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ADAM Audio D3V specs price ?

What problem would switching to the D3V fix?

Before you find an answer, don't spend the money.
Actually It won't solve anything, I need bass response around 30Hz at 0dB, not -6 or -12. But lp-unf isn't cheap(for me), there are thoughts to sell lp-unf and make a more optimized system to have a fuller sound with sub bass. In my listening genres, this is a big part of music that I just don't hear. So I thinking about mr3 + sub or anythink else combo in this budget (300$), including used ones. I often look at a speaker's ability to reproduce sub frequencies, but in fact only a few can do that($4000+), and when you have a subwoofer it's not so important, and you can look at the rest of the frequency range.
 
Sounds like a 2.1 would be the best option for you indeed, and hitting 30 Hz flat would still be a challenge even then... the Edifier T5 still falls slightly short, for example. Even an 8" sub would be quite the upgrade in bass level handling, mind you.

Ideally you'll want a sub that can fit in between the main speakers, but that's even more of a challenge.

As you noticed, when you want to play deep + loud, things get big and expensive really quickly.
 
Actually It won't solve anything, I need bass response around 30Hz at 0dB, not -6 or -12. But lp-unf isn't cheap(for me), there are thoughts to sell lp-unf and make a more optimized system to have a fuller sound with sub bass. In my listening genres, this is a big part of music that I just don't hear. So I thinking about mr3 + sub or anythink else combo in this budget (300$), including used ones. I often look at a speaker's ability to reproduce sub frequencies, but in fact only a few can do that($4000+), and when you have a subwoofer it's not so important, and you can look at the rest of the frequency range.

tell example music which should have 30 hz on youtube and the time it is ? . in bass i notice feeling is very important to think bass is much. so you can try a butt shaker. I have a reckhorn BS200i use EQ and lowpass on DSP and a cheap class D amp for it. I use it with the d3v not because i have beste sound d3v on desktop at 40 cm distance and 30 cm high stand now.

With the rubber feet it do most bass vibration in range of 50-90 hz. when put arms on desktop this let think the brain, bass is much more. when hear much bass music clarity mid and highs can not good hear. you can buy PA speaker, but no with DSP. PA speaker are not build to go very low. even 10-12 inch speaker are list from 50 hz. - 3db. dsp PA speaker have a DSP hipass, but you can use non DSP PA and an EQ. I see that working move a plastic bag back and forward with 25 hz sine. but it was a large room guess 80 qm and in 1 meter test. If you have no room larger as 25 qm 30 hz make lots of bad noise and room modes. the solution with butt shaker under or in chair is a great solution that make neighbours happy too.
 
tell example music which should have 30 hz on youtube and the time it is ? . in bass i notice feeling is very important to think bass is much. so you can try a butt shaker. I have a reckhorn BS200i use EQ and lowpass on DSP and a cheap class D amp for it. I use it with the d3v not because i have beste sound d3v on desktop at 40 cm distance and 30 cm high stand now.

With the rubber feet it do most bass vibration in range of 50-90 hz. when put arms on desktop this let think the brain, bass is much more. when hear much bass music clarity mid and highs can not good hear. you can buy PA speaker, but no with DSP. PA speaker are not build to go very low. even 10-12 inch speaker are list from 50 hz. - 3db. dsp PA speaker have a DSP hipass, but you can use non DSP PA and an EQ. I see that working move a plastic bag back and forward with 25 hz sine. but it was a large room guess 80 qm and in 1 meter test. If you have no room larger as 25 qm 30 hz make lots of bad noise and room modes. the solution with butt shaker under or in chair is a great solution that make neighbours happy too.
No problem:

About the bass shaker is interesting, but I think it's not what I'm looking for, I want to get those 30Hz at low volume.

I know that Subpac makes wearable haptic systems.
 
Sounds like a 2.1 would be the best option for you indeed, and hitting 30 Hz flat would still be a challenge even then... the Edifier T5 still falls slightly short, for example. Even an 8" sub would be quite the upgrade in bass level handling, mind you.

Ideally you'll want a sub that can fit in between the main speakers, but that's even more of a challenge.

