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AIYIMA A80 Stereo Amplifier & DAC Review
- Thread starter amirm
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Casimir101
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I put my ear to my Aiyima A80 again today (with the volume turned all the way up) and there's absolutely no interference – not a single 0.0000000000 noise. It must be your system!
Luxsin X9.Is there a good DAC+headphone amp with this kind of VU screen? Now I want one
Not that much though. Under 300 or I will just buy a RME
EddiM
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A80 Thermal Shutdown Issues 
Very disappointed with this unit. I purchased it in early March following Amir's review.
I'm not an audiophile - I use it connected to my PC, mostly listening to Spotify. Nothing demanding.
The Problem:
From day one, I've been experiencing thermal shutdowns. Music stops playing randomly. The unit is always extremely hot to touch - too hot to comfortably leave my hand on for more than a few seconds. This is unacceptable for consumer electronics.
I attempted temperature measurements, but the anodized case makes accurate readings difficult.
What I Found Inside:
I decided to open it up to investigate. Oh boy, it's a f*****g disaster. Thermally, it's pure stupidity and negligence. I've honestly stocked how a company mass manufacturing audio products, using a chip known to run hot, putting such thermally bad design to market.
Anyway I let you judge....
1. Top Side, nice black PCB, nice caps.
2. Back side - removed heatsink from the TPA3255, they have used some thermal compound / paste between the two.
It's completely dry and crusty... but this isn't the major thing....
The heatsink is anodized all around, no masking on contact surfaces....
The milling marks on the HS, the surface finish on the contact surfaces....
And it gets worse: the other side of these anodized heatsink is brought into contact with the anodized interior of the extruded aluminum case.
To top it all off, the thermal strategy appears to be: conduct heat downward into the case and rely on natural convection from the exterior.
3. So to sum it up more technically A80 thermal path dealing with main TPA3255:
TPA Case --> thermal paste (unknown brand / type) --> anodized heatsink (Al) --> Anodized case bottom --> free convection
4. I've tried to improve a bit this mess...
a. Sanded heatsink, both contact surfaces, cleaned.
b. Applied new TIM between TPA and heatsink, I had MX-6 on hand.
c. I was out of sanding paper and will - didn't sand the inside of the case.
d. Applied 0.5 mm thick PCM sheet between heatsink and bottom of case (still anodized).
e. 3d printed higher feets, stock were about 8mm high, printed 12mm high feets.
5. Not a big improvement over stock, measured 3 degC diff, I hope that improving contact between case bottom and heatsink will improve further.
Given the A80's popularity on this forum, I have serious doubts AIYIMA will acknowledge or address these problems. But I would very much like to hear their feedback and explanation.
@AIYIMA
Very disappointed with this unit. I purchased it in early March following Amir's review.
I'm not an audiophile - I use it connected to my PC, mostly listening to Spotify. Nothing demanding.
The Problem:
From day one, I've been experiencing thermal shutdowns. Music stops playing randomly. The unit is always extremely hot to touch - too hot to comfortably leave my hand on for more than a few seconds. This is unacceptable for consumer electronics.
I attempted temperature measurements, but the anodized case makes accurate readings difficult.
What I Found Inside:
I decided to open it up to investigate. Oh boy, it's a f*****g disaster. Thermally, it's pure stupidity and negligence. I've honestly stocked how a company mass manufacturing audio products, using a chip known to run hot, putting such thermally bad design to market.
Anyway I let you judge....
1. Top Side, nice black PCB, nice caps.
2. Back side - removed heatsink from the TPA3255, they have used some thermal compound / paste between the two.
It's completely dry and crusty... but this isn't the major thing....
The heatsink is anodized all around, no masking on contact surfaces....
The milling marks on the HS, the surface finish on the contact surfaces....
And it gets worse: the other side of these anodized heatsink is brought into contact with the anodized interior of the extruded aluminum case.
To top it all off, the thermal strategy appears to be: conduct heat downward into the case and rely on natural convection from the exterior.
3. So to sum it up more technically A80 thermal path dealing with main TPA3255:
TPA Case --> thermal paste (unknown brand / type) --> anodized heatsink (Al) --> Anodized case bottom --> free convection
4. I've tried to improve a bit this mess...
a. Sanded heatsink, both contact surfaces, cleaned.
b. Applied new TIM between TPA and heatsink, I had MX-6 on hand.
c. I was out of sanding paper and will - didn't sand the inside of the case.
d. Applied 0.5 mm thick PCM sheet between heatsink and bottom of case (still anodized).
e. 3d printed higher feets, stock were about 8mm high, printed 12mm high feets.
5. Not a big improvement over stock, measured 3 degC diff, I hope that improving contact between case bottom and heatsink will improve further.
