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A.C. Wire info in testing or facts and snake oil?

Please don't do any stupid experiments with power cables, they are dangerous and can end badly.

If you are looking for high-quality cable material for your power cables, then I recommend LAPP ÖLFLEX® ROBUST 215C (shielded).

Lapp is one of the most reputable manufacturers, this cable is approved and has TPE as a dielectric, which is significantly better than PVC. Depending on what you are wiring with it, 3G1.0mm², 3G1.5mm² or 3G2.5mm². The 3G is important because that is the only approved one.

If you have devices that only have a 2-pin connection, i.e. are not grounded under any circumstances, then use 2x1.0mm², 2x1.5mm² or 2x2.5mm² without G.
The plug for the socket still needs to be grounded, however, because the shielding is connected to it.

Alternatively, there is the LAPP ÖLFLEX® ROBUST 210 without shielding, the rest is the same (including the one with the G).

The Robust 210/215C series is also very thin.
The meter should be between €3 and €10, no more. For small quantities, eBay, discounters such as Conrad/Völkner and electrical engineering dealers (including local ones) are a good source.

Incidentally, the LAPP ÖLFLEX® ROBUST 210 2x1.5mm², 2x2.5mm², 4x1mm², 4x1.5mm² or 4x2.5mm² is very suitable as a speaker cable.
I agree never mess with AC wiring. I do my own electrical wiring at home and work so I understand what you’re saying. I know when am out of my league when you have to switch out breakers in panels. I do understand most electrical issues. I only do minor maintenance repairs on electrical and if I wire something it’s has to be up to code so I research it. I don’t mess with 220, 440, 600 volts. 120 volts is my limit. Thanks for the reminder and the advice. Sometimes we need it.
 
As mentioned earlier it isn't the wire gauge, though there are certain gauge used for load and length, but the insulation. I believe UL 62 for standard rating is 600 VAC for junior standard 300 VAC.
 
My thoughts:
a] an AC power cord or cable needs to be safety certified for that purpose. (like UL)
b] a braided shield can reduce interference, but it's seldom a problem in residential systems.
c] Silver plated solid copper is great above 100 megahertz. (but of no benefit at low frequencies)
d] yes, Silver is more conductive than Copper, but only if the two wires have exactly the same cross=section area and length.
so if the Copper wire as 7% greater cross=section area or 7% less length, the Copper is better!
 
Why would you need a shielded power cable in a non industrial environment? The power entering your home has traveled through tens of miles/kilometers of unshielded wire, shielding the last meter or two will do nothing.

In a home as long as the insulation has a voltage rating of 300V it doesn't matter the type of insulation. TPE has one advantage in that it's more flexible than than PVC. The other physical characteristics of TPE really don't come into play. TPE is appropriate in an industrial environment where chemical resistance, number of flex cycles, bend radius, etc are legitimate design concerns.
I already thought something like this would happen, but with your post I don't even know where to start.

Let's start with PVC.
- Vinyl chloride is proven to be carcinogenic (especially testicular cancer, liver cancer and brain tumors), mutagenic and can lead to disruption of the endocrine (hormone) system in humans.
- Non-biodegradable
- Toxic to the environment, animals and humans, PVC is one of the plastics that is harmful to health and the environment in every phase of its life cycle - from production to disposal.
- PVC causes copper to oxidize more quickly.
- Significantly poorer dielectric than other plastics.
- Significantly poorer mechanical properties than other plastics.
- Thicker and heavier cables with the same insulation voltage.
- Important point, it is super cheap, both material and manufacturing, that's why it is used, all other properties are inferior.
A thick bundle of PVC cables behind an audio cabinet or rack is particularly ideal, where heat builds up and these cables can evaporate well.

TPE and PP
- Better protection of copper against oxidation than PVC (keywords copper ions, oxidation, hydrocarbon).
- TPE and PP insulation in cables is significantly stiffer than PVC, but can be processed thinner due to the better insulation and mechanical resilience.
- TPE and PP are a significantly better dielectric than PVC, right after PTFE and PE.
- TPE and PP are significantly less hazardous to health and are recyclable.

And since you mentioned it, due to the requirements, test conditions and bending cycles, you get oxygen-free copper of the highest specification as a bonus, but you probably already know that.

Shielding
Shielding in power cables fulfills several tasks. I have never experienced a correctly connected shield (only connected on the mains side) having a disadvantage in terms of sound.
- Interference in small signal cables (e.g. RCA) is reduced.
- Interference in devices is reduced (plastic housing, devices without a ground connection).
- This can also reduce the potential interference with BT, WiFi and networks in audio devices.
- Interference with the power supply is very rarely caused by interference from outside, but rather by devices such as electric heaters, LED/energy-saving lamps, kitchen machines/appliances, cheap computers, air conditioning systems, etc.
- But a lot of interference comes from the audio components themselves, namely from poorly filtered switching power supplies, which transmit interference back into the power cables.
Depending on what kind of devices you have, how many devices you have and how close all the cables are to each other, shielded cables can be very useful. The entire small signal range and especially phono is very susceptible to such interference/interference.
And not everyone has just one combination device without additional cables for listening to music.