As you noticed, when you want to play deep + loud, things get big and expensive really quickly.
Not between the speakers, I have an optimal spot closer to the corner at the opposite end of the room, this makes things difficult as I have to pull wires or pay extra for wireless solutions.
 
No problem:

About the bass shaker is interesting, but I think it's not what I'm looking for, I want to get those 30Hz at low volume.

I know that Subpac makes wearable haptic systems.

with the DSP you can set the bass shaker volume at any level you like. so you can get it at low volume. you can also use the compressor so the bass shaker change not much in level when you make louder. I use the t.racks mini dsp. it have 4 outputs and each output have a compressor. so it is possible to use 1 subwoofer and the bass shaker. i see 30 hz high level in spectrum analyzer I hear the song with the d3v. there can nothing low bass hear, no bad noise when make louder and no desktop vibration feel. the passive woofers can see a little moving but not so much as with the kickdrum. I guess the DSP inside the d3v is a highpass at 45 hz. for the d3v need modify the song that this bass sound is at 45 hz . this can hear really good and feel. if the LP UNF have not such a high pass filter it can maybe produce more of 30 hz as the d3v .

how much qm have your room. you can see also on nearfeald, the bass is reduced depend ~ 18 qm room. here are diffrent speakers and compare in my room. you can see the d3v give bass ~ to a 5,5 inch theoretic speaker.

the yamaha hs5 can go low seem have no DSP high pass . kali lp6 have a DSP highpass. fun fact, i maybe days later test the hs5 and focal alpha how they play this song and how vibration on deskop is. both have no highpass
 
I purchased a pair of these recently in my search for smaller, good enough, desktop speakers. Been using them for a few days and I really like how they sound, however, I wished they'd go deeper. As such, I can either accept them for how they are, or compromise (and complexity) aspect by adding a sub. I was thinking of maybe adding the T10s, but this would involve a seperate audio interface, 4x the number of audio cables (1x USB vs 4x XLR), another box on the ground, an audio interface (with associated cables) etc. Wish these speakers had a sub out :D
 
I purchased a pair of these recently in my search for smaller, good enough, desktop speakers. Been using them for a few days and I really like how they sound, however, I wished they'd go deeper. As such, I can either accept them for how they are, or compromise (and complexity) aspect by adding a sub. I was thinking of maybe adding the T10s, but this would involve a seperate audio interface, 4x the number of audio cables (1x USB vs 4x XLR), another box on the ground, an audio interface (with associated cables) etc. Wish these speakers had a sub out :D

You can use Virtual Cable software or voicemeeter (free) to simultaneous playback on 2 dacs without delay. For example: dv3 connected via type c, sub connected to pc mb output.
 
You can use Virtual Cable software or voicemeeter (free) to simultaneous playback on 2 dacs without delay. For example: dv3 connected via type c, sub connected to pc mb output.
Very interesting, thanks! I'll consider it.

Immediate downside I can think of is, apart from software complexity, volume control can then only be done through software, as the dial on the D3V would not affect the sub.
 
I purchased a pair of these recently in my search for smaller, good enough, desktop speakers. Been using them for a few days and I really like how they sound, however, I wished they'd go deeper. As such, I can either accept them for how they are, or compromise (and complexity) aspect by adding a sub. I was thinking of maybe adding the T10s, but this would involve a seperate audio interface, 4x the number of audio cables (1x USB vs 4x XLR), another box on the ground, an audio interface (with associated cables) etc. Wish these speakers had a sub out :D

near all active studio subwoofers have 2 inputs and 2 outputs . and on this you can choose crossover and connect the d3v. see in the shop picture the backside of the sub. then you can see. adapter cable from XLR to TRS is cheap and work perfect
 
near all active studio subwoofers have 2 inputs and 2 outputs . and on this you can choose crossover and connect the d3v. see in the shop picture the backside of the sub. then you can see. adapter cable from XLR to TRS is cheap and work perfect
Yeah that's exactly the scenario I meant, you get:
PC > 1x USB > audio interface/DAC > 2x TRS/XLR > sub > 2x TRS/XLR > speakers
So in total 4 extra cables (excluding power to sub and audio interface), a box on the ground and a box on the desk.

