After 9 Months of Research - Rate My First System (Before I Buy It)!

[Multicore]

What did you end up using to connect the boxes to the WiiM? @56suited

 

[56suited]

What did you end up using to connect the boxes to the WiiM? @56suited

I went digital coax. No problems so far, aside from the refrigerator thing.

I do have a weird, periodic, ever so slight drop of sound using HDMI eArc, and I can't figure that one out, as it is unrelated to the refrigerator issue. I've tried switching between PCM and Auto for digital output audio format, as well as switching HDMI eARC mode between off and auto...but same-same. It is not a huge inconvenience, but I am curious what is causing it. Maybe it's latency streaming through NOW. I haven't paid attention during YouTube or other services.

 

[Multicore]

I went digital coax. No problems so far, aside from the refrigerator thing.

Cool

I do have a weird, periodic, ever so slight drop of sound using HDMI eArc, and I can't figure that one out, as it is unrelated to the refrigerator issue. I've tried switching between PCM and Auto for digital output audio format, as well as switching HDMI eARC mode between off and auto...but same-same. It is not a huge inconvenience, but I am curious what is causing it. Maybe it's latency streaming through NOW. I haven't paid attention during YouTube or other services.

Might be a "feature" of the TV you didn't notice before. Some video devices and apps have dynamic audio processing. Have a poke at all the menus you can find, system set-up and within apps.

 

[56suited]

Cool


Might be a "feature" of the TV you didn't notice before. Some video devices and apps have dynamic audio processing. Have a poke at all the menus you can find, system set-up and within apps.

I am playing with the delay timer (between video and audio) to see if that does anything, otherwise, I've tried everything. More a slight nuisance than anything, but I am still curious what's causing it.

 

[56suited]

Me again, and I just simply don't know where to start with my research. I am looking for a small UPS to stop the (likely unnecessary) fear of the refrigerator compressor damaging my speakers. I say it's likely unnecessary because I don't believe the compressor turning on causes a surge. I think it draws down voltage from the speaker.

I'm learning slowly about UPS on my own, but I am no electrician and every electrician I have called wants to charge me money for advice.

I've narrowed it down to a few devices, but I can't really tell which I should consider.

• Some have actual outlets I can directly plug my KH 120 IIs directly into with their supplied leads, which makes things easy
• Others will likely require some sort of IEC320 C14 adapter, or a power bar that plugs into an IEC320 C14 connection.
• Some of them give me a dB specification for their noise, others don't.

Here they are:

1. V7 UPS 750VA Desktop UK, 750 VA, 450 W, Sine, 632 J, 6 ms, 10 ms
2. Kohler 600-800VA, Single-Phase, Standalone
3. APC Back-UPS BE850G2 - 850 VA, 520 Watts, 8 Output Connectors
4. Kohler 600-1600VA, Single-Phase, Standalone, Transformerless
5. V7 UPS 600VA Desktop UPS with 6 Outlets, Touch LCD (UPS1P600E), 600 VA, 360 W, Sine, 180 V, 240 V, 50/60 Hz

Gah...I am so out of my element here, and looking for advice before I make a purchase I will regret, even if it is only about €120 I will be spending. I'll keep reading online in the meanwhile, and hoping the occasional voltage drop doesn't hurt my babies.

Maybe all I need to do is buy a new mini refrigerator - that sounds like an unlikely solution because eventually I am sure the compressor on that will draw down power as well.

All I want is peace in my life. I've come so far, damnit.

 

[Spkrdctr]

The APC unit looks good. I like that you an replace the battery easily according to the advertisement. No need to buy a whole new unit down the road. It should do everything you want it to and more.

 

[digitalfrost]

To fix this problem, I think it would be best if you got an online (always on) UPS. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterruptible_power_supply#Technologies

If you buy a line-interactive it might very well be that it's not quick enough to catch what's happening and it won't solve the problem. As you probably guessed, the online ones are the most expensive.

Also, the cheaper UPS usually create stepped sinewave and not all devices can deal with that. The online UPS makes a correct sine wave.

Unfortunately noise is an issue, especially with online UPS and it's usually not something that anyone cares about. A lot of datasheets don't even list it.

 

[Multicore]

Me again, and I just simply don't know where to start with my research. I am looking for a small UPS to stop the (likely unnecessary) fear of the refrigerator compressor damaging my speakers. I say it's likely unnecessary because I don't believe the compressor turning on causes a surge. I think it draws down voltage from the speaker.

I'm learning slowly about UPS on my own, but I am no electrician and every electrician I have called wants to charge me money for advice.

