Advice for active triamping

[Eleo]

Hi There! I'm planning to actively triamp my speakers. My current setup is as follows: pc (with Rew, RePhase and Eq Apo > Topping D50s > ZeroZone Irs 2092 monoblocks https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32904122947.html > Wharfedale Linton Heritage https://www.wharfedale.co.uk/linton-heritage/ (sensitivity 88-90 db, crossover 600 and 2400 Hz). Since the Lintons are three-way speakers, I'm wondering if I could remove the passive crossover and use the ZeroZones for the woofers and separate amps for midrange and tweeters. The crossover may be implemented in the digital domain with RePhase and Eq. Apo. A six-channel interface would substitute the Dac.
I have several doubts. First: is the entire endeavor worth it? After all, with Room correction I already have a quite flat response - see the attached image from Rew. Can removing the passive crossover increase the dynamic range and reduce the distortion? What about "semi-active" bi-amping: that is, disconnecting only the woofers from the passive crossover and using only two amps: one for woofers directly connected to drivers and one for mid-highs, connected to passive crossover. In this case, I could use a high-pass filter at, say 200 Hz.
Second question: which interface? Something from Motu or Focusrite?
Third: which amps for midrange and tweeters? I assume that I will be able to regulate the different sensitivities modifying the gain of the different channels. For midrange I've thought to amps like Topping PA5, Sabaj A8, SMSL DA 9, Aiyima A 07 or 08.
For tweeters: Topping PA3s, Sabaj A 10, SMSL A100, Aiyma A04.
Thank you in advance and sorry for my english.
Leonardo

 

[DVDdoug]

I have several doubts. First: is the entire endeavor worth it?

Technically, probably not... Except for the fun-factor!

What about "semi-active" bi-amping: that is, disconnecting only the woofers from the passive crossover and using only two amps: one for woofers directly connected to drivers and one for mid-highs, connected to passive crossover. In this case, I could use a high-pass filter at, say 200 Hz.

That's pretty-much how a "standard" home theater is set-up with regular 2 or 3-way main/surround speakers and an active subwoofer. (Typically crossed-over at 80Hz). My home theater is similar except I have (homemade) passive subs powered with an extra amplifier that I already had. And of course, crossover (and bass management) is built-into the receiver.

I would recommend capacitors in series with the midrange & tweeter just in case something "goes wrong". You don't want bass fed-into those drivers.

I can't make any specific hardware recommendations.

I do have a tri-amped system in my van. But, it has separate tweeters, mids (actually "full range"), and woofers and I would have needed to build a crossover anyway. The 1st iteration was "traditional" with an active crossover and 3 stereo amps and it had occasional reliability issues. Now, I have an all-in-one 5-channel amplifier with built-in adjustable filters.

 

[dualazmak]

Hello,

My multichannel multi-driver multi-way multi-amplifier (actually 5-way 10-channel) stereo project would be somewhat of your reference, I hope.
You would please find my latest system configuration here on my project thread.

 

[freemansteve]

The big issue with three separate drivers being driven by 3 amps (each side) is getting the frequency response of all three to "join up" in a smooth manner, so I'm pretty sure you'll need to front each power amp with DSPs, and then tailor the net responses to the room.... It can be done, say with 2 miniDSP units I would think, each with Dirac Live to automate it.

 

[gene_stl]

Definitely worth it. Tri-amping>Bi-amping> one amplifier Most naysayers have never tried it. Don't forget to install speaker protection before you set up. It is very important. Fuses (fast blow usually 250 or 500 ma for most home set ups ) AND series capacitors which if correctly chosen won't affect the sound.
You will get more transparency and also more control over the sound and room interactions (by shelving control). Go through dualazmak's wonderful thread to see how to do it right.

 

[Zinda]

Hi There! I'm planning to actively triamp my speakers. My current setup is as follows: pc (with Rew, RePhase and Eq Apo > Topping D50s > ZeroZone Irs 2092 monoblocks https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32904122947.html > Wharfedale Linton Heritage https://www.wharfedale.co.uk/linton-heritage/ (sensitivity 88-90 db, crossover 600 and 2400 Hz). Since the Lintons are three-way speakers, I'm wondering if I could remove the passive crossover and use the ZeroZones for the woofers and separate amps for midrange and tweeters. The crossover may be implemented in the digital domain with RePhase and Eq. Apo. A six-channel interface would substitute the Dac.
I have several doubts. First: is the entire endeavor worth it? After all, with Room correction I already have a quite flat response - see the attached image from Rew. Can removing the passive crossover increase the dynamic range and reduce the distortion? What about "semi-active" bi-amping: that is, disconnecting only the woofers from the passive crossover and using only two amps: one for woofers directly connected to drivers and one for mid-highs, connected to passive crossover. In this case, I could use a high-pass filter at, say 200 Hz.
Second question: which interface? Something from Motu or Focusrite?
Third: which amps for midrange and tweeters? I assume that I will be able to regulate the different sensitivities modifying the gain of the different channels. For midrange I've thought to amps like Topping PA5, Sabaj A8, SMSL DA 9, Aiyima A 07 or 08.
For tweeters: Topping PA3s, Sabaj A 10, SMSL A100, Aiyma A04.
Thank you in advance and sorry for my english.
Leonardo

With a response plot like fhat why would you start messing with those speakers. If you want to get better sound, I'd look up stream and see if I could get what I'm looking for. I realize that a flat response doesn't mean the best sounding speakers since it doesn't show anything but what a test plots for it's results (I'm not a fan of any computer based sweep tests simply because they are not consistent with each other and they use digital tones which are not really representing music, pink noise is a much better way to see where you're at). There's many other aspects that relate to speakers overall sound and image they produce that a test result can't show.

I would definitely stay away from any digital DSP stuff, I have tried many with poor results. I won't elaborate. Those speakers should be able to reproduce terrific sounds if they are fed a good strong signal. DSP will strip away all realism from music.

I have found huge high watt amps with high damping factors over 500 for 20Hz to 10KHz can make a huge difference in how a speaker sounds. Running a big amp at ⅒th power will result in virtually no distortion, while delivering plenty of power, the dynamics improve dramatically. Especially affecting the fullness of the lower frequencies and detals in mid and high frequencies.

There's a number of ways to go but you'll never know unless all options are tested. It's impossible to say which one will bring the dramatic changes you're looking for. Incorperating all possible upgrades would be best but still not a guarantee that you'll find audio nirvana with those speakers. Common sense told me that I would not change the one thing that looks to be working properly. Try another set of well known good sounding speakers first (something regarded as having the qualities you think are lacking with yours) just to see if there is any significant changes either way.

The investment of time and money changing your speakers might not even be the answer. I would start with a good amp since it's inevitable that an amp upgrade will happen. I have found huge improvements to speakers comes from big amps (400w per side with 500 or more damping covering the entire spectrum), when changing out to 75 watt per channel amps the magic was lost! Your speakers can only sound as good as the source meaning you'll never know how good your current speakers could sound, it takes a good chain of pieces to get where you can then accurately judge speakers!

I'm only offering advice on what I have experienced, you can look into my advice or you can continue to spin your wheels thinking you can achieve perfect sound only to find you end up at the same place trying to force things to compensate for deficiencies of other pieces. Don't fix what is not broken, replace the weakest link 1 at a time. Buy used quality analog gear and you can't miss.