• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

3e audio A7/A7 Mono Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 4 1.3%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 9 2.9%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 79 25.8%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 214 69.9%

  • Total voters
    306
Hey! If I purchase dual 3e A7 mono amps will the RCA connection indicate RED for right amp and WHITE for the left amp? Or will both amps have the RED . I just figured if you purchase dual, one amp will have a red RCA and the other will have a white RCA.
The A7 mono amplifiers I’ve handled so far had a white RCA jack.
But why—and for what purpose—would that matter?
They are mono power amplifiers sold individually; there is no specific "right" or "left" unit (nor a "middle" one for a center channel).
After all, you decide which channel to use it for.
 
The A7 mono amplifiers I’ve handled so far had a white RCA jack.
But why—and for what purpose—would that matter?
They are mono power amplifiers sold individually; there is no specific "right" or "left" unit (nor a "middle" one for a center channel).
After all, you decide which channel to use it for.
When I connect my pre amp via rca. Right (red) in the right mono amp and left (white) in the left mono amp
 
When I connect my pre amp via rca. Right (red) in the right mono amp and left (white) in the left mono amp
Sorry what mono amp model are you talking about that does that?

What color would you want an amp feeding Center? Would that be a different color from an LFE channel, different again from a regular Sub?

No 3e does not do what you want, never seen any mfg do that,

just use nail polish, or stick a L vs R label somewhere.
 
When I connect my pre amp via rca. Right (red) in the right mono amp and left (white) in the left mono amp
You do realize that you have described your solution, not the problem?
There are also manufacturers who mark the RCA cables with white and black, or red and black—what do you do then?
 
Apologies for coming in here with no other posts - and being a bit of a noob (relatively) in this world.
I recently picked up a 3E Audio A7, and have it paired with an SMSL-D1 DAC, with output coming from my PC to the DAC, then via RCA to the AMP. Amp is powering my Swans D3.1 MKII speakers.
Worked great for a few weeks, but all of a sudden, I would start to get popping / slight static, then eventually the sound would stop completely. I would unplug the amp for a bit then it might work again, but eventually lose sound again. And then a few days ago, it just stopped outputting sound altogether. Lights still comes on showing RCA / that it's getting power. I was running a 48v 10a power supply, and tried swapping to the GAN PS that came with it, to see if it might be power related - no change.

No change in connections / output mode from PC. I have tried swapping the DAC with a Schitt DAC I have, but still same issue. I ordered a USB-C to RCA cable which should show up tomorrow to see if powering directly from phone to amp may render a signal to speakers, but I'm not optimistic. I've tried fiddling with the gain / volume bypass switches to no effect.

Any suggestions for potential fix? Or possible that the amp has crapped the bed? Thanks in advance to any wizards on here :)
 
Worked great for a few weeks, but all of a sudden, I would start to get popping / slight static, then eventually the sound would stop completely. I would unplug the amp for a bit then it might work again, but eventually lose sound again. And then a few days ago, it just stopped outputting sound altogether.
This sounds to me like the amp is broken. I could speculate about the reasons, but it's uncertain over the net. With pops/static you should check the RCA cables feeding it. And measure the speaker binding posts for DC voltage. Maybe also take a look at the power jack of the amp, the plug should fit properly and firm in there.
 
That is just another different DAC.

Have you an alternative amp you can swap in?

@3eaudio may comment, or post a query on the Ali shop contact link.

Did you purchase direct from their shop?
Thank you for your response. I agree it's a different DAC - was just one more variable to eliminate (even though I did have the Schitt one - I figured for $12 for the cable, I could avoid disassembling stuff on my desk). If it's a no go, I can further rule out the amp.

I originally was planning to purchase from their Ali Express page, but I found it on Amazon also, and took advantage of a major price drop about 3 months ago. I've only been using it for about 1.5 months as my speakers took a long time to arrive.

Only other amp I have is in my garage - a Yamaha AV receiver. Can test the speakers there - although I'm doubtful it's the speakers.
 
This sounds to me like the amp is broken. I could speculate about the reasons, but it's uncertain over the net. With pops/static you should check the RCA cables feeding it. And measure the speaker binding posts for DC voltage. Maybe also take a look at the power jack of the amp, the plug should fit properly and firm in there.
Thanks for your response. I've reseated the RCA cables and power jack (swapped to a different one (from 10a to 5a) to test if that - with no positive effect. I'll try with a different set of RCA cables from my Schitt stack to test that.

I'll have to look into the DC voltage - never tried that. Will investigate. I do have a tester. Thanks for that idea.
 
Last edited:
FYI - it turns out that the issue is likely a faulty DAC. I've swapped to a Topping D50 III, and everything is great again.

Thanks to those that replied, and kudos to @3eaudio for PMing me about the issue.
 
Last edited:
Would this amp be enough to drive Arendal 1610 slim speakers? I have a Denon 3800h and no external amps at the moment and thinking of speaker upgrade. My usual listening volume is max 80dB.
 

Attachments

  • Impedance-Slim-1536x864.jpg
    Impedance-Slim-1536x864.jpg
    74.8 KB · Views: 46
Would this amp be enough to drive Arendal 1610 slim speakers? I have a Denon 3800h and no external amps at the moment and thinking of speaker upgrade. My usual listening volume is max 80dB.
Yes, 80dB is easy, even in a large room.
 
I don't think you would have a problem with the Denon either.

But there are also other advantages of using that poweramp with it. Efficiency, AVR preamp mode possibly, temperature..

Then there's also balanced input as a 2nd option. I like to put a DAC there and take the Denon out of music 2.0 processing.
 
Hello,

I am new to the forum and relatively new to the matters of HiFi audio.
I have acquired a pair of used Nubert NuVero 14 and find myself in need of an amp. The irony is that I do not listen at high volumes (need to keep my tinnitus in check - so why did I get these humongous speakers? I don't have an answer) and especially for long durations of time. My question is: would the E3 Audio A7 stereo provide as good of a listening experience at low levels of volume as a A/B class amp?
 
I am new to the forum and relatively new to the matters of HiFi audio.
I have acquired a pair of used Nubert NuVero 14 and find myself in need of an amp. The irony is that I do not listen at high volumes (need to keep my tinnitus in check - so why did I get these humongous speakers? I don't have an answer) and especially for long durations of time. My question is: would the E3 Audio A7 stereo provide as good of a listening experience at low levels of volume as a A/B class amp?
I think it's a good combination and will sound as good as these speakers can possibly produce.

Obviously these speakers can take a lot more power than the A7 has. Sensitivity is also fairly low. But for "low levels" this doesn't matter.

Your listening experience will be limited by what sound quality these speakers can produce, especially mid and high section. And by the signal you feed the amp. If the class AB is good you won't hear a difference to a good class D amp (which the A7 is).

As you see the speakers are quite old. Assuming the crossovers are all still good (no reason not to be). And the drivers are OK. Only thing I'd do is take out the bi-amping/wiring bridge, clean it and check for corrosion. These metal pieces have often been weak points in the past. But easy to fix.
 
Back
Top Bottom