Given the A80's popularity on this forum, I have serious doubts AIYIMA will acknowledge or address these problems. But I would very much like to hear their feedback and explanation.
@AIYIMA
Last edited:
Casimir101
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Hi Eddim,
You're absolutely right, and I hope you passed this on to Aiyima.
I replaced the thermal paste just like you did; it was completely useless. Dried out and not working at all. I applied the good old Thermaltake T8, and the temperatures dropped significantly.
I can wholeheartedly recommend another tip: buy something like this on Amazon; it only costs €12 and cools down to about 23-25 degrees Celsius even at the slowest speed. You can run it at full blast for hours, and it won't shut off!
The result looks something like this.
EddiM
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- Joined
- Mar 16, 2025
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@Casimir101 I was thinking about such solution, I don't like the looks, nor the fact that in order listen to music at very moderate volumes I need to run a fan - just seems strange concept wise.... At the end if a fan is needed - it should be integrated into the unit by MFG.
After buying this amp - I have to add some salt to this honeypot...
It is a nice device - sound is clear, no clicks, no noise... but... If you need something to make a nice background for resting - it could disappoint you:
1. So much regarded VU-meter - in reality turned out to be a gimmick which works only at high volume. I would say - very high.
2. Device is advertised as Bluetooth 5.1... I know, I know - professionals do not use bad things. I'm not professional - I'm looking for convenience and "AAC, SBC, aptX, aptX-LL, APTX-HD" looks pretty damn good for house listening. The truth - it doesn't work. BT works only as 16bit/44100Hz. To be honest, it wouldn't be a big deal if... IF NOT...
Windows successfully recognizes it as DVD quality capable device (16bit/48kHz). And amp simply stops audio output after 3-4 minutes of playing with such connection. There is a trick like power on amp after your PC was started... but here is the point - it might be inexpensive device - but not so cheap to have such poor BT input implementation.
3. Screen... from four functions it has only two really necessary (input selector and bass/treble).
So, the summary: the amp is good - and it would be better if AIYIMA do pay less attention to fancy things but better implements what is really required - like modern BT, desktop app for control... this is what I feel after few days of ownership.
Obviously, it might be that it was a bad luck - and I've got a bad sample of this good amp - but it was as it was described.
---
One of the readers mentioned Loxjie A30.
And here are my questions to Amir (and other people who has working experience with both amps/chips):
1. Heat - what device looks better - cooler?
2. A30 is older - and still looking pretty decent. Their difference is the difference between TPA3255 and MA12070 - which one would author prefer and why?
3. What do you think about bare amp boards based on good chips? Like https://www.amazon.co.uk/DollaTek-B...255-Speaker/dp/B0CPP26LNM/257-0612662-3496317
I'm sorry if these questions were already answered.
It is a nice device - sound is clear, no clicks, no noise... but... If you need something to make a nice background for resting - it could disappoint you:
1. So much regarded VU-meter - in reality turned out to be a gimmick which works only at high volume. I would say - very high.
2. Device is advertised as Bluetooth 5.1... I know, I know - professionals do not use bad things. I'm not professional - I'm looking for convenience and "AAC, SBC, aptX, aptX-LL, APTX-HD" looks pretty damn good for house listening. The truth - it doesn't work. BT works only as 16bit/44100Hz. To be honest, it wouldn't be a big deal if... IF NOT...
Windows successfully recognizes it as DVD quality capable device (16bit/48kHz). And amp simply stops audio output after 3-4 minutes of playing with such connection. There is a trick like power on amp after your PC was started... but here is the point - it might be inexpensive device - but not so cheap to have such poor BT input implementation.
3. Screen... from four functions it has only two really necessary (input selector and bass/treble).
So, the summary: the amp is good - and it would be better if AIYIMA do pay less attention to fancy things but better implements what is really required - like modern BT, desktop app for control... this is what I feel after few days of ownership.
Obviously, it might be that it was a bad luck - and I've got a bad sample of this good amp - but it was as it was described.
---
One of the readers mentioned Loxjie A30.
And here are my questions to Amir (and other people who has working experience with both amps/chips):
1. Heat - what device looks better - cooler?
2. A30 is older - and still looking pretty decent. Their difference is the difference between TPA3255 and MA12070 - which one would author prefer and why?
3. What do you think about bare amp boards based on good chips? Like https://www.amazon.co.uk/DollaTek-B...255-Speaker/dp/B0CPP26LNM/257-0612662-3496317
I'm sorry if these questions were already answered.
Re the VU-Meter: Curious to understand what you mean about it only working at high volume? Haven't noticed any issues with it myself at low and medium volumes, although as expected it's only operating on the quieter end of the meter unless I crank the volume up.
Re Bluetooth: I'm streaming from my Google Pixel 8 to the A80 now, and it's 48khz, 24-bits, on AptX HD. Unsure why that doesn't work for you.
