-
WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!
AB vintage amp ?
- Thread starter Cocoloco
- Start date
I understand that electrolytic capacitors breakdown and fail, but if the amp sounds good as the OP states, why would you replace the caps? Are there any safety concerns or could it cause damage to another component?
Hi
I have (from my late father, an audiophile before the word existed) a Yamaha CA-2010 amplifier. still working after, yes!, 40+ year... It is driving my HifiMan HE6 with aplomb... Class AB and can be be switched to pure Class A ... Capacitors have not yet been replaced, sounds great driving directly the HE6 in Class A where the Max output voltage is 30 watts in Class @ 8 ohms. IT should be much less with the 50 Ohms the HE6 represent. No issue so far ... Would like to find a place in the USA that can clean/renew this classic amp at a reasonable price.
I have (from my late father, an audiophile before the word existed) a Yamaha CA-2010 amplifier. still working after, yes!, 40+ year... It is driving my HifiMan HE6 with aplomb... Class AB and can be be switched to pure Class A ... Capacitors have not yet been replaced, sounds great driving directly the HE6 in Class A where the Max output voltage is 30 watts in Class @ 8 ohms. IT should be much less with the 50 Ohms the HE6 represent. No issue so far ... Would like to find a place in the USA that can clean/renew this classic amp at a reasonable price.
They degrade slowly, with less dynamic performance as a result. Leaking caps can produce a mess, and they can fatally damage the speakers.
Replacing these big caps is not rocket science. Make sure you get good modern caps and avoid boutique brands. Since modern caps are physically smaller you can usually fit somewhat more potent modern ones in the same physical space, for slightly more peak power.
Replacing these big caps is not rocket science. Make sure you get good modern caps and avoid boutique brands. Since modern caps are physically smaller you can usually fit somewhat more potent modern ones in the same physical space, for slightly more peak power.
There's a detailed description of a restoration of your amp here: http://marantzhallo-fi.blogspot.com/2016/01/yamaha-ca-1010-ca-2010-amplifier.html
I'm sure someone on here could advise if all the changes were necessary and/or desired.
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2018
- Messages
- 2,726
- Likes
- 7,986
The overwhelming majority of quality-brand vintage amplifiers from the 1970s to the early 1990s are going to be Class AB designs. Some Class D amps do exist from the old days, and there are some higher-end amps that are exclusively Class A. But Class AB was by far the dominant topology for full-size component integrated and power amps (and as far as I know receivers).
As for power, I am not a big believer in power conditioners when it comes to allegedly producing subtle improvements in the sound. However, I do believe various types of power treatment can help in certain situations. For example, a lot of municipal power grids - or even just your home electrical wiring, if you have certain "dirty" appliances - produce some DC in the AC line. That can cause components with large transformers, especially toroidals, to hum. The sound doesn't come out of the speakers - it's a physical/mechanical vibration that comes directly out of the amp itself, and often it cycles. A DC blocker plugged between the amp and the wall socket can easily eliminate this problem, or at least reduce it to the point where you have to put your ear right up against the amp to hear it.
Similarly, sometimes a voltage regulator can help extend the life of components if your local AC power grid has an unusual amount of voltage fluctuation.
As for power, I am not a big believer in power conditioners when it comes to allegedly producing subtle improvements in the sound. However, I do believe various types of power treatment can help in certain situations. For example, a lot of municipal power grids - or even just your home electrical wiring, if you have certain "dirty" appliances - produce some DC in the AC line. That can cause components with large transformers, especially toroidals, to hum. The sound doesn't come out of the speakers - it's a physical/mechanical vibration that comes directly out of the amp itself, and often it cycles. A DC blocker plugged between the amp and the wall socket can easily eliminate this problem, or at least reduce it to the point where you have to put your ear right up against the amp to hear it.
Similarly, sometimes a voltage regulator can help extend the life of components if your local AC power grid has an unusual amount of voltage fluctuation.
Similar threads
