3E Audio 260-2-29A : TPA3255 / HA3588 CoilCraft / PFFB Fully differential.

[somebodyelse]

or at least no tariff uncertainty

I don't think anyone can offer you that!

 

[john61ct]

I don't think anyone can offer you that!

Well I've getting Chinese sourced item that state all import fees and taxes are included in the final shipped price

So far so good.

If a listing did NOT state that I'd be loath to use it.

 

[xschop]

Since we are still seeing someone interest in it, we are considering extending the availability period, at least keep making it in 2026

Hi 3E, I've been trying to purchase another one thru Ali store, but now saying doesn't ship to my address.
I'd be glad to paypal you directly, Just PM if you have another available. Thanks again

 

[Kanaz]

Hi everyone,

I wanted to share my DIY mono amplifier build using the 3e Audio 480-1-29A amplifier module with a Mean Well UHP-500-48 power supply.

Parts used​

• Amplifier module: 3e Audio 480-1-29A
• Power supply: Mean Well UHP-500-48
• AC inlet: Furutech FI-06(R) NCF
• Fuse holder: Schurter FPG2
• Fuse: Schurter 4A slow-blow / time-lag fuse
• Power switch: NKK S331
• Power LED: BIVAR MPC6-1WD12V
• Binding posts: Monosaudio BP451G
• Faston terminals: Furutech FT-210(G) Faston Receptacle Terminals
• AC internal wiring: Oyaide 3398-16
• DC wiring from PSU to amplifier module: Oyaide 3398-14
• Speaker output wiring: Oyaide 3398-14

The build is working very well so far. The sound is clean and quiet with no audible noise or hiss in my system.

There is also no turn-on or turn-off pop noise, which was one of my concerns before building it.

The amplifier temperature also stays reasonable during use, and overall the amplifier is easy and comfortable to use.

I know this is not a measurement-based review, but as a DIY build, I am quite satisfied with the result.

 

[YSDR]

I'm considering this amp, but I'm a little hesitant. I'd be curious to see what happens if this amp module is used to drive speakers below 4 ohms. I'd also be interested because the actual impedance of typical nominally 4 ohm speakers often falls below 4 ohms. Also, what happens if the load is around 2 ohms but above that?

 

[john61ct]

My understanding is, the nominal speaker impedance rating is just the starting point, you really need to match the amp to the speakers' actual response at the extremes

especially at low frequencies and approaching the system power limits.

Obviously depends on the speaker model, the room and the max SPL you are looking for.

My LS50s are nominally rated 8Ω, but commonly known to dip down below 4Ω, and I've seen some reports of 3.6Ω

This variance of impedance by frequency is "hard to drive" in the sense that it isn't just Watts power that is required for the amp to get high SPL out of the speaker with clean SQ, but the ability to continue to deliver strong CURRENT (Amps) as the falling impedance forces the Voltage downward.

I am usually told, to get the top range of "maximum safe" SPL out of the LS50, the 3e A7 is "enough". Others say a bit more effective headroom might make a small improvement in that goal, say +3-6 dB (which actually is not small IMO)

I have a GFA-555 to compare as a benchmark once I have REW set up.

To me, the key is that power output rises going from 8 to 4Ω, and the amp is stable not overheating too much right down to 2Ω.

Apparently a decent damping rating is good but not as important.

In general, for the sake of both longevity and SQ, they say not to run (for extended periods) past 80% of capacity.

Also note, if offloading LF duties to speakers designed specifically for bass, and setting a HPF on the main pair, you get much better SQ and SPL performance out of them, while requiring a lot less power.

 

[xschop]

Has anyone implemented a set of VU meters on 260-2-29A ?