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AIYIMA A07 TPA3255 Review (Amplifier)

Minimonsta

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Hi, guys! How about that bulk PS caps (1000μF 50V in stock)? What's your suggestions for substitutes? Is there any benefits from increased capacitance? Like 2200 or 3000 μF?
 
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Grooved

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Hi, guys! How about that bulk PS caps (1000μF 50V in stock)? What's your suggestions for substitutes? Is there any benefits from increased capacitance? Like 2200 or 3000 μF?
Hi, The 50V ones were certainly on oldest amps, because mine from one year ago came with 63V capacitors
More than capacitance, using 63V capacitors is the first thing to do in case you use a 48V PS.

Regarding capacitance, it's possible but not sure it would change anything here.
 

Minimonsta

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Hi, The 50V ones were certainly on oldest amps, because mine from one year ago came with 63V capacitors
More than capacitance, using 63V capacitors is the first thing to do in case you use a 48V PS.

Regarding capacitance, it's possible but not sure it would change anything here.
Thanks, this was in my mind by default.
But about capacitance I'm not so sure.
For example, an idea of "more capacitance is better" repeated many times in tpa3251 mod thread
 

trungdtmc

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I had tried add 2 more 1000uf63v nichicon at PVDD cap but no different could hear by my ear
 
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Bruce Morgen

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Hi, The 50V ones were certainly on oldest amps, because mine from one year ago came with 63V capacitors
More than capacitance, using 63V capacitors is the first thing to do in case you use a 48V PS.

The two A07s that drive the four ambience/surround speakers in my system are the older ones with 50V Nichicons, which are apparently holding up just fine at 46VDC after a couple of years. I would trust a 50V Nichicon over a generic Chinese 63V cap every time -- but I agree that 63V would be better if Aiyima is sticking with Nichicons or a similarly trustworthy manufacturer.
 

dr_mick51

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The Aiyima A07 is at $71.99 and 10% discount. Total $64.80. Not bad.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJZGT6H/?coliid=I3SW1BP5FT6VEW&colid=1QRBTQJ93B2B4

1666745860329.png
 

lewinr

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Hi all,
I'm using this amp to power 2 speakers for a TV in a remote room and I have a problem where I can use your advice.

The setup: there is a TV in a room with two in-wall speakers. The speaker wires for these speakers run to a cabinet in a remote room. There is also Cat6 cable running from behind the TV to the same cabinet. The TV itself has 3 types of audio-out: headphone, eARC and TOSLINK. The TV is just used for streaming TV and internet radio.

I've connected these speakers to this amp in the closet, and used a simple balun to connect the headphone output from the TV to the line-in RCA connectors on the amp over the cat6 cable.

This actually works well except that when the TV is off there is a strong buzz from the speakers. As soon as I turn the TV on, the buzz disappears. The buzz is worse when using the original power supply that came with the amp (which has no ground), versus using a grounded 48v power supply that I bought separately.

I dont want to keep the TV on all the time, so I either need to eliminate the buzz (and leave the amp on all the time) or turn the amp off when the TV is off.

Probably turning the amp off is a better solution, as it would save power. (Does anybody know how much power this amp draws when there is no audio input?) But I dont see any easy way to do it. I searched for a relay that would turn the power to the amp on/off based on the presence of a headphone level signal, but didnt really find anything. Does anybody know of such a device?

Or does anybody have any advice on how to eliminate the buzz?
I believe the balun is introducing the noise, maybe the cat6 cable runs near to some power cables in the wall. I thought of using either HDMI(eARC) or TOSLINK baluns but worry that if the analog signal on the cat6 has noise then a digital signal would be impossible. Any thoughts on this?

The alternative would be switching to another amp that has auto-sensing shut-off, but the least expensive ones I can find are $120+ which is more than I want to spend for solving this...

thanks for your advice...
Ron
 

Elitzur–Vaidman

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Or does anybody have any advice on how to eliminate the buzz? I believe the balun is introducing the noise, maybe the cat6 cable runs near to some power cables in the wall. I thought of using either HDMI(eARC) or TOSLINK baluns but worry that if the analog signal on the cat6 has noise then a digital signal would be impossible. Any thoughts on this?
If you have a cheap dac that can accept TOSLINK and pass it off to your A07, you should eliminate all problems. There's no appreciable way for EMI noise to impact an optical signal.
 

lewinr

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Thanks for the fast response.

The problem is that I have no way to get that signal to the cabinet in optical form, as there is no way to run an optical cable from the TV to the cabinet where the amp is located. There is only the CAT6 cable. So I would need a "TOSLINK over CAT6" or "HDMI(eARC) over CAT6" balun but I dont know if they will work if the line has too much noise.

