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Do you mind measuring the nozzle diameter? (Or can you find this information online?)See my post above yours including pictures![]()
Do you mind measuring the nozzle diameter? (Or can you find this information online?)See my post above yours including pictures![]()
Do you mind measuring the nozzle diameter? (Or can you find this information online?)
Thanks! so still large (I personally just used a ruler, as my calliper was destroyed by airport security...)See these as approximate measurements, I don't have my quality tools at home and this tool loves losing zero.
View attachment 515507View attachment 515508
Makes sense, not much I can add to the previous posts, what you describe is what measurements would suggest, so I guess you got a good seal on both.Update. I now have the Zero:2, GATE, and the Hexa. Using my iPhone with a Black Pearl, no EQ (flat) to listen to them all over the past few days. Playing lossless via PlexAmp (local media) as well as Spotify at its highest quality settings. I have to admit that, to my amateur ears, that I think the Hexa comes in 3rd. May even return them. I’m still torn between the GATE and the Zero:2… they are so close to me I just don’t have a favorite yet. Perhaps the GATEs are a little bright vs the Zeros is all I can think of at the moment - again no EQ at all (haven’t figured out how to access the PEQ since I’m mainly operating from iPhone at the present). I just ordered a pair of KZ ZSTs based off a recommendation I read elsewhere. They will be here tomorrow. So I’m feeling that there is no real advantage in the jump from $20 to $90 for the Hexa’s / at least un-EQ’d. Tell me if I’m wrong. This is fun.
bruh why?I just ordered a pair of KZ ZST
Oops! Well, some other forum was talking about them - quite favorably. They, however, did not compare them to anything I already have. Like $20 and I wondered how they compare. What do you know that I need to know?? lol.bruh why?
they're the last KZ I will recommend if I ever had to recommend KZ (fvck KZ)Oops! Well, some other forum was talking about them - quite favorably. They, however, did not compare them to anything I already have. Like $20 and I wondered how they compare. What do you know that I need to know?? lol.
bruh why?
they're the last KZ I will recommend if I ever had to recommend KZ (fvck KZ)
they have weird treble peaks that are very difficult to address
Here are nozzles sizes of several IEM's listed:Do you mind measuring the nozzle diameter? (Or can you find this information online?)
Kudos for keeping an open mind toward evidence. There may be some audible qualities unique to certain driver technologies, but the technology alone doesn’t directly correlate to objective playback quality. Another issue is that measuring rigs aren’t perfectly linear(like real ears) and can overstate or understate measured FR differences depending on the driver tech. I prefer DD+BA simply because they don’t clog, I want to keep my gear for years instead of replacing every year, and they’re fully vented, unlike full-BA, which is back-vented only and has an odd fitment sensation.@staticV3 & @muza_1
After digging deeper into the evidence regarding driver topology over the past week, I’m standing corrected on my argument about the 'definitive differences' between these technologies in an IEM/headphone context.
I was conflating mechanical behaviour with audible performance. While the physical motor structures are undeniably different in how they move, the majority of research indicates that air pressure at the eardrum doesn't carry a 'signature' of the motor that created it.
Most notably, I had overestimated the contribution of non-linear distortion to the listening experience. It seems that, for distortion to become an audible issue, SPL levels would have to be pushed far beyond safe or comfortable limits.
I appreciate the pushback—it’s been a useful (and humbling) exercise in separating physics from psychoacoustics.
That's actually expected, the Gate and Zero 2 are tuned with more treble and bass, giving them a more powerful sound when listening passively at low volume. When you turn up the volume, the Gate and Zero 2 can become annoying/stuffy on some songs. The difference in the neutral tuning of the Hexa makes it more tip-sensitive, so you might not like it until you experiment a bit. Try going both up and down a tip size if you haven’t. Most agree that narrow-bore tips sound better on this IEM than the wide-bores.I have to admit that, to my amateur ears, that I think the Hexa comes in 3rd. May even return them.
bruh why?
Thank you for the “tip”. I’ll change them up and see what becomes. Right now using the stock memory foam that came with the Hexas.Kudos for keeping an open mind toward evidence. There may be some audible qualities unique to certain driver technologies, but the technology alone doesn’t directly correlate to objective playback quality. Another issue is that measuring rigs aren’t perfectly linear(like real ears) and can overstate or understate measured FR differences depending on the driver tech. I prefer DD+BA simply because they don’t clog, I want to keep my gear for years instead of replacing every year, and they’re fully vented, unlike full-BA, which is back-vented only and has an odd fitment sensation.
