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Allo Volt+ D Amplifier Review

Bruce Morgen

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I am really happy with my +D and was wondering if it is silly to get something like this: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/hifi...ly-24v-4a-100w-for-fda-amplifier-p-14183.html

Could a LPSU possibly justify spending more than the cost of the actual amp?

No. You can buy a generic 24VDC 10A "power brick" for about $50 USD on Amazon that will source as much "juice" as any TPA3116 amp can use, even a "2.1" model with a PBTL subwoofer channel. Allo's internal circuitry is more than adequate to make sure the chip gets sufficiently "stabilized" power. IOW, hold on to your Euros.
 

armigo

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No. You can buy a generic 24VDC 10A "power brick" for about $50 USD on Amazon that will source as much "juice" as any TPA3116 amp can use, even a "2.1" model with a PBTL subwoofer channel. Allo's internal circuitry is more than adequate to make sure the chip gets sufficiently "stabilized" power. IOW, hold on to your Euros.

Thanks a lot for the response some people before mention that a linear regulated supply could be beneficial so I was tempted to think that I could make something I like even better.

Also, I more thinking about reducing noise than having more power even the 19v supply provides decent power for my room and speakers.
 
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johnk

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I am really happy with my +D and was wondering if it is silly to get something like this: https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/hifi...ly-24v-4a-100w-for-fda-amplifier-p-14183.html

Could a LPSU possibly justify spending more than the cost of the actual amp?
This sounds like a lot of money. I went with an Alitove 24v 5A switched PSU as discussed here https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/41484-voltd-class-d-amp-dual-mono-2x-60w/
Unfortunately they didn't provide any actual measurements, but at the price it is worth the investment just to try it.
I have tried many PSU's with both my Volt+ and Volt+ D, but lack the equipment and knowledge to provide any measurements.
Rating my PSU's in order of personal preference -
  • Alitove 24v - I have both 6A and 5A variants and cannot tell the difference
  • Very old Toshiba 15v 4A laptop PSU (I don't know why this sounds good. If anyone has any explanation that would be great)
  • LiteOn 19v 3.42A laptop PSU (provided with my Volt+ on purchase)
  • Asus 19v 1.5A
  • Generic ebay 24v 5A PSU (sound awful - and I have 2 of them ... I did measure the voltage with a meter and they are giving 24v. Very light boxes in comparison to the Alitove. Maybe I should open one up and share the disaster here?)
 
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Sukie

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Thanks a lot for the response some people before mention that a linear regulated supply could be beneficial so I was tempted to think that I could make something I like even better.
General rule - if you already like it then just enjoy it. Don't worry about the mythological search for minuscule improvement.
 

johnk

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  • Generic ebay 24v 5A PSU (sound awful - and I have 2 of them ... I did measure the voltage with a meter and they are giving 24v. Very light boxes in comparison to the Alitove. Maybe I should open one up and share the disaster here?)
I enjoyed destroying one of the cheap PSUs. :)
 

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Poultrygeist

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My Volt+D came with a second capacitance multiplier ( one is built in ) which I mounted on top with stand offs. The CM's reduce noise and allow use of a cheaper power supply. When I tried my +D with a linear regulated I didn't notice any improvement vs the stock 19v power brick. I have a Meanwell 24v SMPS that I recently bought for another TPA amp which I might try at some point.

P1010010.jpeg
 
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tvrgeek

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Going to have to go get some cheese and crackers after reading 10 pages of "wine" about a unit that performs quite well. Don't care for the packaging myself, but to each his own.
 

apastuszak

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Hello all. New member here. I bought an Allo Volt+ D 2 weeks ago, when they came back in stock at pishop.us. Had a question about power supplies for this thing.

Pishop.us did not offer any power supply options, and I really wanted to try thing out as soon as possible. So I ran out to Walmart and bought an Onn universal laptop power supply to give this thing a try. There were a few reviews that said the barrel jack got hot enough to melt the plastic enclosure on their laptop.

I found a thread on another forum that recommended this power supply:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GC6VS8I

Hooked it up and all is working well.

