Problem is he provides wrong information about that, as I pointed out.If I remember correctly he told you how to split subs not that it was a good idea.
Problem is he provides wrong information about that, as I pointed out.
I try to stay away from Youtubers that has this kind of content !To be fair, with that Youtube video thumbnail he put up a reasonable content warning. To me it screamed: don't watch!
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It also puts me off. But a part of being fair is realizing how YouTube's recommendation algorithm works. These days it is next to impossible to build a user base without using such titles and thumbnails. Even down to earth content creators I've been following for years do it these days. Not beacuse they like to shoot themselves making funny faces, but because they have to to stay relevant.To be fair, with that Youtube video thumbnail he put up a reasonable content warning. To me it screamed: don't watch!
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Some thoughts...This is a feature of Denon and Marantz AV receivers.
View attachment 484427
Standard (Default):
“All subwoofers output LFE signals and bass below the crossover frequency of all the speakers.”
Directional:
“All subwoofers output LFE signals. In addition, each subwoofer outputs bass below the crossover frequency of speakers that are placed near them.”
I wasn’t aware that this feature becomes selectable with Dirac ART.
With Dirac Bass Control, the selection of Subwoofer Mode (Standard / Directional) is disabled, so I assumed it would always be inactive.
I agree with your point.Some thoughts...
Properly delivered bass below 60Hz isn't localisable.
Having said that - the distortions, are at higher frequencies eg: 2nd harmonic of 60Hz is at 120Hz which IS localisable
And of course, many subs are being matched with bookshelves/satelites requiring the sub to cover a range reaching up to potentially as high as 200Hz
So if your main speakers (base layer) are full range (reaching down to 60hz and below), and your subs are low distortion, is there any point to setting up a "directional sub" setup?
I think in most case subs are localised due to their THD... (especially given that even high quality subs often have THD specs of 10%+)
In theory. But in practice there are vibrations near the subs and also in "extreme cases" pressure waves that will allow you to locate the sub.Properly delivered bass below 60Hz isn't localisable.
Yes, resonances and other distortions which will commonly show up as harmonics... within the localisable frequency rangeIn theory. But in practice there are vibrations near the subs and also in "extreme cases" pressure waves that will allow you to locate the sub.
That's where I think that very large subwoofers have a huge advantage: An 18" or larger cone has to travel much less compared to a 10-12" to give the same SPL and with more excursion comes more harmonics.Yes, resonances and other distortions which will commonly show up as harmonics... within the localisable frequency range
Swings and roundabouts - higher THD at higher frequencies, lower THD at lower frequencies.... I think that is the general rule of thumb relating to driver size...That's where I think that very large subwoofers have a huge advantage: An 18" or larger cone has to travel much less compared to a 10-12" to give the same SPL and with more excursion comes more harmonics.
the bigger the better for subs, no problem over 60hzSwings and roundabouts - higher THD at higher frequencies, lower THD at lower frequencies.... I think that is the general rule of thumb relating to driver size...
hence a 10" or 8" is better suited to the 150Hz end of the ART spectrum... but may not reach down to 20Hz... a 15" will reach down to 20Hz but may not be suited to over 60Hz... (or whatever it's distortion driven limit should be!)
Perhaps we are entering an era where we might see multi driver subs combining 8" and 15" to best cover both ends of the bass spectrum?
the bigger the better for subs, no problem over 60hz
View attachment 486111
Here is an example of a well regarded 15" sub... (https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/descend-dn15)
It is interesting to note that the THD Minimum is at 40Hz... (3%) and rising substantially to 11% at 125Hz, and close to 13% at 20Hz. - That THD "sweetspot" will move up as the sub driver shrinks, and down as the sub driver expands... so how "good" a specific driver size is, may be related to how much THD you are willing to accept at certain frequencies.
Note that the reviewer considers 10% THD from a sub perfectly acceptable...
However once you are at over 1% THD - chances are the Harmonics will identify the sub location - even though the main signal won't (at non localisable frequencies, below 60Hz)
With issues such as sub localisation, as well as ART, I have a feeling (yeah gut feeling, no science...) - that low THD is going to become a lot more important than it has been the last 20 to 30 years.
The giveaway to a sub's location is almost always going to be resonances and THD.... and that THD is also going to compromise ART performance to some degree.
The ART paradigm shift is only getting started!
That is an interesting thought. Subs with different drivers were previously somewhat difficult to integrate, but now we have ART so that problem could go away. Not a good person to try that as have 6 x 13.8" driversSwings and roundabouts - higher THD at higher frequencies, lower THD at lower frequencies.... I think that is the general rule of thumb relating to driver size...
hence a 10" or 8" is better suited to the 150Hz end of the ART spectrum... but may not reach down to 20Hz... a 15" will reach down to 20Hz but may not be suited to over 60Hz... (or whatever it's distortion driven limit should be!)
Perhaps we are entering an era where we might see multi driver subs combining 8" and 15" to best cover both ends of the bass spectrum?
.Now that's some serious fire-power. Not sure if ART rabbit hole is that deep though. At least in my system it seems that parameter adjustments (like support levels, even grouping to some extent) don't really produce any significant effect. IMO the biggest impact is the shelf/curve. I am not complaining - I actually prefer it this way. More listening, less tweaking.I also want to add that I once bought a Klipsch SW-115 as a second subwoofer in the back of the room. A fantastic subwoofer for the price but it didn't work for me. I never succeeded to integrate it in my set and improve the bass evenness and quality. Despite it's proximity to the back seat it simply couldn't keep up with my 4x 15" DIY front sub. As soon as I cranked up the SPL I could localize it and when I turned it down a bit it went MIA.
Soon after I built dual B&C 21SW152 and with the arrival of my Denon I added dual SBA NERO 21SW1100D and dual Faital Pro 18XL1800. I'm extremely happy with them and and how they melt together with ART.
Also curious how a new 21pt measurement will improve ART. At the moment our house is getting a much needed and significant insulation upgrade that'll be ready in a few weeks so I'm already very happy that the older measurements gives such good results. When all works are done I can finally focus on making a new measurement jig (boom stand replacement) and take a deep dive into the Dirac rabbithole![]()