• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

3E Audio 260-2-29A : TPA3255 / HA3588 CoilCraft / PFFB Fully differential.

View attachment 311735

Hi amigos,

I'm finally done. I made some last minute changes, using some Japanese shielded cables I had in stock for the speaker connectors. I also had to opt for smaller binding posts given the size of the enclosure. I share again the list of components below.
For those just starting out; patience will be required) It is not always easy to drill the enclosure without suitable equipment... so bring the right tools)

Here is an amplifier which will stand up to The Topping PA5/RA3 with a budget which remains controlled and displays a good Sinad of 105DB (THD+N in 4Ω / F = 1kHz, Po =5W = 0.0007%). As for its reliability, I think taking into account the feedback, we should not be worried. )


Enclosure : Click here
--------------------------------
3E Audio Module : Click here
--------------------------------
PSU (set@42V/6A) : Click here
--------------------------------
Neutrik XLR (Panel Mount) : Click here
--------------------------------
Binding Post : Click here
--------------------------------
Power Switch : Click here
--------------------------------
220V LED : Click here
--------------------------------
Optional (AC filter) :
Click here


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


View attachment 311731
View attachment 311733
Hi Daniboun, and thanks for your passionate posts, very interesting. I have a question on your work that may be silly, but it's coming from a beginner: I see from the datasheet of the PSU you used has a dual output of +48v/-48v, while the 3e datasheet calls for a single power supply with Vdc to GND i.e. +48Vdc - GND. Is my interpretation correct? Whats the trick here?
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2025-05-16 175244.png
    Screenshot 2025-05-16 175244.png
    523.5 KB · Views: 63
  • Screenshot 2025-05-16 175325.png
    Screenshot 2025-05-16 175325.png
    56.8 KB · Views: 61
Hi Daniboun, and thanks for your passionate posts, very interesting. I have a question on your work that may be silly, but it's coming from a beginner: I see from the datasheet of the PSU you used has a dual output of +48v/-48v, while the 3e datasheet calls for a single power supply with Vdc to GND i.e. +48Vdc - GND. Is my interpretation correct? Whats the trick here?
This is a single PSU + - but the output terminal block has just been doubled )
 
This is a single PSU + - but the output terminal block has just been doubled )
That is quite a confusing picture. I would have interpreted that as being 96V
 
That is quite a confusing picture. I would have interpreted that as being 96V
Read the Audiophonics spec ) all described
There are two 48V outputs, so if you decide to use both, you divide the 5A current by two.

 
This is a single PSU + - but the output terminal block has just been doubled )
Allright then ...but in this case the notation of the PSU terminals should read +48 Vdc - GND. Shouldn't it? Just to avoid confusion ...
 
Allright then ...but in this case the notation of the PSU terminals should read +48 Vdc - GND. Shouldn't it? Just to avoid confusion ...
PVDD/Ground as said. Don t worry )))
 
Finally, my exact resistors and capacitors arrived from China, and now I was able to complete my project on the 3e amplifier. After replacing the elements, I really got the sensitivity I needed and the maximum power I needed of 65W per channel without clipping, which was confirmed by measurements. 3e calculated the necessary elements very well! When powered by 43V, the amplifier barely heats up, only the 1656 op-amp heats up, but I think this is normal. SAMP200 at the same supply voltage heated up noticeably more.
Now I am testing the amplifier in different scenarios and modes and I definitely like it more than the SAMP-200!
 

Attachments

  • 1.JPG
    1.JPG
    720.1 KB · Views: 88
  • DSC_3959.JPG
    DSC_3959.JPG
    450 KB · Views: 86
  • DSC_3961.JPG
    DSC_3961.JPG
    518 KB · Views: 85
  • DSC_3978.JPG
    DSC_3978.JPG
    359.9 KB · Views: 88
Hello 3E team! Last time you helped me a lot with sensitivity settings, but there is one problem: when turning off, there is a loud pop. To check, I completely disconnect the inputs and supply only power. I know that there is a PS_CTRL power on/off regulator on the board. I ask for help in supplementing the circuit and correctly implementing this mode, preferably with the ability to delay when turning on and off to eliminate pops. I know that there are separate circuits with relays for such purposes, but I want to implement this using a signal on the PS_CTRL board and ask for a circuit for independently implementing this feature. Perhaps this has already been designed by you, but not implemented, since there are places on the board near the connector for uninstalled elements.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_3994.JPG
    DSC_3994.JPG
    366.8 KB · Views: 42
I apologise in advance for this post. Its long - and to most readers will be very boring and typically newbie! I promise you I have done plenty of reading and expanded my knowledge considerably and not just come here without looking - but there is a lot of information and some of it is contradictory!.