But I was thinking of kicking the safety up a notch and getting a power supply that was UL listed. I found this one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HKC03ZW

All the UL listed power supplies I am finding have a 2 prong connector. The one that I bought has a 3 prong connector.

How much does the ground connector matter?
 

Poultrygeist

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Doesn't matter. The cheaper one is fine. None of the vintage amps came with a 3 prong.
 

Bruce Morgen

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Hello all. New member here. I bought an Allo Volt+ D 2 weeks ago, when they came back in stock at pishop.us. Had a question about power supplies for this thing.

Pishop.us did not offer any power supply options, and I really wanted to try thing out as soon as possible. So I ran out to Walmart and bought an Onn universal laptop power supply to give this thing a try. There were a few reviews that said the barrel jack got hot enough to melt the plastic enclosure on their laptop.

I found a thread on another forum that recommended this power supply:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GC6VS8I

Hooked it up and all is working well.

But I was thinking of kicking the safety up a notch and getting a power supply that was UL listed. I found this one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HKC03ZW

All the UL listed power supplies I am finding have a 2 prong connector. The one that I bought has a 3 prong connector.

How much does the ground connector matter?

YMMV, but I for one wouldn't worry about UL listing -- or, for that matter, how many prongs the mains plug has -- and I suspect Europe's "CE" mark denotes (at least) UL-equivalent safety criteria. I found this somewhat pricier 24VDC 10A power brick to be just right for the little TPA3116-based 2.1 chip amp that rocks my TV room -- with volume and clarity to spare -- and I suspect your Allo would thrive on having all that current available to handle musical peaks:

24VDC 10A power brick
 

apastuszak

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YMMV, but I for one wouldn't worry about UL listing -- or, for that matter, how many prongs the mains plug has -- and I suspect Europe's "CE" mark denotes (at least) UL-equivalent safety criteria. I found this somewhat pricier 24VDC 10A power brick to be just right for the little TPA3116-based 2.1 chip amp that rocks my TV room -- with volume and clarity to spare -- and I suspect your Allo would thrive on having all that current available to handle musical peaks:

24VDC 10A power brick

CE is an equivalent rating. But I don't think CE ratings require you to submit your equipment for rigorous testing. You can just submit design blueprints and get certified. UL requires actual equipment that they test in their own labs.

That brick looks interesting, but costs more than I want to spend. I use it as a desk amp on my work desk, so I don't need it to get room filling loud.
 

armigo

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One problem I have with the Volt is the unpleasant turn on pop. Are you guys experiencing the same? And is there anything that could be done about it?
 

armigo

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Sorry my bad that's a rather simple fix since I got the amp I didn't really pay this mute switch any mind. I guess now I know why it exists
 

robo

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I decided to go for one of these - I ordered directly from Allo, so ended up paying an extra $65 USD for shipping - phew! Making it a bit less bargain, but I decided to go for it anyway. Ordered an Alitov 24V/6A PSU separately.

I had a question about power draw however - the amp is warm all the time, and seems to draw about 5.3W no matter if it's in use or not. If I turn on the 'mute' switch, power draw drops to a bit over 2W. Is that to be expected? The PSU itself seems to draw about 1W even when not plugged into anything. I guess I sort of assume that since Class D amps were considered efficient, they'd also be efficient when idle, but maybe that's not the case. I was definitley surprised at the continuous current draw.

Right now it's connected to a smart socket, so I can turn it off when it's not in use (it's also giving me the power usage numbers) but just wanted to check that this is normal.
 
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Poultrygeist

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I've now integrated the Volt+D into my HT. Using a Niles amp switcher I can select either the AV receiver for 5.1 or the Volt for stereo mains. A Fire Stick through the TV digital output feeds a Topping DAC connected to the Volt +D. I never have problems posting pictures here but for what ever reason I can't today.
 

howard416

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Great value. Just wondering about the audibility of the H7 and H9... seems higher than it should be, but at the same time should be buried within the noise floor?
 

sychan

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Great value. Just wondering about the audibility of the H7 and H9... seems higher than it should be, but at the same time should be buried within the noise floor?

At -95db, its going to be way below any background noise you have where ever you listen to music. Bear in mind the cost of this amplifier, and I don't really get "higher than it should be".
 
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