Pulkass
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I have it, re tubed with Tube amp Doctor and now PSVane Horizon, it gets life and attack after 40 minutes of being ON.
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AIYIMA T20 Tube Pre-amplifier Review
- Thread starter amirm
- Start date
As a tube buffer ?
I have been living with the T20 for several months now, rolling tubes and op amps. I have tried New Gold Lion, New EH and NOS measuring Telefunken smooth plates. I found the Telefunken tubes to my liking, but that’s no surprise. I have favored them to any other brand, in every 12AX7 component I have tried. I also tried NE5532P, OPA828, APA2604 and Burson V7 Vivid op amps.
Having had a lot of tube gear in the past, I would say that no matter what the change, the change is incrementally smaller than it does with a high end (something like a Primaluna) tube preamp. It always retains a clear, even keel presentation. More or less like a passive preamp, but you are changing the flavor by tweaking something like 10% of the overall signature.
As far as op amps go, the one that changed the character incrementally most was the Burson V7 Vivid. I’m not sure if it’s because of a slight gain difference, or the fact that it is the only discreet op amp in the bunch. Doing blind testing with a friend, because I don’t trust knowing the change, the Burson had a seemingly cleaner sounding presentation, but most of all had more drive. The 3 Burson op amps also exceed the cost of the T20, as do 2 NOS Telefunken tube, making whole cost triple and to be not worth it. That is, if you are looking for a more traditionally heavier tube sound.
At the end of the day, it’s not something I think most traditional tube lovers would prefer, but it’s really cool if you are the opposite and want to minimally tailor the sound. Replacing the T20 with a Schiit Buf and a recently acquired vintage Forte F44 preamp was a night and day difference. Switching back to the T20 after that, the Buf and Forte combination had a significantly more prominent thickness or richness to the sound, very much in line with the traditional tube sound.
If you are wanting (or at least wanting to try) a more traditionally prominent tube sound, I would recommend getting the Schiit Buf, and feed your current preamp. It’s easily the best tube buffer I have had. It’s $99, and you can return it if you on’t like it.
Just for reference: My current 2 channel system path is as follows: Eversolo T8 -> Michael Yee DA-1 DAC -> Schiit Buf -> Forte F44 preamp -> Anthem MCA 325 amp -> Legacy Signature SE speakers. I have a dedicated/treated room built to “golden ratio” dimensions.
Having had a lot of tube gear in the past, I would say that no matter what the change, the change is incrementally smaller than it does with a high end (something like a Primaluna) tube preamp. It always retains a clear, even keel presentation. More or less like a passive preamp, but you are changing the flavor by tweaking something like 10% of the overall signature.
As far as op amps go, the one that changed the character incrementally most was the Burson V7 Vivid. I’m not sure if it’s because of a slight gain difference, or the fact that it is the only discreet op amp in the bunch. Doing blind testing with a friend, because I don’t trust knowing the change, the Burson had a seemingly cleaner sounding presentation, but most of all had more drive. The 3 Burson op amps also exceed the cost of the T20, as do 2 NOS Telefunken tube, making whole cost triple and to be not worth it. That is, if you are looking for a more traditionally heavier tube sound.
At the end of the day, it’s not something I think most traditional tube lovers would prefer, but it’s really cool if you are the opposite and want to minimally tailor the sound. Replacing the T20 with a Schiit Buf and a recently acquired vintage Forte F44 preamp was a night and day difference. Switching back to the T20 after that, the Buf and Forte combination had a significantly more prominent thickness or richness to the sound, very much in line with the traditional tube sound.
If you are wanting (or at least wanting to try) a more traditionally prominent tube sound, I would recommend getting the Schiit Buf, and feed your current preamp. It’s easily the best tube buffer I have had. It’s $99, and you can return it if you on’t like it.
Just for reference: My current 2 channel system path is as follows: Eversolo T8 -> Michael Yee DA-1 DAC -> Schiit Buf -> Forte F44 preamp -> Anthem MCA 325 amp -> Legacy Signature SE speakers. I have a dedicated/treated room built to “golden ratio” dimensions.
RandomEar
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To everybody claiming "night and day differences", "rich tube sound" and all the best adjectives I recommend doing this listening test here:
www.audiosciencereview.com
Feel free to report back your ABX result
(To be clear: I do not dispute that some tube gear is bad enough to be audibly different. I also don't think nobody will be able to (barely) pass an ABX on the linked test. Yet, for most people and especially when using tubes in pre-amps where they are under no stress at all, you will be hard pressed to hear any difference. Most reports are coming from testing which wasn't properly controlled and are 100% placebo.)
Fever FE-6J1-2 tube preamplifier kit review + listening test files
This is a review and description of a FE-6J1-2 Tube preamplifier kit which can be ordered from many internet stores, e.g. AliExpress. I bought mine from a local store at about $18. It is a simple circuit that is powered from external 12Vac power supply. It uses 6J1 tubes that are able to work...
www.audiosciencereview.com
Feel free to report back your ABX result
(To be clear: I do not dispute that some tube gear is bad enough to be audibly different. I also don't think nobody will be able to (barely) pass an ABX on the linked test. Yet, for most people and especially when using tubes in pre-amps where they are under no stress at all, you will be hard pressed to hear any difference. Most reports are coming from testing which wasn't properly controlled and are 100% placebo.)