That's actually expected, the Gate and Zero 2 are tuned with more treble and bass, giving them a more powerful sound when listening passively at low volume. When you turn up the volume, the Gate and Zero 2 can become annoying/stuffy on some songs. The difference in the neutral tuning of the Hexa makes it more tip-sensitive, so you might not like it until you experiment a bit. Try going both up and down a tip size if you haven’t. Most agree that narrow-bore tips sound better on this IEM than the wide-bores.
Etymōtic IEMs. There are two series.I’m looking for some seasoned perspective on my first IEM purchase.
I’ve spent the last 72 hours reading reviews, forum threads, and measurement graphs, and I can confidently report that I now understand less than I did before I learned what “IEM” even stood for. The deeper I dig, the more it appears there are approximately 16,500 models on the market — each described as “the best at its price point.” It’s impressive. It’s also paralyzing.
A little context:
I’m a home-theater hobbyist who appreciates good sound and tries to push my system just slightly beyond what my budget thinks is reasonable. For portable listening, I’ve been using 2022 AirPods Pro and Sony WH-1000XM3s. They’re convenient, but I’m curious what I’m missing.
My interest in IEMs is twofold:
I want more clarity, separation, and detail than I’m getting from my wireless gear.
I wouldn’t mind reducing Bluetooth/RF exposure when I can. I’m not wearing a tinfoil hat, but if wired gets me meaningfully better sound and less RF next to my head, that would be spectacular.
Music preferences: Gen X. Mostly 70s/80s rock, pop, R&B, hip-hop, glam rock — all the way to the latest hits. Basically, everything except country.
Now, Part 2:
I also have a teenager who appears to have AirPods Pro 2 permanently installed (heavy emphasis on my RF/Bluetooth concerns above). I’d like to introduce her to wired IEMs as an alternative at home. The goal is simple: something that sounds so good she voluntarily reaches for them.
If there’s a compelling entry-level option that clearly outperforms AirPods in sound quality — enough to make a noticeable “wow” impression — that’s where I’d prefer to begin. I fully accept there’s a 50/50 chance this becomes an educational exercise for me instead of a conversion for her.
If you were introducing someone used to AirPods to “real” IEM sound, where would you start — and why?
You're not wrong. The correlation between price and quality is very weak in this market. Tuning is a black box to a real and material extent because the effective / net frequency response is different for everyone, so for you and me to get the same / perfect sound, we will very likely need two different IEMs.’m feeling that there is no real advantage in the jump from $20 to $90 for the Hexa’s / at least un-EQ’d. Tell
Big kudos for coming back with this correction. If everyone acted this way in all contexts, we would be living in a utopia. For today at least we can all work toward a utopia of good sound.@staticV3 & @muza_1
After digging deeper into the evidence regarding driver topology over the past week, I’m standing corrected on my argument about the 'definitive differences' between these technologies in an IEM/headphone context.
I was conflating mechanical behaviour with audible performance. While the physical motor structures are undeniably different in how they move, the majority of research indicates that air pressure at the eardrum doesn't carry a 'signature' of the motor that created it.
Most notably, I had overestimated the contribution of non-linear distortion to the listening experience. It seems that, for distortion to become an audible issue, SPL levels would have to be pushed far beyond safe or comfortable limits.
I appreciate the pushback—it’s been a useful (and humbling) exercise in separating physics from psychoacoustics.
Let me quickly add for OP's sake that while Etys can sound awesome if their dry, analytical presentation floats your boat, they perform best when deeply (and I mean deeply!) inserted.Etymōtic IEMs. There are two series.
Flat response SR-Series (for more critical listening) and Extended bass XR-Series.
I have both. ER4SR I’ve had for years, just got a set of ER4XR on sale, just because.
I’m really liking the XR’s, so far.
They’re noted for excellent, detailed sound. Great for all genres, I listen to all periods and genres of classical, jazz and “world music”.
There are ER2x and ER3x, both a bit cheaper than the ER4-series.
Etymōtic has regular sales. Currently, about 30% off.
FYI, you can buy a USB-C to 0.78mm 2-pin cable for them, e.g. the AU$32 FiiO LS-TC2:I have a Truthear Zero Red which I liked, but I need something with usb-c so I can use with my Switch 2 without having to use a dongle, so I bought another Moondrop Chu 2.
Thanks for the links but that is exactly my point. Why buy something cheap then spend same amount for some "upgrade". The worst part of Chu 2 is the cable itselfFYI, you can buy a USB-C to 0.78mm 2-pin cable for them, e.g. the AU$32 FiiO LS-TC2:
Or the AU$27 Moondrop CDSP
These come with PEQ/DSP, hence the high prices.
Heres an AU$10 one without PEQ:
But definitely get one with PEQ unless you've already got an app that does that (highly unlikely on a game console)