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A reasonable (AB class) replacement for Yamaha A-S801 integrated amp

DHT 845

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Exactly, so I started from the foundations and borrowed the above mentioned LAB12 Gordian power analyser & conditioner to check and measure the quality of electrical network in my flat. BTW. the distributor in Germany offers a free one week test, and in Poland I had to pay a deposit and they will charge me, if I don't return it next week. The device has been tested here (in Polish), yet without any measurements, but on the other hand whole lot of information about the internals (and photos).

Lab12Gordian-04w.jpg


This is, what I found out yesterday and today (it came on Friday):

1) The voltage is rock solid, stays about 240V, with fluctuations between 237V and 241V. No problems here.
2) The frequency sine wave is almost perfect at 50Hz, varying between 49,9XX Hz and 50,0XX Hz. OK!
3) The DC voltage is almost non existent: 0,000V - 0,00X V. :)

My conclusion is, correct me if I'm wrong, the quality of my electrical network is rather good, and I cannot complain.

The second part, however, doesn't look so nice:
4) Input EMI is between 20 and 25 mV - I don't know, if its much or not, but since it's mV, I assume there is no problem here, isn't it?
5) Voltage THD stays about 2,50% - again, I have no experience with such measurements, so I cannot draw a conclusion (?).
6) Current THD is really high, it is about 70,00% (everything is on and playing at low volume levels) at the moment. When I turn on my audio devices it is growing, with my A-S801 it rises by 20-30%, and the Jay's Audio CD Transport another 20%, while my little Topping is clean.

Is it possible, that my audio devices are cross contaminating each other? Would a decent power strip with sockets connected in pararell (star-wired) be enough (no filtering voodoo)?

View attachment 171791
Nice power cord :)
 

JW001

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Hey op, had you figured out what the cause of your problem is yet?

I’m writing, and in fact I actually registered to this forum, cause I’m particulary in the same water as you are, dealing with the Yamaha A-S801 and thinking about an upgrade.

Coincidence is I also live in Poland, but in the counter corner of the country (close to the fabulous falowiec, I’m pretty sure you’ll know what is it and where;) To ye outlanders, biggest and longest residential building in europe and a monument of socialism.

It’s a biggest and densest in terms of population district in the area. Electricity is EXTREMELY poluted and overloaded here, especially in the summertime heat just like now and also in the wintertime. I mean, it’s a national problem, but here it’s really huge due to densely overpopulated residenial.

This results in distortion coming from the amp, even though, in act of desperation I even invested in some discounted power conditioner to filter the mains. I think it helped a little bit in taking grain out of sound and in fact boosted some dynamics, but it’s a borderline perceivable case. Sound still gets a lot of glare itchy, brassy harshness especially in the upper corners of the frequency response and looses the dynamics. I’m not getting the problem in the bass response that you OP described though. It’s stil there but not that controlled and tight. Definitely having these similar problems in exact times of day you mention. Deep night and early morning it sounds the best, sometimes perfect. The crapiest period is past 5 pm to let sey 11 pm – the time I really need it sounds the best, after work to relax.

It’s been +30 celsius degrees for more than a week now, nights are really hot too, network is vastly overloaded due to sun heat and people using their air conditioning everywhere and as a matter of fact I can’t listen to music from my yammie for all this time, no matter what time of day it is, without itching ears. It just sounds like an some overbright, harsh onboard tv speaker, not 800 bucks amp.

Once I was an audio rookie (I still really am, but not that fresh though) I thought that it’s a nature of the amp or it’s ess sabre chip onboard dac I’m using, you know that yamaha brightness and leaniness some of the folks are talking about in the internet. I also thought it may be caused by the speakers. I’ve come a long way, tried a lot of them with A-S801, new, vintage, neutral, warm, bright and went through a lot of setups, even went through some fancy audiovoodoo phase like cables, usb cards with galvanic isolation and lpsu, even fidelizer (which actually helps sometimes but in different matter – fyi my source is Windows PC server).

