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3e Audio A7 [TPA3255 PFFB Stereo] Finished Amplifier - User Impressions | Owner's Thread

Power amplifiers should not have a subwoofer output.

Power amplifiers are not supposed to have a volume control either.

Otherwise, I don’t understand: if it has a line-level input and a volume control, what makes it different from an integrated amplifier?

But these 3eAudio amps do have one, along with some other unnecessary and more than useless features that users in this forum thread are complaining about.
 
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Any some other stupid and more than useless features that users here at this forum thread complain about.
Pardon me?

Sub out without adjustable high pass and low pass filtering is pointless, except for toys. I'd prefer to not have volume control but at least it serves a clear purpose for some.
 
Pardon me?

Sub out without adjustable high pass and low pass filtering is pointless, except for toys. I'd prefer to not have volume control but at least it serves a clear purpose for some.

You can send a signal to the subwoofer via a "sub out" and then adjust its level and roll-off settings. This is how I use my REL sub. This is how my friend use their expensive subs in their audio setups.

So, in your opinion, subwoofers like REL, MJ Acoustics etc are "toys," while you consider this little chimp amp from 3e Audio to be a "serious hi-end amp"? Give me a break. This amp is designed for car audio, low-fi setups, portable audio—those kinds of applications.

It's more suited for audiophiles on a (smaller) budget.
 
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You can send a signal to the subwoofer via a "sub out" and then adjust its level and roll-off settings. This is how I use my REL sub. This is how my friend use their expensive subs in their audio setups.

So, in your opinion, subwoofers like REL, MJ Acoustics etc are "toys," while you consider this little chimp amp from 3e Audio to be a "serious hi-end amp"? Give me a break. This amp is designed for car audio, low-fi setups, portable audio—those kinds of applications.

It's more suited for audiophiles on a (smaller) budget.
Ah - the old "lo-fi" dismissal.

What is your definition of lo-fi?
An amount of money to purchase?
Or
Objective performance?
Something else?

What device with a similar power rating do you consider Hi-Fi? How does its objective performance compare?

Because surely if we are talking about the "highness" of the "fidelity" then actual fidelity to the source is what we should be looking at?
 
You can send a signal to the subwoofer via a "sub out" and then adjust its level and roll-off settings. This is how I use my REL sub. This is how my friend use their expensive subs in their audio setups.

So, in your opinion, subwoofers like REL, MJ Acoustics etc are "toys," while you consider this little chimp amp from 3e Audio to be a "serious hi-end amp"? Give me a break. This amp is designed for car audio, low-fi setups, portable audio—those kinds of applications.

It's more suited for audiophiles on a (smaller) budget.
I didn't say what you chose to understand.

Anyway, having a sub out on the power amp remains having it the wrong way. This has been asked for during the design validation phase when 3e Audio announced their plans for the new amp series in this forum. Back then (and just as now) the majority or readers did not want to see money wasted on a sub out.

Sorry. Those who want to go that cheap will be go for cheaper desktop amps anyway.
 
You can send a signal to the subwoofer via a "sub out" and then adjust its level and roll-off settings. This is how I use my REL sub. This is how my friend use their expensive subs in their audio setups.

So, in your opinion, subwoofers like REL, MJ Acoustics etc are "toys," while you consider this little chimp amp from 3e Audio to be a "serious hi-end amp"? Give me a break. This amp is designed for car audio, low-fi setups, portable audio—those kinds of applications.

It's more suited for audiophiles on a (smaller) budget.
sorry but your comment does not correspond to the level of this forum
 
This amp is designed for car audio, low-fi setups, portable audio—those kinds of applications.
Yeah right, because surely serious PA systems and professional monitor speakers are all still using class AB only then?

Seriously, what is your contribution to this forum?
 
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while you consider this little chimp amp from 3e Audio to be a "serious hi-end amp"? Give me a break. This amp is designed for car audio, low-fi setups, portable audio—those kinds of applications.