I've narrowed it down to a few devices, but I can't really tell which I should consider.

• Some have actual outlets I can directly plug my KH 120 IIs directly into with their supplied leads, which makes things easy
• Others will likely require some sort of IEC320 C14 adapter, or a power bar that plugs into an IEC320 C14 connection.
• Some of them give me a dB specification for their noise, others don't.

Here they are:

1. V7 UPS 750VA Desktop UK, 750 VA, 450 W, Sine, 632 J, 6 ms, 10 ms
2. Kohler 600-800VA, Single-Phase, Standalone
3. APC Back-UPS BE850G2 - 850 VA, 520 Watts, 8 Output Connectors
4. Kohler 600-1600VA, Single-Phase, Standalone, Transformerless
5. V7 UPS 600VA Desktop UPS with 6 Outlets, Touch LCD (UPS1P600E), 600 VA, 360 W, Sine, 180 V, 240 V, 50/60 Hz

Gah...I am so out of my element here, and looking for advice before I make a purchase I will regret, even if it is only about €120 I will be spending. I'll keep reading online in the meanwhile, and hoping the occasional voltage drop doesn't hurt my babies.

Maybe all I need to do is buy a new mini refrigerator - that sounds like an unlikely solution because eventually I am sure the compressor on that will draw down power as well.

All I want is peace in my life. I've come so far, damnit.

Replace or fix the fridge. When you have no control over the leak in the roof then you are forced to use buckets. Otherwise fix it. From an engineering point of view, adding a UPS is adding considerable complexity to the audio system. Do you really want that?

 

[Spkrdctr]

Replace or fix the fridge. When you have no control over the leak in the roof then you are forced to use buckets. Otherwise fix it. From an engineering point of view, adding a UPS is adding considerable complexity to the audio system. Do you really want that?

Considerable complexity? They are just plug and play. I believe the OP was going the cheaper route as it fixes his problem and he can let the fridge go until it dies in many years.

 

[Multicore]

Considerable complexity? They are just plug and play.

That's the user point of view. I said engineering, from which POV adding a UPS is a bodge. The electric supply should not be that bad and iiuc the issues causing the supply instability are all inside OP's property.

I believe the OP was going the cheaper route as it fixes his problem and he can let the fridge go until it dies in many years.

Iirc, OP described it as a mini fridge. Fixing or replacing that may not be less expensive or much different.

 

[56suited]

@Multicore and @Spkrdctr - thanks both. I can go either way, or none at all, because I still don't know if it's just an occasional drop-out of sound, or if there is really risk to my speakers - I may have mentioned it before, but I am pretty sure it is a voltage drop, not a surge.

Also, if I get a new beverage fridge, I can give this other one to my son in his media room (PS5 and TV only)...but then I need to explain why I bought a new one to my wife, whereas surprisingly, I can make a UPS purchase inconspicuous. The problem with the UPS is that I just don't know enough about them to know what to buy, considering all I need is literally a mechanism to regulate voltage (I don't need power supply or battery back-up).

This weekend, I am going to start small and see if a surge-protected power bar is a good enough solution for the speakers (rather than plugging them direct to the wall), and go from there. I don't believe the turntable or WiiM Ultra are impacted (as they require less power).

 

[Multicore]

and see if a surge-protected power bar

If you find a good one we can meet there Monday for a jar.

 

[digitalfrost]

Have a look here:

BOXEM Audio | Arthur 4215/E2 Purifi Amplifier | Owners' Thread

There are other alternatives so as not to spend 84E for a pair of XLR/RCA cables, you understand very well) Yep,there are lots to choose but at honest buys you get what you pay for. I have plenty cheap 4-5 euro RCA plugs who once was gold and now are turning to silver :facepalm: (and that's...

www.audiosciencereview.com

RCA to XLR Cable ("pseudo-balanced") to buy ?

Also note that in the schematic at the end of the above paper Putzeys is making use of the full XLR connector,ie apart from the usual -+G also connects ground with the XLR's case (through the 4th pin on top usually) on both input and output connectors. (TRS usually does that naturally,by it's...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Still like them?

(I would at least thoroughly test them,both how they are wired and with the DMM both end-to-end AND at each end,open )

Edit:They also use the neutrik-rean brand mostly.Rean is made in China (but it's Neutrik's company and under their QC I hope,so no harm to it)

I had no problems so far, but now I bought a new microphone and had a 50hz hum. When touching the audio interface it got better. When touching the microphone it got worse.

Replaced the cordial cable with one that was supplied with an IMG Stageline mic and the hum was gone.