A/B/AB/D---Please recommend posts that introduce amplifier types.

[DNCAgain]

Like other said:


You’ll get that a lot here!

As for power supplies: they can help you get some more power out of an amp in some cases. They are no magic veil lifting devices, though.

Thanks!

 

[MaxwellsEq]

I lack a foundational knowledge of electronics. Due to the need for brevity, the definitions on search engines contain many terms I find difficult to understand. Moreover, videos explaining these terms might be created by biased audiophiles.；（

There are no shortcuts to gaining knowledge in any professional engineering subject. You can read a few textbooks and ask questions in forums, but if you really want to understand an engineering subject, you really need to take some lessons. Oh, and your mathematics competence needs to be good.

The amplifier classes (A, A/B etc.) are nothing to do with sound quality but are principally about how the active gain element (a tube or a transistor) is operated.

 

[kyuu]

I recommend reading this thread:

Class D FAQ

This topic is dedicated to Frequently Asked Questions about class D amplifiers. If you have been directed here the reason is that it is easier to concentrate the frequent answers here instead of repeating them in several topics. Q1: Class D power ratings cannot be true. How can these small and...

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[DNCAgain]

I recommend reading this thread:

Class D FAQ

This topic is dedicated to Frequently Asked Questions about class D amplifiers. If you have been directed here the reason is that it is easier to concentrate the frequent answers here instead of repeating them in several topics. Q1: Class D power ratings cannot be true. How can these small and...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Thanks for sharing!

 

[GIEGAR]

I lack a foundational knowledge of electronics. Due to the need for brevity, the definitions on search engines contain many terms I find difficult to understand. Moreover, videos explaining these terms might be created by biased audiophiles.；（

A veritable treasure trove of electronics articles here:

DIY Audio Articles

Elliott Sound Products - Articles covering a wide range of topics - everything from biamping to speaker construction, plus averything in between.

www.sound-au.com

Here's the one that specifically deals with your thread topic:

Power Amp Classes

ESP - The Audio Pages. Amplifier classes, class distinction.

www.sound-au.com

 

[Mnyb]

A veritable treasure trove of electronics articles here:

DIY Audio Articles

Elliott Sound Products - Articles covering a wide range of topics - everything from biamping to speaker construction, plus averything in between.

www.sound-au.com

Here's the one that specifically deals with your thread topic:

Power Amp Classes

ESP - The Audio Pages. Amplifier classes, class distinction.

www.sound-au.com

God citations as OP can’t access Wikipedia.

 

[GIEGAR]

God citations as OP can’t access Wikipedia.

I agree, Rod Elliott is a (DIY audio) God!

 

[mtcn77]

What I have discovered since starting this hobby:
1. You cannot replace size. Many speakers offer low frequency extension, however they peak before that cutoff and you keep hearing "the kickdrum effect" if you try to equalise the volume by increasing the volume higher. It sounds engaging, but it isn't the real thing to hear lowE plus the kickdrum, sort of speak.
2. You cannot have both midrange and high volume. The size gets exponential once you try to hear the midrange well and increase sound volume. Coaxials can do midrange well, but at low volume. Separate drivers can do high volume, but not the midrange. Lesson learned don't listen to metal on coaxials.
3. Class doesn't define an amp. There is one amp that reigns supreme and it is Class B. Onyl one. Let that sink in. Every amp, therefore, is indefinite of its class. Try to pick the part, rather than the class, for the job.
For tonal clarity, you need the amp, the cables, the signal path to be clear, or you run into white noise if you try to increase the volume.
4. If you have the resources, do what Klipsch tells you to do: pick the sensitivity first and then the size of the speaker. There is a tremendous difference in the sound once you increase the cabinet and driver size. Go vintage if you have to. Get low excursion driver.

 

[Johnkeizer]

Class B? Hmm.
But yes, speaker sensitivity/ efficiency is my bedrock, after that every thing works around it.
Or not, in the case of my PS Audio BHK preamp.

 

[voodooless]

Class doesn't define an amp. There is one amp that reigns supreme and it is Class B. Onyl one. Let that sink in. Every amp, therefore, is indefinite of its class. Try to pick the part, rather than the class, for the job.

This makes no sense whatsoever, even more so than the rest of the stuff.

 

[Pareto Pragmatic]

Sorry but I can't have access to Wikipedia due to some restrictions and laws

Sorry to hear that.

Try this: https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/amplifier/amplifier-classes.html

 

[somebodyelse]

2. You cannot have both midrange and high volume. The size gets exponential once you try to hear the midrange well and increase sound volume. Coaxials can do midrange well, but at low volume. Separate drivers can do high volume, but not the midrange. Lesson learned don't listen to metal on coaxials.

This one doesn't make much sense either. At a domestic scale KEF and Genelec have coaxials to suit most room sizes. If they're not loud enough you can scale to the PA world - coaxial compression drivers or multiple entry horns like Danleys.

 

[mtcn77]

This one doesn't make much sense either. At a domestic scale KEF and Genelec have coaxials to suit most room sizes. If they're not loud enough you can scale to the PA world - coaxial compression drivers or multiple entry horns like Danleys.

I don't know the word for it. Coaxials can't play mixed band frequencies as good as separate drivers.
Oh, interference is the word I mean. I don't mean high volume as an amplitude. I mean high volume of intermodulation of frequencies not as good as when played back from separate drivers.
You can't have low excursion, low intermodulation distortion and good midrange in a single unit.

 

[voodooless]

Coaxials can't play mixed band frequencies as good as separate drivers.

It’s called doppler distortion. In typical 3-way scenarios, this should be quite inaudible.

 

[Timcognito]

There is no B without some A

 

[Steven Holt]

What I have discovered since starting this hobby:
1. You cannot replace size. Many speakers offer low frequency extension, however they peak before that cutoff and you keep hearing "the kickdrum effect" if you try to equalise the volume by increasing the volume higher. It sounds engaging, but it isn't the real thing to hear lowE plus the kickdrum, sort of speak.
2. You cannot have both midrange and high volume. The size gets exponential once you try to hear the midrange well and increase sound volume. Coaxials can do midrange well, but at low volume. Separate drivers can do high volume, but not the midrange. Lesson learned don't listen to metal on coaxials.
3. Class doesn't define an amp. There is one amp that reigns supreme and it is Class B. Onyl one. Let that sink in. Every amp, therefore, is indefinite of its class. Try to pick the part, rather than the class, for the job.
For tonal clarity, you need the amp, the cables, the signal path to be clear, or you run into white noise if you try to increase the volume.
4. If you have the resources, do what Klipsch tells you to do: pick the sensitivity first and then the size of the speaker. There is a tremendous difference in the sound once you increase the cabinet and driver size. Go vintage if you have to. Get low excursion driver.

oh god.....where's my whiskey

 

[DNCAgain]

Sorry to hear that.

Try this: https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/amplifier/amplifier-classes.html

Thanks for sharing!That works