3e Audio A5 Stereo Amplifier Review

[somebodyelse]

The main question is: is this difference between the BTL and PBTL audible, or is it only visible on the graphs?

It depends on the impedance of your speakers. PBTL provides extra current not extra voltage, so unless you're current limited (high power output into impedance significantly below 4R) you won't see a benefit.

 

[r-36m2]

It depends on the impedance of your speakers. PBTL provides extra current not extra voltage, so unless you're current limited (high power output into impedance significantly below 4R) you won't see a benefit.

Thank you. My speakers have an impedance of 8 ohms. Do you think there will be no difference between the A5 and A5se in my case, assuming I use the same op amps?

 

[somebodyelse]

Thank you. My speakers have an impedance of 8 ohms. Do you think there will be no difference between the A5 and A5se in my case, assuming I use the same op amps?

Unlikely, but without knowing what the speakers are and checking a measured impedance curve we can't be sure. It would be unusual for a nominally 8R speaker to have a minimum significantly below 4R though. Opamps won't make a significant difference either - plenty of other threads cover why, with measurements.

 

[Decisionmaker]

Currently road testing this amp with the Vestlyd 12C speakers and a Wiim Ultra.
Sounds pretty damn good at the price point.
Any objective info on the A5's gain setting at the back? I currently have it on low gain and volume is being controlled by the Wiim.
With the Wiim volume on 60, its already plenty loud for the room.

Two questions
1. Would there be any benefits of having the Gain set to 'high ?
2. Any benefits to controlling the volume on the Amp instead of the Wiim?

Thanks!

 

[harkpabst]

Two questions
1. Would there be any benefits of having the Gain set to 'high ?
2. Any benefits to controlling the volume on the Amp instead of the Wiim?

My answer is no and no.

The higher gain setting will provide slightly worse SINAD. As long as you can get it as long as you need, there's no reason to go with the HIGH setting. Your Ultra's output voltage should be set to 2 Vrms by default and that should be fine.

I would set the 3E AUDIO A5 to BAYPASS mode and forget about its volume control. The digital volume control on the Ultra will provide far better channel balance, especially at low volumes. Plus you keep the convenience of using the remote. The Ultra uses an 8 bit table for volume control and will process audio data up to 24 bit. There won't be any real world resolution loss using the digital volume control.

 

[Guddu]

My answer is no and no.

The higher gain setting will provide slightly worse SINAD. As long as you can get it as long as you need, there's no reason to go with the HIGH setting. Your Ultra's output voltage should be set to 2 Vrms by default and that should be fine.

I would set the 3E AUDIO A5 to BAYPASS mode and forget about its volume control. The digital volume control on the Ultra will provide far better channel balance, especially at low volumes. Plus you keep the convenience of using the remote. The Ultra uses an 8 bit table for volume control and will process audio data up to 24 bit. There won't be any real world resolution loss using the digital volume control.

+1

Although I am in favor of probably using High Gain just to have the headroom available.

 

[harkpabst]

+1

Although I am in favor of probably using High Gain just to have the headroom available.

The high gain position is not really getting you more headroom. The ratio between average and peak power will always be exactly the same. You're just getting a louder output for every position of the volume knob.

The input sensitivity of the 3E AUDIO A5 is 1.75 V (that's for the low gain setting, I did the math), so the output voltage of 2 Vrms is more than enough to get the full output power when needed.

 

[r-36m2]

I would set the 3E AUDIO A5 to BAYPASS mode and forget about its volume control. The digital volume control on the Ultra will provide far better channel balance, especially at low volumes.

Hello!
This question may not be directly related to the topic under discussion, but let me ask anyway.
Do you know how the volume control is organized in the Wiim Ultra?
It's common knowledge that the digital volume control based on the njw1194 is not of high quality. The quality of the PGA2310 and 2311 chips is higher, but the 1194 is used more frequently, especially in equipment claiming to be hi-fi.
If the source volume is somehow controlled internally by the DAC without losing bit depth, that's good. If the source volume control is based on a mediocre digital chip, wouldn't it be better to adjust the volume with a simple potentiometer? Yes, at low levels there will be channel imbalance, but there will be no digital distortion.

 

[lunaria]

I made the mistake of buying an A5se from audiophonics.fr a week ago. I received the initial version and it really, really sucks. I've been told, they only have the broken initial hardware version.
The initial version is complete garbage for general purpose use. It powers off every 5 minutes (when not detecting audio input) with very audible speakers pops. Wakeup takes several seconds.
Even when it sleeps/is in auto power off, it causes random speaker pops every hour or so.
I would strongly advice anyone to make absolutely sure they receive an up to date version when ordering.

If someone has an alternative for buying an up to date hardware version in Europe, I would highly appreciate it. Besides the broken auto power off/standby in the initial version, I like the A5se.

 

[magreen]

I made the mistake of buying a A5se from audiophonics.fr a week ago. I received the initial version and it really, really sucks. I've been told, that is the version they are shipping, no mater what.
The initial version is complete garbage for general purpose use. It powers off every 5 minutes (when not detecting audio input) with very audible speakers pops. Wakeup takes several seconds.
Even when it sleeps/is in auto power off, it causes random speaker pops every hour or so.
I would strongly advice anyone to make absolutely sure they receive an up to date version when ordering.

That's terrible. Maybe 3e Audio can do something to help you.

