Works fine for me (first generation). Should work even better from the second batch on.
Works fine for me (first generation). Should work even better from the second batch on.
It all depends on what you use the amp for, sensitivity of your speakers, listening distance and desired minimum listening level. I'd.go so far and say that it probably worked OK for most users even in the first batch (those who had no need to come here and complain). Of course, I wish yi had the 2nd gen features.
I for one hate the idea if additional trigger cables.
Are you trying to imply something here? Or did you really not come across people using these amps in active multi-way configurations, feeding only high sensitivity tweeters? Come on ...
I won't do the math for you. Unless you tell me that you're really lacking the skills and need my help, of course. Until then I assume you have a profound knowledge of how each of this factors influences the usability of auto-sensing. 3e Audio clearly specify the sensitivity threshold.
That's what happens when you just pick those posts that feed your confirmation bias. The first batch is long sold out, so you are sure to receive a unit from a new batch ...
... but you didn't come here to inform yourself prior to purchase. You came here for other reasons.
I thought you asked what I'd use it for, and I replied. I did not think that is somehow a wrong thing to do. English is not my native language so maybe there are nuances that I miss.
No need to help, thank you.
Can I reply to this? Oh well, I'll take the risk: 2,83V. I believe this is the standard in the industry so I did not think it is a relevant to specify every time. I'm sorry for that.
However, I think we both can agree there has been a problem? And how could I know if the store I'd buy it from would've sold out the batch with the problem.
What are you implying here? I'm sure you'd like to tell me what those reasons are but I really do not see any point in this. I wrote a comment how I don't see why not include a trigger option as it would've make the product even better. You basically wrote I do not need (or at least it isn't that important) it and that you hate trigger cables. I wrote I'd liked it to have one nevertheless, answered to (assumed) questions, and here we are. After all, this is a discussion forum.... but you didn't come here to inform yourself prior to purchase. You came here for other reasons.
maybe there used to be a problem with the auto on/off sensitivity -
as far as i know, only review samples had the 12v trigger input. the newer model with the improved auto on/off sensitivity doesn't have them, and they also implemented s a function to disable the auto on/off - i'll have the search the A5 review thread for the howto on that. from what i remember, when the amp is in standby mode (all leds off), you long press its button until leds flashing , then you can turn on/off this function
as far as i know, only review samples had the 12v trigger input. the newer model with the improved auto on/off sensitivity doesn't have them, and they also implemented s a function to disable the auto on/off - i'll have the search the A5 review thread for the howto on that. from what i remember, when the amp is in standby mode (all leds off), you long press its button until leds flashing , then you can turn on/off this function
EDIT:
3eaudio said:
we had made some change base on user feedback and suggestion from ASR member, thanks again for all of your advice and help us keep improve.
- Auto power off time set to 20 mins
- Increase audio detection sensitivity RCA: 200uVrms; XLR: 400uVrms,this significantly meet some user listening in very very low volume.
- Auto audio sensing power on/off can be disable/enable by user.
after over a month with the A5, the audio sense auto on/off works flawlessly . i doubt they'll return that 12v trigger .
The binding posts on the A5 and A7 series are actually pretty decent.
No, there is no industry standard and what comes closest to being one is the sensitivity at a distance of 1 m with an 1 Watt input power. This is a pretty useless standard as it leads too man companies to nominally label their speakers as 8 Ω when they clearly should be (nominally) labeled 4 Ω.
Depending on the use case, some users have complained. A use case is not simply defined by “listening to music”. I wasn't trying to trap you; I was asking a simple, serious question. And I also explained long ago in which cases problems could arise.
no offense but why are you nitpicking into a product you haven't even received?
I had answered your question directly if I could.
But so far I didn't open the case myself and only have seen pictures of the inside.I had answered your question directly if I could.
I don't think I'd attempt to change them as they seem to be connected to some kind of riser PCB.
ok, i think you'll be pleasantly surprised with how well built and thought out is the A5 (and i suppose the A7 as well) - honestly it reminds me of a good quality car power amp, just with an external power supply and a volume knob
I had opened up my 3e A7 unit's case couple days back for something and I can confirm that there aren't any wires used for binding posts.No offense taken. I occasionally like to do some low-level tinkering, and given that 3e Audio -- at least at some point -- had the kits/parts for people to build the amp themselves (it is still listed under the products dropdown on their site, but the buy it now buttons take you to a 404 error page on AliExpress), I don't see the issue with inquiring about a little customization/personalization. I don't think of it as being any different than swapping out the op amps.
I also asked because I've had the binding posts on these types of amps fall apart on me before (hence my comment about them being my biggest complaint). In that specific case, it would be easier for all parties involved if it was something the end user could replace themselves in 15 minutes rather than send the whole thing back, and wait for a new unit to arrive.
If that's being nitpick-y, I do apologize. It's just how my brain works. If they're as decent as @harkpabst says they are (and I have zero reason to doubt that), then I likely won't feel a need to replace them.
This photo does seem to indicate that it might not be too difficult?
It all depends on whether the wires are soldered directly to the post or to a metal tab that is sandwiched between the nut and that square piece of brass(?). If it happens to be the former, I'm definitely not going to screw around with that. I'm also assuming that these are not "full-sized" binding posts (i.e. the same size as ones you'd find on an AVR or full-sized power amp)?