Discovered it makes a lot of difference to unplug a router, tv and pc monitor from the line and a lot of this glare dissapears when they are unplugged but some still stays. Keeping it simple, just the source, pc server and amp plugged improves things and removes some harshness and sibilance. That’s why I don’t go the streaming route, just an offline, direct usb connection from pc to the dac. I would also mention, that I’ve got the separate lines for all the rooms in my flat and have one room just for audio. Still dealing with the issue though. Was having it in the different flats too, no matter of electricity architecure present in them.

There were a lot of times I wanted to get rid of the amp because I thought it is it’s sound signature or it is broken. But later discovered that there are times it actually sounds pretty nice, clean, balanced, with clean high frequencies, clean hihats, without sibilance vocals and stuff, just by itself, mostly during nighttime even with some mediocre quality youtube streamed mp3s.

I know the amp has decent measurements and can sound really nice. I like the sound signature im hearing in these peaks of high performance.

But my take is: why can’t it sound like that all the time? Isn’t it it has something to do with the amp design and transformer used in it? I’ve been dealing with such issues with some early 80s technics amp I bought for literally a penny some years ago on local craiglist, but I guess electricity infrastructure and audio gear engineering was different then when the amp was created, and the network wasn’t so overloaded like it is nowadays, so I guess it’s just the old fashion of designing amps. There were not so much noise in the grids. I would expect something better from a modern amp designed in the modern reality of electricity.

I didn’t bought A-S801 to listen to it just at nights to make my neighbours nuts.

I think I’m getting tired of it. A lot of people in the internet and even in this thread treat it like some sort of perfect holy grail endgame amp but I think it really is a average amp that does a lame job with noise filtering and actually can’t believe, according to some answers here, that there are no modern, better performers and better designs in the market worth to buy, at least just in this noise filtering field. Am I wrong?

Can’t believe even this higher tier better designed yammies with toroid transformers won’t deal better with the issue and will sound exactly the same for the whole time and all this is just marketing scam and paying more for nothing or just for the things that don’t have any influence on sound.

The fact that I can’t listen to the music I love delivered with the best performance possible anytime I would like to is just annoying. It’s like listening to the fm radio and waiting for the time when the weather is good. Should be thing of the past. It is definitely bottlenecking a beautiful sounding speakers I possess - it is totally frustrating. Not worth the money I put in it.

Isn’t it that the A-S801 decent sound and performance reviews present here and there were measured mostly in the perfect, laboratory conditions and the reality average conditions in average power circuit is let say a little different and a lot of these reviews just forget that how the gear is dealing with the overloaded, polluted mains in the average flats in the big cities is also important and results on the overall performance and thereby it’s sound in borderline moments. Could it be skipped in these tests?

As I mentioned I’m a audio amateur, don’t have the scientific gear, neither knowledge to measure the distortion coming from my grid (but would love to check it even just out of curiosity). I just listen to music, been a musician for 15 years and I know many times my system definitely doesn’t sound like it was meant to be and all the people that heard it say the same, even the complete, low end audio casuals.

Don’t want to sound like an ignorant. What other factor can cause this distortion if not the power grid electrical noise and it’s fluctuations? Every fact suggest it, also comparing with the OP experience.

How to finally enjoy the music without any interruption? Better amp and dac won’t change anything?
Did you try other amplifiers beside AS801 in your apartment? If the building is made of concrete you have zero sound absorption and a lot of reflections, which impacts negatively the perception of SQ. That has nothing to do with the quality of the amplifier itself.
 

CaptainBeyond

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That's distorsion and it is hardly produced by bad power. IMO power quality is not the issue unless it gets to absurdly low values and that can be easily measured at the soket.
Some additional info: yamaha got 2 prong socket and all the electric outlets in the flat aren't grounded, they are just zeroed. It's been likte this in a different flat when I had the same problems with A-S801. Maybe that's got something to do with this situation? Sometimes, when I touch metallic part of the pc case or amp case I feel a small sting of electricity.

