C.

Is there an alternative wired or wireless option? I’d also like to install a Bluetooth-enabled dongle, for example, that feeds the signal via USB. I’d actually prefer to avoid a USB-to-AUX solution, since I’d like to at least retain the ability to skip tracks (forward and backward) using the Volvo head unit.

I’d really appreciate a few tips or suggestions.

Many thanks and best regards

 

[staticV3]

I’d also like to install a Bluetooth-enabled dongle, for example, that feeds the signal via USB.

Bluetooth in -> USB out dongles categorically do not exist.

I'd try contacting Apple Customer support to ask what kind of cable is required to restore playback functionality on your Volvo.

 

[Randolf]

I had the same problem last year in my Alfa Romeo Spider from 2010. After upgrading my iphone from a lightning to a USB-C modell the Alfa/Fiat/Lancia Blue&Me system was no longer able to access music on the phone to my surprise. I ended up replacing the entire Radio headunit in the car with something recent from Kenwood with all the latest stuff (Apple Carplay, Android Auto, DAB+, DSP, ...). Unfortunately depending on the car modell this can be a little bit tricky in "modern" cars (physical fitting, interaction between radio and car functions, CAN-BUS adapters). For many car models cheap Android based headunits are available, promissing plug&play replacement, but you need to carefully check all details (manufacturing date, exact OEM radio type, OEM soundsystems, ...).

 

[somebodyelse]

Bluetooth in -> USB out dongles categorically do not exist.

But you can use a Pi Zero as one. piCorePlayer can do it, and as the filesystem is read-only it shouldn't have any problems with filesystem corruption when the power suddenly disappears. It'll probably do AirPlay too.

 

[Roland68]

Hi everyone,

I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 and have been using the USB connection to stream music from my iPhone (XS and 13Pro) to the standard Volvo “High Performance” sound system. But this no longer works with my new USB-C iPhone; the “iPod”-compatible USB port simply doesn’t recognize the iPhone (15 Pro) anymore. I’ve already tried several standard USB cables (including data cables), but it seems that Apple is blocking certain protocols for USB-C.

Is there an alternative wired or wireless option? I’d also like to install a Bluetooth-enabled dongle, for example, that feeds the signal via USB. I’d actually prefer to avoid a USB-to-AUX solution, since I’d like to at least retain the ability to skip tracks (forward and backward) using the Volvo head unit.

I’d really appreciate a few tips or suggestions.

Many thanks and best regards

You could try the original Apple USB-C to Lightning adapter; most older dock connectors will work with your regular USB-to-Lightning cable using that.

When ordering, make sure you don't get a fake.

 

[5omeone]

You could try the original Apple USB-C to Lightning adapter; most older dock connectors will work with your regular USB-to-Lightning cable using that.

When ordering, make sure you don't get a fake.

Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking 12 hours before you posted. I've already ordered one of those adapters, but I haven't received it yet. We'll see - I'll keep you posted.

But you can use a Pi Zero as one. piCorePlayer can do it, and as the filesystem is read-only it shouldn't have any problems with filesystem corruption when the power suddenly disappears. It'll probably do AirPlay too.

Okay, that doesn't exactly sound like a quick and easy solution. I'll try using a different adapter and cable first, and if nothing works, I'll consider that approach.

I had the same problem last year in my Alfa Romeo Spider from 2010. After upgrading my iphone from a lightning to a USB-C modell the Alfa/Fiat/Lancia Blue&Me system was no longer able to access music on the phone to my surprise. I ended up replacing the entire Radio headunit in the car with something recent from Kenwood with all the latest stuff (Apple Carplay, Android Auto, DAB+, DSP, ...). Unfortunately depending on the car modell this can be a little bit tricky in "modern" cars (physical fitting, interaction between radio and car functions, CAN-BUS adapters). For many car models cheap Android based headunits are available, promissing plug&play replacement, but you need to carefully check all details (manufacturing date, exact OEM radio type, OEM soundsystems, ...).

Good idea, but because of the specific interior design, there’s simply no room for a new head unit. The center console is only 4 cm deep.

Bluetooth in -> USB out dongles categorically do not exist.

I'd try contacting Apple Customer support to ask what kind of cable is required to restore playback functionality on your Volvo.

Yeah, good idea. Working on this.

 

[somebodyelse]

Okay, that doesn't exactly sound like a quick and easy solution. I'll try using a different adapter and cable first, and if nothing works, I'll consider that approach.

I guess it depends on familiarity - IIRC it took me a couple of tries to get the bluetooth receiving going, probably under 20 minutes. It wasn't my first time with piCorePlayer though. Not tried it recently, so could have changed.

 

[5omeone]

Update: I was able to fix the problem: it really is the cable.

I specifically looked for a data cable and ordered a few, along with the Apple USB-to-Lightning adapter. The cheapest no-name cable worked right away. I also tried a Rode SC18, which works as well. Then I also have a Jamega USB cable, which has the same pin configuration as the Rode and the no-name cables, but it doesn’t work. I couldn’t figure out why. It works perfectly for data transfer on a PC. However, it has a slightly lower internal resistance than the other two cables (as measured with the Treedix USB cable tester), but it is also 30 cm shorter.

I really can't figure out why certain cables work differently even though they have the same pin configuration and specifications...

 

[staticV3]

I really can't figure out why certain cables work differently even though they have the same pin configuration and specifications...

There are resistors (and nowadays microchips) inside each USB plug which mark the cable's power, data, and OTG capabilities.

If you were to tear your cables apart, then you'd likely see a common trend in these resistors among the cables that work and those that don't.

I also have a few C-C cables with some special configuration, and only those cables allow me to use a handful of USB-C accessories which normally cannot be plugged into a USB-C host due to a faulty USB port configuration.

All of these cables are directional with a clearly marked Host side and an Accessory side, even though they have USB-C plugs on both ends.

And then I have one C-C cable (Xduoo X-C12) which also enables using those faulty devices with USB-C hosts, but unlike the others it's bidirectional so it doesn't matter which end goes where.

USB-C is supposed to be this universal interface that works across any host and accessory, but if you look under the hood you can find a bunch of inconsistencies like this.

 

[Roland68]

Update: I was able to fix the problem: it really is the cable.

I specifically looked for a data cable and ordered a few, along with the Apple USB-to-Lightning adapter. The cheapest no-name cable worked right away. I also tried a Rode SC18, which works as well. Then I also have a Jamega USB cable, which has the same pin configuration as the Rode and the no-name cables, but it doesn’t work. I couldn’t figure out why. It works perfectly for data transfer on a PC. However, it has a slightly lower internal resistance than the other two cables (as measured with the Treedix USB cable tester), but it is also 30 cm shorter.

I really can't figure out why certain cables work differently even though they have the same pin configuration and specifications...

This is partly because many cables above USB 2.0 now contain electronics that aren't always compatible.
The easiest solution is to buy high-quality cables, for example from Lindy. And for audio, always use USB 2.0, nothing higher, even if the device has a USB-C port.
The only exception is USB interfaces that definitely have a higher interface than 2.0, but a USB-C port isn't an indicator of this.

 

[somebodyelse]

USB-C is supposed to be this universal interface that works across any host and accessory, but if you look under the hood you can find a bunch of inconsistencies like this.

Then add thunderbolt to get some further inconsistencies. It's the number of optional bits of functionality that either end may or may not have that makes it a bit of a lottery, even before you consider things with a broken implementation like the early Pi 4, or devices that are sensitive to which way up the connector is.