The reason i was aiming towards class A is that i have read a lot of information about them being the 'purest sounding' amps that tend not to colour the source with any magic.
Class A does have some advantages, especially if we take into account problems that are, according to audio objectivists mythical because they do not show up in standard Audio Precision tests.
Specifically, Class A Amplifiers, if they truly operate in Class A are free from a number of distortion mechanisms that plague Class AB/B amplifiers and can be quite audible and objectionable.
In the end all amplifiers have distortion and what matters is how audible this distortion is, as well as if there are additional hidden variables that only actualize in a system (like Eddy current induced distortion causing intermodulation in the tweeter voice coil between the signal and the switching frequency residue).
This would be the easy starting point as i want the amp to sound as natural to the recording as possible. I mean, that's the goal right?
I agree it is my personal goal, but I would not assume everyone else has the same goal.
So are we saying that the difference between classes in inaudible?
It is hard to isolate individual specific technical causes for sonic changes, it's a complex topic and often objective measurements only tell part of the story.
To me, an excellent Class D Amplifier can subjectively sound better than a mediocre Class A amplifier.
Once certain levels of excellence are achieved, sound quality becomes similar. So it is less "what the designer does" (Class A, Class AB, Class D) and "how the designer does it".
The reason for the 300 watts, is to drive some RF-7 floor standers I have my eye on.
The RF-7III seem to be 93dB/2.83V/1m with an impedance that drops below 3 Ohm.
If we go by THX recommended levels we want 105dB @ 0dBFS. As music is usually more correlated that uncorrelated between channels we can expect a stereo pair to output ~ 3-4 dB SPL more than a single speaker. For 4m distance we get a worst case 12dB drop in SPL (less in reality).
So a stereo pair at 4m will produce 84-85dB @ 1W. I would get an amplifier that offers at least 10W in class A into 4 Ohm and 200W 4Ohm per channel minimum.
Others commented on Parasound, most of their amplifiers are John Curl designs and rather good. Second hand they tend to be affordable. I'd look for relatively early production that used lateral MOSFET drivers with Bipolar outputs, this combination has some advantages in terms of thermal behavior.
I'd look for the biggest and most high powered designs with the largest number of output pairs. Each pair tends to be biased at around 100mA (for a range of reasons) and each extra pair of output transistors gives more "class A" so having 5 output pairs gives up to 1A peak on Class A, or 2W Class A into 4Ohm.
An additional option that will allow reduced distortion is to biamplify the Speakers. The HF Amplifier only drives the HF driver and crossover. This means at low frequencies where the bulk of the power for music resides the amplifier operates in effect unloaded. This means all class A power is used only in the treble and overall distortion in the HF region is lowered, even if passive crossovers are used.
Equally, the LF sections lowpass will remove some distortion components from the woofer and they will not be reproduced, while with a single amplifier they will be produced by the tweeter.
So rather than a pair of high power Class A Amplifiers, if you can find them at all, a pair of well designed, medium power class AB , Amplifiers biamplifying your speakers may give better results.
Ages ago Luxman (I think) offered wat was essentially the same amplifier in two versions, one 200W 4R Class AB and one 50W 8R Class A to be used biamplifying passive speakers. Good idea BTW.
While here Class D Amplifiers are the fashion, in my experience and personally I prefer well designed Class AB or Class Amplifiers in most cases.
So don't buy Class D "blind", audition with the actual Speakers you want to use and use "loud, complex" music that challenges especially HF clarity when playing loud. Make sure to compare a decent Class AB Amplifier, level matched. Go with what you like better.
Thor