Anyways can you explain me how the gound loop could appear in a circuit between just these two devices plugged to the same outlet, I mean pc server and the amp and how can I check it's a ground loop and thereby get rid of it?

Best wishes
 

CaptainBeyond

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Did you try other amplifiers beside AS801 in your apartment? If the building is made of concrete you have zero sound absorption and a lot of reflections, which impacts negatively the perception of SQ. That has nothing to do with the quality of the amplifier itself.
Before A-S801 had just vintage technics I mentioned and things were similar in the same times of a day, but worse. I also experienced these problems with the same amps in different flat but on this very same residential. Wall outlets weren't fully grounded but zeroed and also encountered little stings of electricity from time to time when I touched metal parts of the gear I have. Currently got no funds for renting different amp and none of my friends or relatives got the amp I could borrow, so the only reference is this vintage 80s technics solidstate amp I had, technics sa-202 if i remember correctly.
 

CaptainBeyond

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Any Voltmeter which can mesure 250 V will do. See what's happening if it falls how much it falls under specification.
When you hear it (sound output) try to mesure it with smartphone app and capture a screenshot and post it here for people with more expertise than you and me. And check what outlet is giving.
Which kind smartphone do you use, is it a Android or iOS device? To tell you which app to use and with what settings.
Try using integrated DAC in Yamaha with SPDIF (you can even go with raute TV HDMI in to TV SPDIF out) input to exclude ground loop and other issues related to PC (PSU EMI, dirty USB power...).
Small update below:
I'm using android based phone

Tried to plug in tv via spdif but each time it is alistenable, distorted horribly bright and sounds just like the tv very low end onboard speaker itself just going directly through the amp to the speakers. Any sort of eq didn't help. It still sounded like crap. Also tried to plug in the spdif via motherboard from pc, the windows realtek needed to be installed to make the connection happen and dac didn't bypassed it like it takes the line signal via usb route. It was simply just realtek sound and it's quality coming via amp to speakers. I think this dac operates only the usb signal and via spdif just passing through what it gets.
^ more details: I tried couple times toslink optical connection between my old pc (Z170 motheadboard with onboard soundcard and realtek) to yamaha dac with the results mentioned above. Basically couldn't bypass the realtek onboard driver when plugged the spdif. When tried to plugging it in while bypassing the realtek in various ways, for example deinstalling the realtek driver completely, system could not detect the toslink connection and didn't see the Yamaha dac. So there was no way to plug the optical to motherboard to get the signal withouth realtek and motherboard soundcard forcing their sound, or at least I didn't dig that deep to find one. Couldn't find the solution to output just the pure signal any other way than usb, which was set automatically and I didn't have to set anything up. Just decided to save my time and stick to the usb as I was sure that I'm using the dac, not the cheap pc onboard sound, and the system sounded good that way most of the time besides the issues I described earlier in this thread.

This year I changed the pc for a completely new hardware, my specs are now (Win 10 os) Asus Z690 TUF, i9 12900k, 64gb DDR4 Kingston Fury. I never installed any audio drivers since day 1 and booting the os as I didn't want them to correlate in any way with the external yamaha dac. For getting sound just outputted the bare line signal via usb like I did on previous pc.

Out of curiosity while reading your suggestions took another chance and tried the toslink cable once again this evening. This time system found the toslink connection and installed the "digital audio spdif" connection. To my amazement, when played some music it sounded way, way different than at my last try with the old pc. In fact, really, really good. I mean, all the problems with the glare, harshness, sharpness and thinness dissappeared. Compared to the usb connection, sound is full, warmer and smooth via toslink, yet detailed.

I think that problem I previously describet, I mean with the sound degradation, harshness and dry sound from time to time I previously explained in this thread is gone, but will monitor it more in the nearest future at critical time and circumstances I though have the impact on it to be sure for 100%. I think so because now the internet router is not interferring with the sound at all, doesn't matter if it's running and plugged to the pc or just running the different power line in the apartment for wifi, so that's a certain progress as I had to unplug it completely for not getting issues with harshness.