And this still requires leaving the amp turned on all the time. That may not be an issue if it has low power consumption when there is no signal, that's why I'm asking if anybody knows...
 

375HP2482

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When the TV is off its headphone jack goes from low ohms to infinity ohms, which means your CAT6 cable then becomes an antenna.

Quick and dirty solution: Plug a 3.5mm splitter into the headphone jack, then connect the two splitter jacks to (1) some (old) earbuds and (2) the CAT6. Then the Headphone Out jack will remain loaded at low ohms when the TV is off. (Maybe put some tape over the earbuds to minimize microphonics injected into the CAT6.)

Should this work you can tidy up things by replacing the earbuds with a 3.5mm stereo balun breakout and some ~50-ohm resistors on the Phoenix connector.
 
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lewinr

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When the TV is off its headphone jack goes from low ohms to infinity ohms, which means your CAT6 cable then becomes an antenna.

Quick and dirty solution: Plug a 3.5mm splitter into the headphone jack, then connect the two splitter jacks to (1) some (old) earbuds and (2) the CAT6. Then the Headphone Out jack will remain loaded at low ohms when the TV is off. (Maybe put some tape over the earbuds to minimize microphonics injected into the CAT6.)

Should this work you can tidy up things by replacing the earbuds with a 3.5mm stereo balun breakout and some ~50-ohm resistors on the Phoenix connector.
THANK YOU! You solved it, this worked. :) And thank you for taking the time to add links.
 

Palladium

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I noticed a weird issue on my A07.

When the 3.5mm aux is used as output to my Aiyima A3001 subwoofer amp (3.5mm TRS to stereo RCA), the sound from the left mains channel will bleed into the right and vice versa.

Anyone also encountered the same problem?
 

Zek

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This is because that 3.5mm output connector is only a pass-thru from the input RCA and is not a real sub output, and when it is connected to the sub, it is connected together in some mix.
 

Palladium

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This is because that 3.5mm output connector is only a pass-thru from the input RCA and is not a real sub output, and when it is connected to the sub, it is connected together in some mix.

The mains crosstalk issue goes away once I use a pair of RCA Y-adapters, so not sure what exactly is going on at the aux circuitry.
 

Grooved

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The mains crosstalk issue goes away once I use a pair of RCA Y-adapters, so not sure what exactly is going on at the aux circuitry.
If you said that it's working with an Y cable, I assume that you tried at first to use a cable that was not Y, so both L and R were linked to a single, is it right?

Anyway, it's an Aux input (even if it's not a real auxiliary input with a switch to select it), it's not written "output" and even less "sub output", so no reason to even think why it's not working in this case.

It's simple, it's linked to the RCA inputs, so left of the 3.5 jack is linked to the L RCA, and the right of the 3.5 jack is linked to the R RCA
3.5 jack or RCA as inputs, that's all
 

Bruce Morgen

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If you said that it's working with an Y cable, I assume that you tried at first to use a cable that was not Y, so both L and R were linked to a single, is it right?

Anyway, it's an Aux input (even if it's not a real auxiliary input with a switch to select it), it's not written "output" and even less "sub output", so no reason to even think why it's not working in this case.

It's simple, it's linked to the RCA inputs, so left of the 3.5 jack is linked to the L RCA, and the right of the 3.5 jack is linked to the R RCA
3.5 jack or RCA as inputs, that's all

Actually, the 3.5mm jack's channels are reversed with respect to the RCA jacks -- an odd A07 flaw (as is the amp's theoretically inadequate thermal management), but not relevant if you're using it to drive an active sub with a proper channel-summing/mixing stage.
 

amanieux

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Hi everyone. I have done most of the mods for the A07 i thought will give me most return.
I am currently using generic 24V 6 amp power supply and am very happy with the sound quality as of now. I hardly have to push the volume to 60% in windows before it gets too loud. A07 volume knob set at max.
Do you feel upgrading the power supply to Meanwell 36v 5 amp going to benefit me ? I mean strictly from a sound quality standpoint ? Bcoz i already have much headroom already on 24v SMPS. I don't want to upgrade if it's just for more headroom.
isn't sound better if you push volume to 90-100% on windows and control volume with a07 knob ?
 

amanieux

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Just received the Fosi Audio TB10D(new version) and Aiyima A07 from Amazon.

My preference is for the Fosi Audio TB10D (p.s., the new version).

how do you tell appart the fosi tb10d new version fron the old version that had very poor reviews ? what changed inside to get better reviews ? thanks
 
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