Instead of:
PC > 1x USB > speakers

My current audio interface also has external power, which has actually solved some issues I used to have vs my previous USB fed audio interface. Which is another cable+brick. Not complaining, but my hope was to keep it small and simple compared to my old setup, so that's my conundrum ^^
 
Have any of you experienced annoying levels of hiss from these speakers? I just started using them and both speakers will hiss all the time when they're powered. Both drivers hiss, but the tweeters more loudly. The hiss can easily be heard from at least 4 meters away and it's louder than e.g. PC fans. It's like white noise. Sometimes there's also a quiet, high-pitched whine. The hiss persists even when volume is zero. If I disconnect audio (USB), the hiss pauses for 5 seconds and then it continues even with no audio signal. I have also tried shutting the nearby PC and router off and it doesn't help.

This can't be normal, right? I haven't experienced this with cheap PC speakers.
 
Have any of you experienced annoying levels of hiss from these speakers? I just started using them and both speakers will hiss all the time when they're powered. Both drivers hiss, but the tweeters more loudly. The hiss can easily be heard from at least 4 meters away and it's louder than e.g. PC fans. It's like white noise. Sometimes there's also a quiet, high-pitched whine. The hiss persists even when volume is zero. If I disconnect audio (USB), the hiss pauses for 5 seconds and then it continues even with no audio signal. I have also tried shutting the nearby PC and router off and it doesn't help.

This can't be normal, right? I haven't experienced this with cheap PC speakers.
the tweeter hiss of my pair can't be heard beyond 40cm
 
Thought I'd drop my "review" of these speakers, now that I've had them for about 1 month.

I got these to replace a pair of Logitech T15s I had on my desk where the passive cable broke (So I was stuck in mono).
I'm not an audiophile, but I do enjoy quality made hardware. My references are a pair of DT 770 Pro X and the Harmon Kardon surround I have in my BMW.

When I first plugged them in, I was absolutely blown away at how fantastic they sounded. The soundstage was really good, crisp highs, and a surprisingly good punchy bass. I believe there's some DSP magic going on in combination with the passive radiators.
For ~300 EUR, they are the perfect compact desktop speaker.

I've experienced zero hiss, and no issues with standby. Only thing that kinda annoys me, is that if you forget to turn them off before shutting down your computer, you'll get a lovely *FLONK* sound from them. Only done that twice now, and hopefully never again.
 
There is a new Firmware available for these btw, it adds the ability to disable auto standby and improves sound at lower volumes.

This has basically fixed my issue of them sounding "half asleep" below a certain threshold.
 
I promised a recording with different power bricks, but I couldn't do it. Today I had time and soldered the wires, which were for the speakers and here is a recording with them fully setup. Flat eq on the back and recorded with Austrian Audio OC18. No comparisons, but it is what it is.
 
I have contacted Adam Audio support regarding the pop and crackle sound when audio is cut on USB mode on Android. They said they are aware of this issue, but they didn't mention whether this will be fixable by firmware.

I suspect the root cause to be the DAC chip being needlessly put into sleep mode.

Otherwise, these are truly amazing speakers for their price and intended usage. Also make sure to update to the latest firmware, they sound waaaay better with it.
 
Hello everyone,
please allow me to ask a perhaps stupid question. Is there any streaming hardware that acts as a USB host and I can connect the D3V directly via USB-C? The volume control should then work via Tidal on my mobile phone, right? I haven't come across any nearfield monitors that have a built-in streaming function. Thanks!
 
Hello everyone,
please allow me to ask a perhaps stupid question. Is there any streaming hardware that acts as a USB host and I can connect the D3V directly via USB-C? The volume control should then work via Tidal on my mobile phone, right? I haven't come across any nearfield monitors that have a built-in streaming function. Thanks!
I use an iPhone 16 with the Adam D3V connected to the USB-C port streaming Spotify. The iPhone recognizes the speakers like a dongle DAC, so you have independent volume controls from your phone and from the volume control on the speakers.
 
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