Via Toslink Sound seems to be a little bit coloured, warm and bass boomy at the times, compared to the usb connection which, with it suspected flaws, appears more natural nonetheless.
My concern is, even though I don't have realtek installed, aren't the windows mixer and onboard motherboard soundcard having some impact on the toslink optical signal somehow this way?

In the sounds panel, the sound device is automatically named like this:
1661468519823.png


There is basically even no device name, while the usb connection automatically shows here as the "Yamaha dac" etc. Also, can't change the playback sample rate and latency mode in the Steinberg Yamaha dac driver which operates the sound through the usb connection, the driver looks like the amp is not plugged in, just like when I was turning it off via usb connection:
1661468873164.png

However, chaning the sample rate here makes sonical change in the sound quality and sounds definitely like upsampling:
1661468994010.png


The amp's dac display diode are not showing what sample rate the dac is outputting, no matter what sample rate I'm setting.
There is no light at any of the pcm and dsd indicators like it was when I was playing sound via usb.

What I did is disabling the windows mixer enhancements:
1661469093655.png


And I think the sq improved more towards naturalness known from the usb connection.

In fact the sound quality and details are (and were) still very similar while playing music through toslink compared to the usb connection, but not that bright and harsh. Maybe some details are not that much emphasized, but it's hard to say.
Sq is also not degrading now, no matter what and how many tasks I'm doing on pc when playing sound at the same time, like it did via usb.

I'm playing music in Jriver by the device which name is displayed in the sound panel (with wasapi) chosen in exclusive mode, here are detailed settings:
1661469381557.png


I'm setting the same upsample rate in the Jriver dsp as it is set in the windows device properties, for example doing upsampling 44khz 16bit to 192khz 24bit.
I think it sounds nice but somehow different than the usb connection. Not sure, putting aside the harsh flaws I mentioned, which one had better sound signature Can't decide as I still didnt do much critical listening. Via optical route sound is fuller but warmer, and usb signal seemed to be more natural and sounding like in real life but had it flaws. Why it is like this? Shouldn't it all sound the same via the same dac? Or maybe signal is processed by windows mixer, pc onboard card?
Maybe there are also some psychoacoustic aspects involved, as I'm not used to the toslink connection sound.

Anyway, my question is, am I doing it right like it should be and completely bypassing windows mixer, motherboard soundcard and dac, and getting the yamaha dac process the signal, thereby am I getting 100% from it and the best sound quality I can get from my current audio sysem?
Or the Yamaha dac is bypassed and acting more like a transmitter of a signal already processed by the win mixer, motherboard dac, soundcard (lower tier sq compared to the yamaha dac I suppose) etc? How to check it?

If the second statement is true, what else can I do to just ouput the pure signal to dac like it is happening via usb, without any processing, windows mixer etc?
Why the yamaha dac is not showing what sample rate is being played and why the yamaha dac driver installed on my pc is inactive when I plug the amp's dac via toslink, and can't set there the sample rate, latency mode etc. ?

Best wishes
 

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ZolaIII

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Well if something really changed with switching to SPDIF/Toslink then you probably did have a ground loop (and still have it when you don't use optical connection). Put ASIO driver to max allowed sample and mode to safe and not low latency when you use it trogh USB input. Relax and enjoy the music. DAC in Yamaha will decode as feed trough SPDIF/Toslink up to PCM 192000 Hz, JRiver will keep it as original if specifically not instructed otherwise (under DSP and audio format settings). There is nothing to show on Yamaha ASIO USB driver when you don't use it and you don't use it when you use SPDIF/Toslink.

A-S801 has led indicators on front panel to show what it's reproducing regarding sample rate.
 
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CaptainBeyond

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Returning after three months if there are (or will be in the future) some folks here that are curious if and if so, then how I resolved the problem with Yamaha A-S801 sibilance I had, here’s what did a trick for me. Now after trying different things and configurations in my PC based system everything sounds smooth without any sibilance at all.

First of all what helped me - I switched from USB out to SPDIF Optical as people suggested in this thread. It gave me some level of improvement and everything was listenable equally ok, no matter what time of the day it was – in opposite how it was before – only during night time.