Re Bluetooth: I'm streaming from my Google Pixel 8 to the A80 now, and it's 48khz, 24-bits, on AptX HD. Unsure why that doesn't work for you.
1. Best of all it observable with spectrogram - if volume is below 50% - spectrogram stays completely "silent" - not a single "jump". And the actual sound at this moment is very loud - too loud for comfortable listening in the room.
2. This is very simple: I don't have Google Pixel
More seriously - I mentioned that I wanted to have it connected to Windows. Yes, Windows is very stupid about BT usage. However, MS improved it Win 11 (a little bit, as it gives DVD quality over BT link) - and AIYIMA themself gave "drivers" for Windows installations expecting A80 working fine with WindowsIt's not really Aiyima's fault if Microsoft Windows has a bad bluetooth stack, though? Like, you'd have that problem with any bluetooth audio device on the market.
Maybe try enabling "BT LE" mode on Windows and see if that gives you 24-bit support?
support.microsoft.com
Maybe try enabling "BT LE" mode on Windows and see if that gives you 24-bit support?
Check if a Windows 11 device supports Bluetooth Low Energy Audio - Microsoft Support
How to determine if a Windows 11 device supports Bluetooth Low Energy Audio.
support.microsoft.com
Ah, I thought you meant the VU Meter, since that's what you first described.
If I swap to the spectrogram, I see what you mean -- at 20% volume or lower, it doesn't react on mine. But that's rather quiet -- I typically listen around 30%, in a small quiet room. Odd that you find this experience at 49% volume! Is your input source really quiet? (like a turntable)
If you can, turn up the input source -- if it's your windows pc, max out the volume there.
It seems Aiyima made some changes to A80 based on user feedback. This is from their Facebook announcement:
Upgrade Highlights
Large digital display added: main volume, treble & bass, mute, and mode switch all clear at a glance
New option to disable standby mode (default off at startup)
Dual VU meters added, with other VU pointers adjusted for greater accuracy
Remote control now includes treble & bass adjustment buttons
RST Bluetooth reset port added on the back panel (press and hold for 2 seconds to reset)
Accessory Upgrade
Type A/C to C cable upgraded to USB 3.0 version to reduce USB lag issues
Upgrade Highlights
Type A/C to C cable upgraded to USB 3.0 version to reduce USB lag issues
I can confirm that the 12v trigger on my WiiM Ultra does not work with a Douk D1, but there is an easy work around. I am pretty sure the issue is the same with the A80 and other common Class D amps with 12v triggers.
The A80 and Douk D1 sockets accept stereo TRS 3.5mm plugs, the WiiM Ultra outputs to a mono TR 3.5mm plug (Wiim Pros use a 2.5mm Mono Plug).
UPDATED:
A stereo 3.5 to 3.5 cable between the two fits but does not work.
A mono 3.5 to 3.5 cable does not work.
A stereo 3.5mm cable, plugged one end into the A80/D1 and the other into a Stereo to Mono 3.5mm adapter which then plugs into the Wiim WORKS!
Or, one of the common headphone cables with 2 3.5mm mono plugs at the cups and a 3.5mm stereo at the source (like Hifiman Cables) Works!
Last edited:
It seems Aiyima made some changes to A80 based on user feedback. This is from their Facebook announcement:
Upgrade Highlights
Large digital display added: main volume, treble & bass, mute, and mode switch all clear at a glance
New option to disable standby mode (default off at startup)
Dual VU meters added, with other VU pointers adjusted for greater accuracy
Remote control now includes treble & bass adjustment buttons
RST Bluetooth reset port added on the back panel (press and hold for 2 seconds to reset)
Accessory Upgrade
Type A/C to C cable upgraded to USB 3.0 version to reduce USB lag issues
I bought my unit in October, but looks like I received this version -- I have the dual VU meters, BT RST port, etc.
Maybe this explains my confusion with @DmSh 's comments about the VU meters not working well?
From Amiir's comment above, this updated model had improvements made to the VU accuracy, so perhaps that's why I was saying "they seem fine to me, even at low volume"?
ChivoEgg
New Member
I just got mine a just a week ago, I ordered the upgraded version but they sent me the original one. That's for a good start.
After some back and forth, the seller offered me a partial refund and an upgrade with a board that I'm waiting for because it comes all the way from China.
My initial impression is that this is a good compact amp, I'm testing it with Sony SS CS5 speakers and I find the sound very acceptable for near to mid distance listening and not too loud levels where I could distinguish any distortion or artifacts (tested up to 75-80%). I find the DAC it's doing its work very well.
I haven't had any problems with bluetooth, optical or analog inputs.
