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3e audio A7/A7 Mono Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 4 1.4%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 10 3.6%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 73 26.3%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 191 68.7%

  • Total voters
    278
WiiM ultra,sub out,Nakamichi Y,SVS SB 1000pro (2)
 

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Unfortunately, these class D amps which are based on the TI TPA325x platform go into protection when you tie one of their outputs to ground. A bridgable amp like the Audiolab 9000p would work with subwoofer high level connections. It seems much more expensive to buy that than the WiiM. I personally prefer using a low-level crossover to enable full bass management of subwoofer and speakers.
 
Niestety, te wzmacniacze klasy D oparte na platformie TI TPA325x przechodzą w tryb ochrony po podłączeniu jednego z ich wyjść do masy. Wzmacniacz mostkowy, taki jak Audiolab 9000p, działałby z połączeniami wysokiego poziomu subwoofera. Wydaje się, że jest on znacznie droższy niż WiiM. Osobiście wolę używać zwrotnicy niskopoziomowej, aby umożliwić pełne zarządzanie basem subwoofera i głośników.
Ok
 

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Will use them with the BMR first, they are tough to drive due to the low sensitivity. I have to crank the HTx volume to at least -10 when using DLBC, with the R900, even -20 is okay, that's with the buckeye NC502MP or the VTV Purifi. The little V3 can drive the R900 fine but cannot touch the BMRs except for near field, I think the A7 will do good there.


Running the BMR Monitors with the A7 with 48v 10a PSU and is definitely sufficient power for the volumes I listen at.
IMG_1041.jpeg
 
I ordered the A7 with the 48v/5a supply to pair with Ascilab C6B's. Will test in a few days. Any thoughts on how much the power supply might be a limiting factor? I already have subs.
 
I ordered the A7 with the 48v/5a supply to pair with Ascilab C6B's. Will test in a few days. Any thoughts on how much the power supply might be a limiting factor? I already have subs.
The 48V 5A power supply will run out of power when those speakers reach 102 dB (per speaker at 1 meter with both channels driven). A 48V 10A PSU will run out of power around 105 dB. Those speakers are 85 dB @ 2.83V, so about 82 dB @ 1 watt for 4 ohm.

It depends if you will push those volume levels for your peaks when listening very loud and/or in a huge space with dynamic music.
 
The 48V 5A power supply will run out of power when those speakers reach 102 dB (per speaker at 1 meter with both channels driven). A 48V 10A PSU will run out of power around 105 dB. Those speakers are 85 dB @ 2.83V, so about 82 dB @ 1 watt for 4 ohm.

It depends if you will push those volume levels for your peaks when listening very loud and/or in a huge space with dynamic music.
Except : those power supplies are able to deliver quite a bit more current for short term peaks.

If not clipping, average power is going to be about 10dB down from peak (or often more). It is typically average power that these power supplies care about.
 
Hi all
Yesterday I received the 3e A7se and was able to check how it performs with my Wharfedale Linton 85th speakers in a room of about 20 m². First impressions were positive. The sound was clean and dynamic, and there were no problems with the bass, which I had been concerned about given that the Wharfedale impedance drops to around 3.5 ohms, while the 3e A7se is rated for 4–16 ohm speakers.


I set the listening level at approximately 70–80 dB, with peaks of around 90 dB. The sound source was a Denon DCD-1015 connected via the fixed output. The volume potentiometer on the 3e A7se was set between the 10 and 12 o’clock positions. The sound was clean and dynamic.


Compared to my Sansui AU-D7, the 3e A7se sounds slightly more detailed, which was to be expected, as the Sansui is known for its somewhat softer and more ear-friendly sound. Both amplifiers seem to perform at a similar overall level, but they differ slightly in their sonic character.
 
It's a win in efficiency as well. Minus on losing losing EQ, inputs etc
 
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With the necessary caveat in relation to all that has said correctly about perceptions etc. I would just say that I stayed with the A7 over the A5 - for it's slight character. Would not necessarily call it warmth - but something, 'ease' vs 'more pristine' maybe. Anyway, loving mine too.

Interesting to read your comparisons, especially vs the more expensive gear ... enforces my lack of desire to change, and indeed what the the measurements suggested way back on page 1. Eigentakt would be interesting too.

Did a quick AB yesterday, a 2 people SBT/DBT non level matched one. Neither one was able to tell a difference. Compared the A7 Mono with the NC502MP, the gain difference between the two should be within .5 dB and felt like that too by ears. Will have time to do a more proper one next weekend and will match them with REW/Umik-1 mic. I don't have any more expensive amps to compare but could do it with the VTV Purifi, NAD C326BEE and probably the vintage Marantz SM-7 (much more work as it is in another room and is quite heavy). Will also try to invite another person who was able to guess more right than wrong when we compared the A21 with the 4BSST a few years ago, so he probably has much better/discerning hearing.
 