Dielectric is generally important in cables, but perhaps not so much in power cables. But I don't like PVC and my audio systems will never have cables with PVC as a dielectric or sheath.
And let's be honest, saving a few cents or euros on a system in the four or five-figure range to get something cheaper is a bit ridiculous. We're talking about €3-10 per meter and €1-4 per connector for high-quality material.

My experience in this area is based not only on over 35 years of audio, but also on my decades of experience in high-availability IT.
I can remember two incidents very well.
A closed network consisting of 6 servers in an operating room that sporadically crashed or restarted completely.
And a server room with several racks and high-performance servers where the same thing happened.
In both cases, it was massive interference in the power grid and the network cabling that led to crashes and restarts. And according to the monitoring devices used for the power grid, there was no overvoltage or undervoltage that led to the problems.
Locations were in the middle of large cities.
 
Zip cord is generic name for speaker cable. You can separate the two wires like a zipper.

12 gauge doesn't create frequency response errors in typical installs so that is what I would go with as far as speaker cables. For power cords, it is hard to find 12 gauge so use 14.
Or lamp cord for zip cord, which is how I was originally introduced to it as speaker wire.
 
Emphasizing technically correct facts but leaving out any relevant context is the #1 trick in any marketing.

Sure silver is 8% more conductive than copper on a normalized basis, but it will NEVER ever matter in any consumer electronics environment.
Even if it did matter, just get slightly larger copper wire to handle the current carrying capability difference.
 
If you are looking for high-quality cable material for your power cables, then I recommend LAPP ÖLFLEX® ROBUST 215C (shielded).
I was thinking about replacing my power cables with lapp cables for some time - but didn't find a reliable source to buy it without dyi (I don't want to make It by myself due to insurance matters). Do you know some manufacturers, ideally not only three pin but also for two pin (ungrounded) lapp power cords?
 
I was thinking about replacing my power cables with lapp cables for some time - but didn't find a reliable source to buy it without dyi (I don't want to make It by myself due to insurance matters). Do you know some manufacturers, ideally not only three pin but also for two pin (ungrounded) lapp power cords?
Unfortunately not, I make my own cables and it's not rocket science. What's important is a good tool for stripping, a crimping tool, wire end ferrules and clean work.
You can also ask a MakerLab/FabLab/Garagelab/selfrepair if they can help you.
You can also ask Ebay dealers for pre-assembled LAPP cables, most of them also offer individual cables.
Or an electrician you trust.
 
Solid silver is the most conductive metal, but that's one of many physical properties to consider. Coated silver is better how?

I think this is related to the fabled "skin effect" for AC currents where the electrons are only/mainly active at the surface *** of a round conductor.

So silver plated copper means (in theory) the electrons will flow through the silver thus you get all the goodness of a solid silver conductor but at a much cheaper price.



Peter

*** However according to wiki "At 60 Hz in copper, skin depth is about 8.5 mm. At high frequencies, skin depth becomes much smaller" so you would need (my interpretation) a very thick copper conductor and/or thick silver plating in a power cable before the silver plating would come into play.

For a speaker cable carrying higher frequencies....who knows?.

I am sure the companies selling cables with silver plated copper conductors will use marketing gobbledegook to dupe customers rather than have done experiments that actually prove the silver plated conductors exhibit the skin effect AND makes a measurable difference (outside of blacker blacks, veils lifted etc)
 
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At high frequencies, skin depth becomes much smaller"
But not enough to cause an issue for audio frequencies.

Especially when you consider how much less current there is at the higher frequencies.
 
But not enough to cause an issue for audio frequencies.

Especially when you consider how much less current there is at the higher frequencies.
And the silver coating is only a few μm thick, rarely more than 3-15μm.
 
But not enough to cause an issue for audio frequencies.

Especially when you consider how much less current there is at the higher frequencies.

Even running 400MHz over 30 meters of RG58 the attenuation is only -10dB. And that stuff is much thinner than one of my speaker cables on a conductor cross section area basis, let alone two.
 
Unfortunately not, I make my own cables and it's not rocket science. What's important is a good tool for stripping, a crimping tool, wire end ferrules and clean work.
You can also ask a MakerLab/FabLab/Garagelab/selfrepair if they can help you.
You can also ask Ebay dealers for pre-assembled LAPP cables, most of them also offer individual cables.
Or an electrician you trust.
I found these:



But I assume they are not the right ones, because it's Ölflex Classic 110 CY?
 
I found these:



But I assume they are not the right ones, because it's Ölflex Classic 110 CY?
These are just the usual PVC cables. You can use them, but I won't be bringing them into my house anymore.
 
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