But the sound was still harsh at the top end. As I mentioned previously here in this thead, It wasn’t just exaggerated ‘esss’ of some people’s speaking manner but shrill, harsh and metallic high notes, not only in dialogues and vocals but also cymbals splash etc. sounding just unnatural and distorted. Still disturbing and taking fun out of listening.

Adding pc Equalizer APO parametric eq and using the parametric eq in Jriver is what brang next improvemenet but just masked the problem somehow which still was present and could be heard here and there. And it was really difficult to eq it. In some cases it was present no matter how. Equalizer gave me also the flexibility to skip the eq in the amp, which I found pretty poor designed. Helped me increase the dynamics level which was pretty flat itself in the amp’s eq. While exclusively using pc equalizer, bypassing the amp’s eq in the pure direct modes also slightly increases the sound quality to my ear, gives broader soundstage and better instrument separation.

Figured out that keeping windows enhancements in win 10 device settings of a dac on all the time, even when playing music in wasapi mode in JRiver gives some improvement as well and lowers the sibilance. Don’t know how it works, but it works for me. And actually sound quality seems to be overall better this way, more let say molten, natural, detailed and separated. Don’t exactly understand why some audiophiles whine about it.

Also having the exact same sample rate in win device settings as in the output format in Jriver gives me some level of improvement. If I have let say 48/16 set in device manager and 44/16 set in jriver output as default, or the opposite, sibilance gets worse. But when they are set equally the same – sound is less harsh.

But the problem persisted still at this point.

Now crème de la crème: what brang me the biggest improvement and took the sibilance away completely and once for all and also significantly improved the overall sound quality: to avoid ground loops in a common sense I had all the system components plugged into same surge protector plugged into the same wall socket. This gives pc, amp with dac, internet router, pc monitor and tv. As I had two sockets around my system and since I started using optical instead of usb I decided to play around and plugged just amp & dac to the one socket and all the rest of the hardware into another one. And voila – sibilance is gone.

I don’t have technical knowledge to explain it – if it was some ground loop, the devices electronically interfered with each other or so. Still this two socket lines in my home aren’t galvanically separated. Remembering that in previous configuration, while still using USB, plugging out the router completely out of power line always helped with the sibilance problem to some dose so this was some clue for me. But now harsh sound is gone completely. Also heard massive improvement of sound quality. Soundstage is much broader, sound is more dynamic, open, natural smooth and there more details can be heard. Background is completely dark. Worth to mention that at this point the trick with windows enhancement and sample rates still matters to some level and brings it’s improvements.

Now the only sibilance I hear is I guess on some of the records itself, but it’s way, way less disturbing and different to a problem I had before and also very easy to EQ.

Have an impression that the sound spectrum is now in place and before was a bit shifted and maybe that’s why treble was exposed too forcefully. Maybe that’s the case in OP’s problem with lacking bass as well.

Still kind of surprised that the 1000$ amp lets this kind of interference happen in such conditions I described which I guess are pretty common in many houses. Would like to remind that all the devices were not connected to each other electronically as I used optical, so they had to interfere via the power line itself. Checked it with couple other surge protectors and even power conditioner, still same sibilance result. I never experienced such with a 100$ pc speaker/subwoofer combo ;) would be really cool if someone here could explain this.

As an audio noob came a long way and invested a lot of time to get out from Yamaha what it has best to show. I think it was worth it considering the sound quality I achieved and the things I learned along, but I find it still surprising business-wise that Yamaha don’t include many of them in the manual (which itself is pretty laconic), considering it’s an entry-level, consumer amp which is a common choice of people without audio gear experience. Wonder how many people returned it due to lack of knowledge thinking it just sounds like sheet (as I used to think) and how this impacts it’s sales.