I don't know whether we should call the A7 amp "high-end", but it is for sure "high performance": >90% efficiency, excellent THD+N, load-independent, 2ohms-compatible, low crosstalk... I do not expect anything else from a power amp, and I personnally find it smart to use such an equipment for audio purposes instead of the good old class-A design that uses 80% of the electrical power just to heat up my listening room !
The fact that the A7 weighs 1 kg and has a small footprint does not make it a toy or only "designed for portable audio": it is a true powerhouse, and a very clean one !
Its design is for sure far from perfect in terms of features, but in the end I am happy that it has a volume control, as it allows me to circumvent the issue with auto-off sensitivity... Users reporting some defective units in this thread is not a good point, I admit, but "shit happens"... just have a look at stereophile's reviews of "high-end" products and you'll see that they often test pieces of equipments that are identified as defective... and cost more than ten times the price of this little amp.


It's more suited for audiophiles on a (smaller) budget.

Yes indeed ! And I am more than pleased to find products able to deliver clean sound without costing the price of my house !
 
@3e Audio
A question for 3e Audio if you don't mind. I own a 260-2-29A and am struggling driving it with a potentiometer. What's your recommendation, 100k? 50k? or less? linear or log? Stepped or not? Thank you.
50k is good to go, log type for volume,step or not doesn't impact but up to your favorite.
 
I got my A5 today and very unusually the first thing I did was play it at as low a volume as possible. I'm not at my main system, so I have to use my phone through the headphone out into RCA.

At one step above silence on the volume control - so very quiet but audible - the A5 cuts out after 5 mins.
At two steps above silence - so still very quiet, and lower than I would deem 'very low background for guests' - it cuts in and stays on. So thankfully for me this should not be an issue ... though I will try again with my 90 db efficient speakers when I return to base!

I understand though where @Piotr and others are coming from, possibly with desktop near-field background music use - or low ambient sound on film tracks or gaming scenarios again up close.

Mine came with OPA1656's as it seems did everyone buying A5, A7, A7 Mono.

Even with the basic RCA from my phone everything points to excellent sound when I get it back to my main set up. Even with this set up through old Wharfdale Diamonds the sound is excellent - full bodied, great bass control, clean highs ... the amp seems to take control nicely.

Post edit ... phone volume control with A5 volume control switched off.

1737656095335.jpeg
 
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A question for 3e Audio if you don't mind. I own a 260-2-29A and am struggling driving it with a potentiometer. What's your recommendation, 100k? 50k? linear or log? Stepped or not? Thank you.
I use one of these into various 3255 amplifiers and for me it's one of the best purchases I have made ('transparent')... you can return it through the ali-express system return postage included if you do not find the same - but obviously verify for yourself in your country.

I would not normally stick my neck out, but I am about to get another one of these. I use mine balanced - 4v or 5v.
 
As soon as a version is released with a proper 12V trigger (that was correctly included in the pre-production version), or at least has the band-aid of being able to defeat the auto-sensing....I am in on these. Only thing holding me back from ordering now.

My thoughts exactly. Applies to the A5 aswell. Why not include 12V trigger input? Really strange.
 
My A7 just arrived
Let the fun begin

Comparing to dartzeel nhb-108 pro clone. First impression (with volume bypass): sounds good, less bass than dartzeel. Will post more after more substantial listening.

IMG_6046.jpeg
 
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My thoughts exactly. Applies to the A5 aswell. Why not include 12V trigger input? Really strange.
Good point. I guess I should have mentioned 3e put in 12V trigger across the entire lineup (I am specifically wanting A7 mono's myself...my HT mains are only 82dB sensitive lol).
 
Swapping opamps makes as much sense with volume bypass enabled as it makes with volume bypass disabled. ;)

Agreed. No sense at all.;)
 
I got my A7 monos a few days ago. I replaced the op amps with Sparkos ss3602 which improved the sound significantly. Right now I'm comparing the A7 mono against the Fosi ZA3 (configured as a mono block; I removed the op amps for the RCA input and the Sub output). Both units are powered by 48V/10A GaN power supplies and both units have the Sparkos op amps installed.

Both amps do sound good, but I slightly prefer the ZA3 because the high end is more open and airy. The A7 has a little more punch and "body" in the lower midrange/upper bass though.

The auto off is very annoying (cutting off the first few seconds of a music track)...
 
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