I believe I now know enough to be dangerous! And I therefore need help.. I wish to put together a high end 6 channel power amp - but I can't afford it! So this is my alternative plan..

The new amp will, for now, be fed unbalanced inputs from a Denon AVR in preamp mode, maximum output voltage around 1.5V. Gain required will be limited (pretty small room) but the five speakers (all the same) are not easy to drive. The sixth output/channel will probably not be used.

Components I have in mind excluding the bits and pieces and connectors, case etc :-

3 x 3E AUDIO 260-2-29A PFFB Stereo amplifier Module https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/ampl...lifier-module-tpa3255-btl-2x260w-p-17252.html
3 x Single-Ended to Balanced Converter Module XLR / RCA Stereo https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/sele...-converter-module-xlr-rca-stereo-p-18248.html allows me to use SE inputs and play with opamps, without having to modify the 3E boards . Plus go XLR later as and when I decide to get a "proper" preamp.
1 x MORNSUN LOF550-20B36 SMPS Power Supply Module https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/smps-power-supply/mornsun-lof550-20b36-module-p-18591.html or do I need better "quality" ? More wattage ? Higher voltage? Probably..I suspect
1 x PSU for the opamp boards (+15v-0- -15V) but what and where from? Needs to be over 600mA?

I would like to maintain as much as possible the inherent performance of these boards without getting silly. My current thoughts and worries are
  • Am I on the right track? Or way off the mark?
  • Do I need to set up the slave and master settings on the boards - and/or would I be better going with individual PSU's for each module or ?? . Seems to be conflicting info out there - less wires the better as far as I am concerned.? But I think I understand how the "correct" setting may help the PSU?
  • Have I got a risk of PSU bus pumping anyway withe the boards being BTL? If so?
  • Assume most people would change Opamps for 1612's? How much will these opamp boards/connections drag down the overall amplifier boards performance - I guess not a lot. And my soldering isnt brilliant! :)
If I have got this all wrong, just tell me I'm an idiot - and I'll go and sulk.. and hope you tell me what I should be doing! I don't want to buy a built unit- I want to have a go at putting one together myself.

Incidentally the case I am thinking of using is big. It's a full width 3U rack mount (ADA amplifier currently). Weighing 35kg..I just cant stand the transformer hum anymore - and for what it would cost to fix I can probably build this! Well nearly....

The case is big enough to fit a badger family and their squirrel cousins...so I have room to keep stuff physically spaced out.

Thank you for any help and pointers
 
I apologise in advance for this post. Its long - and to most readers will be very boring and typically newbie! I promise you I have done plenty of reading and expanded my knowledge considerably and not just come here without looking - but there is a lot of information and some of it is contradictory!.

I believe I now know enough to be dangerous! And I therefore need help.. I wish to put together a high end 6 channel power amp - but I can't afford it! So this is my alternative plan..

The new amp will, for now, be fed unbalanced inputs from a Denon AVR in preamp mode, maximum output voltage around 1.5V. Gain required will be limited (pretty small room) but the five speakers (all the same) are not easy to drive. The sixth output/channel will probably not be used.

Components I have in mind excluding the bits and pieces and connectors, case etc :-

3 x 3E AUDIO 260-2-29A PFFB Stereo amplifier Module https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/ampl...lifier-module-tpa3255-btl-2x260w-p-17252.html
3 x Single-Ended to Balanced Converter Module XLR / RCA Stereo https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/sele...-converter-module-xlr-rca-stereo-p-18248.html allows me to use SE inputs and play with opamps, without having to modify the 3E boards . Plus go XLR later as and when I decide to get a "proper" preamp.
1 x MORNSUN LOF550-20B36 SMPS Power Supply Module https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/smps-power-supply/mornsun-lof550-20b36-module-p-18591.html or do I need better "quality" ? More wattage ? Higher voltage? Probably..I suspect
1 x PSU for the opamp boards (+15v-0- -15V) but what and where from? Needs to be over 600mA?

I would like to maintain as much as possible the inherent performance of these boards without getting silly. My current thoughts and worries are
  • Am I on the right track? Or way off the mark?
  • Do I need to set up the slave and master settings on the boards - and/or would I be better going with individual PSU's for each module or ?? . Seems to be conflicting info out there - less wires the better as far as I am concerned.? But I think I understand how the "correct" setting may help the PSU?
  • Have I got a risk of PSU bus pumping anyway withe the boards being BTL? If so?
  • Assume most people would change Opamps for 1612's? How much will these opamp boards/connections drag down the overall amplifier boards performance - I guess not a lot. And my soldering isnt brilliant! :)
If I have got this all wrong, just tell me I'm an idiot - and I'll go and sulk.. and hope you tell me what I should be doing! I don't want to buy a built unit- I want to have a go at putting one together myself.

