Does the reset clear all the settings on the A1H or just restart it?
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Active Room Treatment (ART) by Dirac
- Thread starter Flak
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Frank207be
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Just a restart. Clearing the unit is only needed with a firmware gone sideways.
Thanks, I sort of guessed that and I’m not sure why I didn’t comprehend it right away. You could do a full reset on the AVR and then take some measurements, that would be out of the box performance if you don’t tweak anything prior I would think.
I have three ART presets, on one of the _speaker preset_ slots. The other _speaker preset_ slot will only allow me to upload RC, not BC or ART :-/ ... seems like a bug for sure given so many other people have said they can do _six_ ART profiles total. :-(
Yeah, I'd for SURE like to avoid that if possible though
If I could do a full backup, reset, measure, restore backup, that'd be one thing ... but to have to set everything up again - no - I think it would be less effort just to create a zeroed out Audyssey cal and upload that to slot 1.
Frank207be
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Have you selected the right preset on the AVR before starting the Dirac software?
Before, during, after - many restarts of software, computer and receiver during the several hours of troubleshooting and fighting with it :-(
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ART detects these ranges for my subs and I leave them like that and I don't notice any audible artifacts.
Are you sure this is right? Your groups 8-11 are starting support at 20hz and then ending at some arbitrary numbers? What are the speakers in these groups and what is their useful extension at 20hz?
Oh those are individual groups for each of your subs, ok, my bad. Interesting.
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I use per speaker target curves that have +10 dB bass rise. Flat 20-70Hz then a slope downwards to 320Hz which happens to be the transition region for my room. This slope downwards curve sounds great in my room. Dialogue is clear, and voices maintain their natural character.Today I've been tinkering with target curves. Dirac uses 20-60Hz flat and then a steady decrease up higher. But with stronger curves I feel that a flat 20-90Hz boost and then a slope downwards to 150Hz feels more energetic in the midbass. I don't want to overdo this as voices need to maintain their natural character
Anyone here experimenting with target curves and midbass?
ART Front Left Target Curve and Predicted Response.
ART Center Target Curve and Predicted Response
ART Front Right, Target Curve and Predicted Response
ART LCR Actual Response
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Did you make these, or find them somewhere? Id like to try them, if possible.
How many subs are you using?
My weak sub is capped at 109 Hz by default, my LFE is curtained at 121 Hz by default as well. I leave them both, sounds great.
Always something to learn from the various sub setups. I thought that low end would be the cap and subs could support at least up to 150hz. Also interesting that LFE would be auto cut off at 121hz. Not sure why would that be. Perhaps some filters on the subs?
I am doing roll-off even more aggressively in the LFE/sub curve, but keep the sub support to 20-150hz range. When subs work as support, they adhere to the range of the channel they support, not LFE/sub channel.
You can manually move both the curtain and the upper support limit ART sets after the measurements. The filters show it will try to put the speakers you do it with to use but Dirac wouldn’t limit them from the word go if it wasn’t the best choice, in my opinion anyway. My cat turned one of my subs up and at the time I didn’t know what numbers they were set to on the knobs that go to 11
I made my better sub my LFE and added a little headroom to both since it was available. I got my mic centered perfectly and did a nice loud measurement. I’m loving the default ART decisions except I made my stereo subs. I tried full correction, a 1KHz curtain, but I’m back to my 250 Hz curtain and happy. The I guess timing advantage of more correction has a plus in the detail a bit but the “Dolby C” sound is unmistakeable to me. Atmos seems better now with all speakers helping in a kumbaya groove. Bass bangs and everything sounds right so far, I’ve been at it loud since noon. Hated to have to remeasure but it was easy, this is such an easy to figure out UI. Intuitive, Apple like to me anyway. I see some folks don’t feel the same, I’m not a tinkerer though. I’m a good enough set it and rock and roll kind of guy.We all know by now that the support levels are adjustable. Just wondering what made ART cut off your Klipsch at 121hz. I had some Klipsch in the past and they could easily to beyond 120hz. Might not be very relevant if your support is overall good in that range, but just curious.You can manually move both the curtain and the upper support limit ART sets after the measurements. The filters show it will try to put the speakers you do it with to use but Dirac wouldn’t limit them from the word go if it wasn’t the best choice, in my opinion anyway. My cat turned one of my subs up and at the time I didn’t know what numbers they were set to on the knobs that go to 11
I do get a very tight support in ART range, like +/- 0.5 db. 120-150hz range might not seem that important, but it really is. It can congest the rest of the range quite significantly if left not properly checked.
Once ART hands it over to Dirac Live, it is a different story. Would like to see a better handover in the future.
ART cuts my LFE to be clear, it limits my weak sub as well by default. My good sub is almost flat in that region up to 150Hz, my weak sub hits 0db on the Dirac graph at 109Hz. I’m guessing since LFE only goes to 120Hz and my subs aren’t strong above 120 it just shuts down the use of brainpower for something unnecessary. Just my guess.
I was saying the levels are adjustable when Dirac by default “limits” them, I didn’t mean the obvious. So my LFE is curtained at 121 but I can change it to 150 and ART makes a pretty but unnecessary graph. My weak sub is capped by default to 109Hz on the high end (+10db at 20Hz though) where it hits 0 but it outputs at -10 to 150Hz. I can adjust it and ART will use it at the lower level and the graphs look good but the sound isn’t as good. Subjective, I’m not a scientist. That’s what I meant by you can still adjust, override would have been a better word.
I use per speaker groups including subs. I need to play with sub placement a little more because current placement is suboptimal in relation to my MLP and moving the MLP is non negotiable as long as I remain in this house.
Subs frequency response in LFE Mode(+Room Gain), is 18-200Hz but subs 1(Front left corner), 2 (Front wall, 3/4 of the room), and 3 (Front right corner) roll off fast on the high frequency at their current location. Only sub 4 (Rear right corner in its current position extends higher that 150Hz). Unfortunately placement is limited in my room. Subs 1,2, and 3 will extend close to or higher that 150Hz if I rotate them to have the driver face the wall but I need to do something to cover the back of the subs. So for now I have to live with ART capping the high frequency as shown on the screenshot.
I use an FSL of 70Hz for my bed layer speakers, and 100Hz for my tops.
I have 4 subs (All RSL Speedwoofer 10S MKII) and use Magic Beans software to help me create custom target curves specifically for my speakers in my room at the MLP.
Did you try sideways? I get the best response from both my subs if I face the wall which is studs over block and I think that extra gap matters maybe cause my subs are long and facing out is way out from the block for SBIR. Aesthetics suck though and one sticks way out in a walkway and both show their butts which I don’t like. I catty-cornered the small one and went sideways with the big long one, they measure almost as good as butt out.
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