I totally agree with this. It needs to be totally blind, meaning the changes have to be random (sometimes where it’s not changed), etc. I also think you can’t pull some random dude, or friend, with no listening experience. It’s like folks that never drink wine trying to identify differences red wines. People evolve their abilities to taste differences with experience. It’s the same with audio. However, even the wine industry has challenges with tastings, as they bias themselves without blind tasting.To everybody claiming "night and day differences", "rich tube sound" and all the best adjectives I recommend doing this listening test here:
Fever FE-6J1-2 tube preamplifier kit review + listening test files
This is a review and description of a FE-6J1-2 Tube preamplifier kit which can be ordered from many internet stores, e.g. AliExpress. I bought mine from a local store at about $18. It is a simple circuit that is powered from external 12Vac power supply. It uses 6J1 tubes that are able to work...
Feel free to report back your ABX result
(To be clear: I do not dispute that some tube gear is bad enough to be audibly different. I also don't think nobody will be able to (barely) pass an ABX on the linked test. Yet, for most people and especially when using tubes in pre-amps where they are under no stress at all, you will be hard pressed to hear any difference. Most reports are coming from testing which wasn't properly controlled and are 100% placebo.)
Here is the process followed, in case anyone is wondering. I have a big storage area behind my equipment. I level match everything for volume with REW (because volume level has a huge impact), and then randomly switch stuff completely out of site. The pictures are of the main room, what the main equipment rack looks like and the back (don’t judge
because it doubles as a 9.3.6 HT room) after I was doing a test of T20 tubes with a friend. The need for totally random blind testing is not a new concept. I disconnect what Is needed every time, and reconnect it, so even that is the same. Everything used is plugged in and left that way, as some things need to get to operating temp. I also wait the same amount time between changes before playing again. Some changes can be done quickly but others not, so that is important. The bottom line is that I understand what blind testing is, and have been doing it for a very long time. I would say more than half the time, folks can’t hear any difference, which is awesome, as you learn that some things just don’t matter.What’s makes tube vs. no tube easy with the Schiit Buf is that there is a switch on the back that you can turn off, take the tube out of the picture and engages a relay, it is at that point essentially a straight wire situation. I currently have Tesla blue tip 6922 tube in the Buf. If there is ever a situation where friends have nailed the difference every single time, it’s that test. Not all agree which is better, but that’s a preference thing.
What’s challenging about blind testing is that only works if you are open to the potential of hearing differences. It is impossible to remove the bias of someone who goes into the test convinced they will hear no difference. Bias is bias. Mind thinks this, and this happens. You can’t decide when to apply it, and when to igore it.
Anyway, we are in agreement that a blind testing is needed, and it needs to be controlled correctly. Hope this helps in understanding at least the process followed.
RandomEar
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That is cretainly more effort than most people would invest, so props for that. However, I do have some bad news about the whole wine tasting situation:I totally agree with this. It needs to be totally blind, meaning the changes have to be random (sometimes where it’s not changed), etc. I also think you can’t pull some random dude, or friend, with no listening experience. It’s like folks that never drink wine trying to identify differences red wines. People evolve their abilities to taste differences with experience. It’s the same with audio. However, even the wine industry has challenges with tastings, as they bias themselves without blind tasting.
Here is the process followed, in case anyone is wondering. I have a big storage area behind my equipment. I level match everything for volume with REW (because volume level has a huge impact), and then randomly switch stuff completely out of site. The pictures are of the main room, what the main equipment rack looks like and the back (don’t judge
What’s makes tube vs. no tube easy with the Schiit Buf is that there is a switch on the back that you can turn off, take the tube out of the picture and engages a relay, it is at that point essentially a straight wire situation. I currently have Tesla blue tip 6922 tube in the Buf. If there is ever a situation where friends have nailed the difference every single time, it’s that test. Not all agree which is better, but that’s a preference thing.
What’s challenging about blind testing is that only works if you are open to the potential of hearing differences. It is impossible to remove the bias of someone who goes into the test convinced they will hear no difference. Bias is bias. Mind thinks this, and this happens. You can’t decide when to apply it, and when to igore it.
Anyway, we are in agreement that a blind testing is needed, and it needs to be controlled correctly. Hope this helps in understanding at least the process followed.
Wine-tasting: it's junk science
Noses have been put out of joint in the wine industry, with experiments showing that even experts can't always tell cheap plonk from grand cru. David Derbyshire reports on the chemistry behind the taste
www.theguardian.com
Yes... they are.
Question is whether the crackling is still there when the tubes are pulled out (no tubes installed)? If so, then the buffer OP amp IC can be bad or another component in the output circuit. If no crackling anymore then either the tube circuit components or the volume IC may be bad. If the volume IC I guess without proper de-soldering and soldering it is not possible to exchange it. If still in warranty then use this way.
fpitas
Grand Contributor
Don't know the circuit because not available in the wide internet. I think without tube of one crackling channel it should be safe. When a tube breaks then the amp should also not go bad.
fpitas
Grand Contributor
Pulled tubes. Noise is still there. For fun, I switched to JJ tubes from the EI I have been using. Less gain with the JJs and subjectively less detail and presence. The JJs do glow though, while the EIs don't. One of the EIs flashes when turned on. Tubes have much more personality than stolid state!
Attached the block diagram. When RCA connectors used then the signal travels through another IC. So you can test whether the crackling is also at the XLR connectors. If no then this additonal IC may be the cause. Another cause could be the supply voltage(s). There I cannot see whether both channels have the same supply. If yes, then crackling should be at both channels. Last not least you may swap the buffer ICs between channels whether the crackling walks with the buffer IC.
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