Anyway hope that my long post will help some people and save their time. Wish I could find something like this in the internet couple months ago:)

In the end, out of curiosity and in further expanding the audio knowledge I’m joining the OP question:

Which amps or separates would bring the significant improvement in sound quality over the Yamaha A-S801? Is it really like this that Luxman or Mcintosh would sound exactly the same like A-S801 and they are just made out of components of better quality (but) which don’t impact their sound? Honestly it’s really hard to believe :D

Greetings to everyone reading this
 

dshreter

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Returning after three months if there are (or will be in the future) some folks here that are curious if and if so, then how I resolved the problem with Yamaha A-S801 sibilance I had, here’s what did a trick for me. Now after trying different things and configurations in my PC based system everything sounds smooth without any sibilance at all.

First of all what helped me - I switched from USB out to SPDIF Optical as people suggested in this thread. It gave me some level of improvement and everything was listenable equally ok, no matter what time of the day it was – in opposite how it was before – only during night time.

But the sound was still harsh at the top end. As I mentioned previously here in this thead, It wasn’t just exaggerated ‘esss’ of some people’s speaking manner but shrill, harsh and metallic high notes, not only in dialogues and vocals but also cymbals splash etc. sounding just unnatural and distorted. Still disturbing and taking fun out of listening.

Adding pc Equalizer APO parametric eq and using the parametric eq in Jriver is what brang next improvemenet but just masked the problem somehow which still was present and could be heard here and there. And it was really difficult to eq it. In some cases it was present no matter how. Equalizer gave me also the flexibility to skip the eq in the amp, which I found pretty poor designed. Helped me increase the dynamics level which was pretty flat itself in the amp’s eq. While exclusively using pc equalizer, bypassing the amp’s eq in the pure direct modes also slightly increases the sound quality to my ear, gives broader soundstage and better instrument separation.

Figured out that keeping windows enhancements in win 10 device settings of a dac on all the time, even when playing music in wasapi mode in JRiver gives some improvement as well and lowers the sibilance. Don’t know how it works, but it works for me. And actually sound quality seems to be overall better this way, more let say molten, natural, detailed and separated. Don’t exactly understand why some audiophiles whine about it.

Also having the exact same sample rate in win device settings as in the output format in Jriver gives me some level of improvement. If I have let say 48/16 set in device manager and 44/16 set in jriver output as default, or the opposite, sibilance gets worse. But when they are set equally the same – sound is less harsh.

But the problem persisted still at this point.

Now crème de la crème: what brang me the biggest improvement and took the sibilance away completely and once for all and also significantly improved the overall sound quality: to avoid ground loops in a common sense I had all the system components plugged into same surge protector plugged into the same wall socket. This gives pc, amp with dac, internet router, pc monitor and tv. As I had two sockets around my system and since I started using optical instead of usb I decided to play around and plugged just amp & dac to the one socket and all the rest of the hardware into another one. And voila – sibilance is gone.

I don’t have technical knowledge to explain it – if it was some ground loop, the devices electronically interfered with each other or so. Still this two socket lines in my home aren’t galvanically separated. Remembering that in previous configuration, while still using USB, plugging out the router completely out of power line always helped with the sibilance problem to some dose so this was some clue for me. But now harsh sound is gone completely. Also heard massive improvement of sound quality. Soundstage is much broader, sound is more dynamic, open, natural smooth and there more details can be heard. Background is completely dark. Worth to mention that at this point the trick with windows enhancement and sample rates still matters to some level and brings it’s improvements.

Now the only sibilance I hear is I guess on some of the records itself, but it’s way, way less disturbing and different to a problem I had before and also very easy to EQ.

Have an impression that the sound spectrum is now in place and before was a bit shifted and maybe that’s why treble was exposed too forcefully. Maybe that’s the case in OP’s problem with lacking bass as well.

Still kind of surprised that the 1000$ amp lets this kind of interference happen in such conditions I described which I guess are pretty common in many houses. Would like to remind that all the devices were not connected to each other electronically as I used optical, so they had to interfere via the power line itself. Checked it with couple other surge protectors and even power conditioner, still same sibilance result. I never experienced such with a 100$ pc speaker/subwoofer combo ;) would be really cool if someone here could explain this.