Incidentally the case I am thinking of using is big. It's a full width 3U rack mount (ADA amplifier currently). Weighing 35kg..I just cant stand the transformer hum anymore - and for what it would cost to fix I can probably build this! Well nearly....

The case is big enough to fit a badger family and their squirrel cousins...so I have room to keep stuff physically spaced out.

Thank you for any help and pointers
Unfortunately, you're on a path that's, as you say, silly.
Stay away from those ridiculous modules; you don't need them with the 3E audio boards.
Do you really think such cheap boards do anything useful in front of the 3E audio amplifiers other than add noise and distortion?
You should really refrain from swapping op amps in such sophisticated amplifiers as these; you'll only make things worse. Replacing op amps is usually pointless, and without adapting the entire circuitry of the op amp, it's the opposite of sensible.

I would use one power supply per amplifier, but 550 watts is too high. 350-400 watts is sufficient. Whether 36/38 or 48 volts depends on what power you need.
You can look for used Mean Well power supplies, for example, on eBay. Maybe you can get something from the HRP series for a good price.

As for your ADA amplifier, see what you can get for a used/broken one. You might be surprised.
 
Unfortunately, you're on a path that's, as you say, silly.
Stay away from those ridiculous modules; you don't need them with the 3E audio boards.
Do you really think such cheap boards do anything useful in front of the 3E audio amplifiers other than add noise and distortion?
You should really refrain from swapping op amps in such sophisticated amplifiers as these; you'll only make things worse. Replacing op amps is usually pointless, and without adapting the entire circuitry of the op amp, it's the opposite of sensible.

I would use one power supply per amplifier, but 550 watts is too high. 350-400 watts is sufficient. Whether 36/38 or 48 volts depends on what power you need.
You can look for used Mean Well power supplies, for example, on eBay. Maybe you can get something from the HRP series for a good price.

As for your ADA amplifier, see what you can get for a used/broken one. You might be surprised.
Roland. Thanks for the reply. I only sulked for an hour... :)

With regard to the opamp boards - either I use the ones I suggested or modify the boards? I need Opamps one way or another to run SE inputs? These boards are not set up for SE input only balanced from reading the manual?

Thanks for the comments on the PSU's - will look into that. Honestly I like the sound of seperate PSU's. Apart from potential ground loops it stops other areas of concern.

The ADA amp is perfect ( long story but I got it 5 years ago and it was new - still in its box and plastic wrapped. ) It is though 20 years old and stuff decays; ask me how I know !? :) . The toroid is crazy loud though and I can hear it in the next room. Unless people have got their AV located somewhere else than their viewing area they wont buy it - they will buy something shiny and new! I haveto say having opened it up the other day I have never ever seen cap's that big! Proper scary!

again thanks for your input
 
Unfortunately, you're on a path that's, as you say, silly.
Stay away from those ridiculous modules; you don't need them with the 3E audio boards.
Do you really think such cheap boards do anything useful in front of the 3E audio amplifiers other than add noise and distortion?
You should really refrain from swapping op amps in such sophisticated amplifiers as these; you'll only make things worse. Replacing op amps is usually pointless, and without adapting the entire circuitry of the op amp, it's the opposite of sensible.

I would use one power supply per amplifier, but 550 watts is too high. 350-400 watts is sufficient. Whether 36/38 or 48 volts depends on what power you need.
You can look for used Mean Well power supplies, for example, on eBay. Maybe you can get something from the HRP series for a good price.

As for your ADA amplifier, see what you can get for a used/broken one. You might be surprised.

..and I just found this thread. Most helpful on PSU's. Thanks.

 
Update and the usual cautionary warning... I have gone with an HRP650-N3 PSU. If that does what its supposed to re peak supply and does it fast enough that should be more than sufficent. Guess only listening will tell me if its OK to me.
Cautionary bit? I blew an amplifier board.. lots of magic smoke. Dont ever think "what happens if I just....." When the amp is still on! Up till that point it had been going swimmingly. :)
Question? Does the 3E board discharge the caps at shutdown or do they remain charged?

I have also gone for the SE to balanced adaptor boards to provide SE inputs. I did the first amplifier board ( that is now defunct) "properly" by fitting 4562's and removing the two resistors. Very pleased with result. But there was a definite level of terror while I was doing it and I just simply figure the chance of me doing the other three without a disaster is close to nil! Plus I will go balanced source at some point and it's a lot easier to unplug stuff than unsolder opamps when I do! I do appreciate I will be taking a hit performance wise. Probably.
 
Back
Top Bottom