Compared to my Sansui AU-D7, the 3e A7se sounds slightly more detailed, which was to be expected, as the Sansui is known for its somewhat softer and more ear-friendly sound. Both amplifiers seem to perform at a similar overall level, but they differ slightly in their sonic character.

Congrats! Not surprised with your findings so far. I found an very old, obviously, review on the AU-D7 that included the following info:

Based on the flat line frequency response, and THD below the widely accepted threshold level, the two amps should sound the same or nearly the same in an apples to apples AB comparison listening. Obviously you can push the Sansui to clipping a little sooner than you can with the A7 SE.

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1768139131518.png
 
Hi,
However, certain things surprised me. Subjectively, I perceived the bass in the Sansui as slightly stronger than in the 3e A7se. This may be due to the fact that it is a bit softer and less tightly focused than in the 3e. Moreover, I achieved 80–90 dB on the Sansui with the volume knob at around 10–11 o’clock, and the amplifier still had a considerable power reserve. And after all, this is a model from the early 1980s. How old-school its construction is can be seen in this video:
 
I ordered the A7 with the 48v/5a supply to pair with Ascilab C6B's. Will test in a few days. Any thoughts on how much the power supply might be a limiting factor? I already have subs.
Mine came with 5a supply, there was no option for 10a and I’ve not considered buying one. It can easily drive my F206 to police visit levels of loudness, without distortion. I run out of steam, before the amp does.
 
Mine came with 5a supply, there was no option for 10a and I’ve not considered buying one. It can easily drive my F206 to police visit levels of loudness, without distortion. I run out of steam, before the amp does.

By default, there is no option to choose to get the amp with the 10A power supply as its own SKU. I believe the stated reason for this comes down to the cost of shipping. On AliExpress, at least, you would choose the option to get the amp with no power supply, and select the 10A supply separately.

I just looked, and there's shockingly little difference in getting the A7 with the 5A supply, and ordering the 10A separately vs ordering the A7 with no power supply, and ordering the 10A separately. I think the difference is around $23 CAD before taxes because the A7 without the PSU is $441 CAD vs $464 CAD for the A7 with the 5A PSU (10A PSU on its own is $105 CAD). IMO, there should be a bigger break in the price if you choose to go with the option without the PSU, but that's just me...
 
Will use them with the BMR first, they are tough to drive due to the low sensitivity. I have to crank the HTx volume to at least -10 when using DLBC, with the R900, even -20 is okay, that's with the buckeye NC502MP or the VTV Purifi. The little V3 can drive the R900 fine but cannot touch the BMRs except for near field, I think the A7 will do good there.
Updates? I'm about to either buy these or maybe a hypex for BMR monitors I have on order
 
Mine came with 5a supply, there was no option for 10a and I’ve not considered buying one. It can easily drive my F206 to police visit levels of loudness, without distortion. I run out of steam, before the amp does.
I also have F206 with the 3e A7 and 5 amp PSU. I am in an apartment, so the cops are coming well before I see the clip indicators.
 
Moreover, I achieved 80–90 dB on the Sansui with the volume knob at around 10–11 o’clock, and the amplifier still had a considerable power reserve.
No, it didn't really have a considerable power reserve, just a considerable amount of volume pot travel left. :) If you tried to make use of this, the amp would distort heavily, so you cannot call that a reserve.

What you experience is just a much higher input sensitivity (lower input voltage for maximum power input) due to higher gain. If you can reach your desired target SPL with just a small turn of the knob, you simply have less granular volume control, not higher power. It's not the amp "coming to life" earlier, it's your perception playing tricks on you.

The speaker doesn't care about amplifier gain or the characteristic curve of the potentiometer. It will always need the same power for the same SPL at the same frequency.

Subjectively, I perceived the bass in the Sansui as slightly stronger than in the 3e A7se.
One very plausible (and likely) reason would be a lower damping factor (higher output impedance) of the AU-D7. This would result in a little less bass control and potentially somewhat different tonality (although the impedance of the Linton is pretty flat except for the min and max values up to ~300 Hz).

Minus on losing losing EQ, inputs etc
At least for those using these as integrated amplifiers with just one input (2 inputs if you count XLR and RCA as that). I rather think of the A7 as a power amp with bypassable volume control and expect the inputs, EQ, room correction and bass management to be handled by a pre-amp. But each to their own.

IMO, there should be a bigger break in the price if you choose to go with the option without the PSU, but that's just me...
That bigger gap would be mostly artificial. These 48 V 5 A GaN PSUs are pretty cheap when bought separately. And those buying the complete "kit including amp and PSU surely expect a little discount, just as you would like to see it in the other direction. ;)
 
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