As an audio noob came a long way and invested a lot of time to get out from Yamaha what it has best to show. I think it was worth it considering the sound quality I achieved and the things I learned along, but I find it still surprising business-wise that Yamaha don’t include many of them in the manual (which itself is pretty laconic), considering it’s an entry-level, consumer amp which is a common choice of people without audio gear experience. Wonder how many people returned it due to lack of knowledge thinking it just sounds like sheet (as I used to think) and how this impacts it’s sales.

Anyway hope that my long post will help some people and save their time. Wish I could find something like this in the internet couple months ago:)

In the end, out of curiosity and in further expanding the audio knowledge I’m joining the OP question:

Which amps or separates would bring the significant improvement in sound quality over the Yamaha A-S801? Is it really like this that Luxman or Mcintosh would sound exactly the same like A-S801 and they are just made out of components of better quality (but) which don’t impact their sound? Honestly it’s really hard to believe :D

Greetings to everyone reading this
That’s quite the messy path to sort that out, but I’m glad it eventually got sorted!

I would only suggest adding a measurement mic to your setup so you can put measurements to what you are hearing and correlate what you see in the measurements to what you prefer. Especially if adjusting EQ across multiple components you need some sort of reference you can go back to.

Do you have a hypothesis for what the sibilance actually is? If it’s prominent it should be easy to see in measurements as well. I’m really curious what adjusting the circuit plugs (grounding?) could have done in relation.
 

Waxx

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I did not read the whole tread, but out of what the OP says it looks like the powergrid is instable where he lives. I had similar issues and used an online UPS (the type that always drain from a battery) to solve it. It needs to be able to give 4x the power capacity that your system draws to make it work right for this purpose, but it works as a buffer that make sure the amp gets the voltage and current without limitations and in a perfect form.
 

Bernard23

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I've owned the 1000, 2000, 1100, 2100, 501, 801 and RN604. What "he was writing about" was that the 1100 and associated products are not comparable to the others whatsoever. The gulf in class is huge.
I came here for that comparison. In what way is there a gulf in class, as in circuit topology, components etc?
 

TheBatsEar

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I came here for that comparison. In what way is there a gulf in class, as in circuit topology, components etc?
Let me funnel you to this thread:

Sometimes pictures are worth more than words. :)
 
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Let me funnel you to this thread:

Sometimes pictures are worth more than words. :)

Yamaha A-S801 amp HUMMING problem...HELP !!! I am at my wits end with this problem...


My Yamaha A-S801 amp has a serious HUM/Feedback issue. When turning the volume up above 4, an increasingly loud HUM occurs which sounds like feedback such as from a guitar amp. Also, there is significant static/crackling during vinyl playback which does not occur with the same LPs played on another hi-fi system (not in the home). This seems to occur only with the phono stage, an Apple Ipod connected via usb to the amp sounds fine, just as it did with previous Onkyo receiver.


The issue did not occur with my previous hi-fi system: Onkyo TX-8260 with Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Evo. But - the problem did occur with the A-S801 connected to the ProJect TT with Ortofon red mm cart... Is it the Yamaha toroidal transformer causing this? Too power hungry?? Help me solve this please!!


Gear:
Yamaha A-S801 amp / Dual CS618Q TT w/ Ortofon Blue mm cart / KEF Q100 speakers / Klipsch RP 500M speakers.
Building: 1890s row house (yes, wiring is suspect inside walls but inaccessible [as tenant]). Location: Massachusetts, USA


Remedies attempted:
Brought A-S801 back to dealer, hooked it up to in-house turntable and speakers - hum / crackling did not reoccur -- and sounded GORGEOUS connected to Klipsch Heresy IV speakers!! :-(
Showed the tech at the shop photos of all connections (copper wire between amp and speakers, Dual TT cables to amp (grounded connection).
Bought new power strip/surge suppressor - no change.
Bought an Emotiva CMX2+ (DC offset strip), did not help - no change.
Moved speakers away from amp/TT - no change.
Moved entire system across room, different power socket - no change.
 
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