 

[SMen]

I made the mistake of buying an A5se from audiophonics.fr a week ago. I received the initial version and it really, really sucks. I've been told, they only have the broken initial hardware version.
The initial version is complete garbage for general purpose use. It powers off every 5 minutes (when not detecting audio input) with very audible speakers pops. Wakeup takes several seconds.
Even when it sleeps/is in auto power off, it causes random speaker pops every hour or so.
I would strongly advice anyone to make absolutely sure they receive an up to date version when ordering.

If someone has an alternative for buying an up to date hardware version in Europe, I would highly appreciate it. Besides the broken auto power off/standby in the initial version, I like the A5se.

I have the original A5 (not the SE). Audible speaker pops and random speaker pops is not something I have experienced. If you bought it a week ago, you can return it and get a non se version, and praise Audiophonics for their return policy. Those pops would also suggest a faulty unit.

 

[lunaria]

I will most likely replace the A5se with a Topping Mini 300, hoping/praying that the Topping reliability/broken design issues with PA5 and derivatives have been sorted out.

I haven't pulled the trigger. I would highly appreciate feedback with regards to current Topping hardware reliability (the potted PA5 was an unacceptable failure).

BTW, I'm using a high-end Tripath class D amp with premium air-core inductors right now. It suffers from very noticeable and measurable frequency issues with regards to high quality vintage class AB amps .

 

[harkpabst]

I will most likely replace the A5se with a Topping Mini 300, hoping/praying that the Topping reliability/broken design issues with PA5 and derivatives have been sorted out.

Any reason why?

 

[SlowJim]

I have the mini 300 and have been using it regularly for about 3 months, no issues yet. Doesn't run hot even when cranked up

 

[lunaria]

Any reason why?

I was using the A5se for my computer speakers. The extremely frequent auto power off with pops and a pretty long wakeup delay was really annoying.

 

[harkpabst]

I was using the A5se for my computer speakers. The extremely frequent auto power off with pops and a pretty long wakeup delay was really annoying.

I see. You don't even necessarily need the trigger input on the Mini 300, you just don't want the auto-off.

From the second batch on the 3E AUDIO A series amps allow to disable auto-off, but your amp obviously is from the first batch. I'm not even sure if there has been a second batch of A5se amps. According to some reports here at least Audiphonics still had the first batch in stock not so long ago.

 

[Raiju]

As long as I had the case open, I installed two MuseS02 OpAmps I had around. You can install them without opening the case, but because they have a maximum 30v rating and the amp normally runs 36v max through the op amps it may fry them. The 3e user manual helpfully describes the J30 jumper which allows use of lower voltage op amps without risk. See photo. It sounds great, so did the original.

View attachment 499108

Mine came stock with jumper J30 enabled (30v). Btw you can see the jumper trough the slits on the side without opening the case.

 

[harkpabst]

Mine came stock with jumper J30 enabled (30v). Btw you can see the jumper trough the slits on the side without opening the case.

You mean, a jumper cap was already installed on the header from the factory?

That's unusual. Which opamps have been installed? Do you have the A5 or the A5se?

I just checked my early (PCB revision A, Oct 2024) 3E AUDIO A5 and the header was open, as expected.

It came with two OP1656 as input stage ...

... and a single NE5532 for balanced to SE conversion (not pictured).

 

[Raiju]

That's unusual. Which opamps have been installed? Do you have the A5 or the A5se?

I have the A5 non se, it came stock with opa1612.

I opened up up the case to replace the decoupling capacitors with Elna SIMIC II. Please lets not get into an argument whether this is audible or not, lets just say I have a condition and was compelled to do it. I also checked my A7 by looking through the side and could see J30 was shorted there too. I think 3e audio did it so people don't blow up op amps with swapping.

Anyway, you can see J30, even though the op amps I use are capable of 36V I left it at 30V since I didn't hear a difference.

The caps were partially potted by the black goo.

It took me some time to figure out how to free them but I managed.

Now the family is complete.

 

[harkpabst]

I have the A5 non se, it came stock with opa1612.

That's another interesting thing. Initially, apparently all A5 and A7 had been shipped with OPA1656. It's probably just a matter of availability. @3eaudio had confirmed here ...

3e Audio TPA3251 TPA3255 Finished Amplifier with PFFB is coming!

No additional features, no sub out, no nothing. No power supply options to save 10$ - just offer the biggest one that really supports the specifications - and these should be honest. Overall, a simple product that focuses on quality and power for an affordable price, and just works Fully agree...

www.audiosciencereview.com

... that there's effectively no difference between the two in this application.

I opened up up the case to replace the decoupling capacitors with Elna SIMIC II. Please lets not get into an argument whether this is audible or not, lets just say I have a condition and was compelled to do it. I also checked my A7 by looking through the side and could see J30 was shorted there too. I think 3e audio did it so people don't blow up op amps with swapping.

Yes, that's the most likely reason.

And even for OPA1656/OPA1612 +/- 18 V is at the edge of their operation range. They won't benefit from higher rail voltages, at least with the low voltage swings in this application. Potentially, they could even run a little cooler at +/- 15 V. The NE5532P (if still used in this place in the se models) could benefit just a little from the higher rail voltage, but I won't judge if this makes a meaningful difference.

And no worries, I'm not here for an argument. I just have to ask: Shouldn't the decoupling caps be Elna Simic II from the factory?