But I've been having some trouble with USB connection to my PC. sometimes the sound drops out, and I've been trying to troubleshoot the cause or determine if the unit is somehow faulty. I've tried switching the USB ports in my computer, since it has USB 3.0, 3.1 a and 3.1 b. Not much difference in the lost audio for about a second or two from time to time. I'm suspecting the including cable gets interference, so I'll try later with a USB 3 cable.
I've also tried changing the bitrate and frequencies having no difference getting it up or down it does not improve or eliminate the glitches. I finally settled at 48KHz 32 bits for continuous testing and find that resolution acceptable for listening, monitoring, recording and for DAW use too, it's pretty stable and sounds good enough.
This audio cutout problem only happens when using the USB interface and playing audio either from streaming or files.
When using ASIO in different DAWs and synths it works perfect, and it has very low latency, in fact it's comparable to dedicated external audio interfaces I've used before. The ASIO drivers work and are acceptable despite being kind of old, I think they're from 2022 and no updates I could find.
As many have mentioned before, I feel the A80 overheats quite a bit even at low volumes or idle. When I get the upgraded board and open the unit to install it I'll sand the heatsink and apply good thermal paste as suggested by someone to see if that improves the heat dissipation and lowers the temp. If not I think there'll be no problem as I know these kind of class-D amp chips run hot.
I hope the upgrade they are sending me solves some of this problems and improves the unit overall. I'll supposedly have all the benefits minus the bluetooth reset, which I don't think I'll need. It would have been nice to receive the version 2 upgraded unit from the start as was my original intention, but anyhow, I'll wait until January to receive what they send and will update here on any significant changes.
After some back and forth, the seller offered me a partial refund and an upgrade with a board that I'm waiting for because it comes all the way from China.
My initial impression is that this is a good compact amp, I'm testing it with Sony SS CS5 speakers and I find the sound very acceptable for near to mid distance listening and not too loud levels where I could distinguish any distortion or artifacts (tested up to 75-80%). I find the DAC it's doing its work very well.
I haven't had any problems with bluetooth, optical or analog inputs.
But I've been having some trouble with USB connection to my PC. sometimes the sound drops out, and I've been trying to troubleshoot the cause or determine if the unit is somehow faulty. I've tried switching the USB ports in my computer, since it has USB 3.0, 3.1 a and 3.1 b. Not much difference in the lost audio for about a second or two from time to time. I'm suspecting the including cable gets interference, so I'll try later with a USB 3 cable.
I've also tried changing the bitrate and frequencies having no difference getting it up or down it does not improve or eliminate the glitches. I finally settled at 48KHz 32 bits for continuous testing and find that resolution acceptable for listening, monitoring, recording and for DAW use too, it's pretty stable and sounds good enough.
This audio cutout problem only happens when using the USB interface and playing audio either from streaming or files.
When using ASIO in different DAWs and synths it works perfect, and it has very low latency, in fact it's comparable to dedicated external audio interfaces I've used before. The ASIO drivers work and are acceptable despite being kind of old, I think they're from 2022 and no updates I could find.
As many have mentioned before, I feel the A80 overheats quite a bit even at low volumes or idle. When I get the upgraded board and open the unit to install it I'll sand the heatsink and apply good thermal paste as suggested by someone to see if that improves the heat dissipation and lowers the temp. If not I think there'll be no problem as I know these kind of class-D amp chips run hot.
I hope the upgrade they are sending me solves some of this problems and improves the unit overall. I'll supposedly have all the benefits minus the bluetooth reset, which I don't think I'll need. It would have been nice to receive the version 2 upgraded unit from the start as was my original intention, but anyhow, I'll wait until January to receive what they send and will update here on any significant changes.
Casimir101
Member
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- Nov 1, 2024
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@ChivoEgg, thanks for your impressions. I'll give you a few more tips about the A80.
Important: In Windows, I absolutely recommend "24-bit/96kHz"! I always had problems with 32-bit under Windows (without ASIO drivers). (Sometimes distorted, brief sound dropouts). It doesn't matter whether you use USB 2 or 3; it makes no difference, I've tested it. The bandwidth is high enough even with USB 2.0, and the lag is very low. Since you won't hear any difference, "24-bit 96kHz" is best, and it works ABSOLUTELY without these dropouts. Try it out! It took me months to figure this out.
Important: In Windows, I absolutely recommend "24-bit/96kHz"! I always had problems with 32-bit under Windows (without ASIO drivers). (Sometimes distorted, brief sound dropouts). It doesn't matter whether you use USB 2 or 3; it makes no difference, I've tested it. The bandwidth is high enough even with USB 2.0, and the lag is very low. Since you won't hear any difference, "24-bit 96kHz" is best, and it works ABSOLUTELY without these dropouts. Try it out! It took me months to figure this out.
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