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3 Way bookshelf the easy way

If it does not model baffle position of drivers, then these 2 models are seen as coincident and therefore easier to get phase alignment.
I don't know the program.
However, there are other things your sim does not do correctly or account for.
It does everything
 
... besides that little hole in the lower corner on the right side seen from the front ... is it a mousetrap?
Its best to fit a mesh just incase, we wouldn't want that would we ;)
 
Initially I thought one can make a decent two way with cheap readily available woofers other than use Purifi woofers but Danny pointed out to me that using those cheap woofers beyond 200hz might result in stored energy, higher distortion and harmonics , bad off axis behavior etc etc am not saying others haven't done it for around 100 dollars a pair however there's only so much those can do. So it seems 3way is unavoidable if one wants to cheap it and still take on 100,000 dollar floor standers.

I had an interesting experience last week that politely reminded me that in setting up a sound system, the amplifier has the highest impact and significance. That is closely followed by the source and then the speaker.
1. Amplifier
2. Source
3. Speaker
 
I had an interesting experience last week that politely reminded me that in setting up a sound system, the amplifier has the highest impact and significance. That is closely followed by the source and then the speaker.
1. Amplifier
2. Source
3. Speaker
I don't quite get the punchline of this joke.... :oops:
 
In any case, my order would be as follows:

- Room
- Speakers
...
...
...
...
- Amplifier
- Source

Of course, this assumes that you don't get lost in esotericism.
 
In any case, my order would be as follows:

- Room
- Speakers
...
...
...
...
- Amplifier
- Source

Of course, this assumes that you don't get lost in esotericism.
Ground truths change theory sometimes. There are many bad amplifiers out there and many good amplifiers. Different people process audio differently. Most consumers aren't really analytical to sound. Even a good amplifier with a bad source can make the good amplifier bad especially if its faithful. The least harm item in the chain is then the speaker.
 
A video showing simulated and measured results of boxsim, where the measurements were done below 200hz isn't discussed whether in room, field, hall , anechoic chamber etc.
 
Is the video showing yourself?

I wonder why you didn't acknowledge the midrange's excessive output around 100Hz. And also the vertical directivity is less than mediocre, it gets way too narrow at the tweeter's xover frequency. Not the least, the woofer runs up a lot more than initially intended. I still think that the result would not improve on what a KEF R3 could do for you. It costs around 1k a piece, and it is ready to use with a truely acceptable finish. I would suggest that it superseeds--just technically, the most elaborated DIY speakers of comparable size hands down. And then again, consider the looks. And the protective grille ;-)
 
Merry Christmas.
Here's a comparable new 3 way vintage V2 by sound blab, with comparable XO
improved XO.png

improved spl.png

improved spl angles.png

improved power.png

box.png
 
Nope again, that tweeter will not play to 1kHz.
Sure, but actually the filter is quite shallow too. It won't do. A second problem is a quite common one. The filter tends to steer the clean(er) direction in regard to vertical dispersion downward, "bottom" as they say. A least me would rather walk around, heads up high, than lying on the floor ;-) But as said, that's a common issue with commercial speakers also. Nowadays, as we got that demanding, I personally think a worthwhile DIY speaker should address that in order to distinguish itself from the industry's sloppy --as we DIYers feel it--attempts. Flip positions of mid and tweeter?

And still the midrange suffers from too much engagement at 150Hz or so. Try to use a plain resistor parallel to it, or some bigger, high(er) R inductor. DIY is hard to justify: consider to get a (used) KEF R3 (non meta). Dismantle it, paint to liking, and in case to be used w/o the protective grille, address the 6kHz hickup, reassemble, done for a very long time
 
Sure, but actually the filter is quite shallow too. It won't do. A second problem is a quite common one. The filter tends to steer the clean(er) direction in regard to vertical dispersion downward, "bottom" as they say. A least me would rather walk around, heads up high, than lying on the floor ;-) But as said, that's a common issue with commercial speakers also. Nowadays, as we got that demanding, I personally think a worthwhile DIY speaker should address that in order to distinguish itself from the industry's sloppy --as we DIYers feel it--attempts. Flip positions of mid and tweeter?

And still the midrange suffers from too much engagement at 150Hz or so. Try to use a plain resistor parallel to it, or some bigger, high(er) R inductor. DIY is hard to justify: consider to get a (used) KEF R3 (non meta). Dismantle it, paint to liking, and in case to be used w/o the protective grille, address the 6kHz hickup, reassemble, done for a very long time
After months of DIY modeling I actually thought a used Kef R3 meta coax would be worthwhile to strip and design a speaker around! Haha.

Alas, I said no, I want my own finish, and my own design, and I will spend a long time and good money building it. The experience, and joy is in the journey, not the destination

And yes, @modulardesign your design principles need help - you're unnecessarily chasing flat FR, and will induce so much distortion playing drivers out of optimal range.

Your tweeters peaks in FR are due to the midrange breakup.
 
Happy new year 2026
Maybe for a design with a more high end impedance curve where there's less distortion in the 6k region
box.png

XO.png

SPL.png


phase.png

power.png

directivity.png

spl angles.png

tweeter.png

mid.png

woofer.png

EVD.png

DV.png

DH.png
 
A mod for the above design if one is worried about their speaker cables and any audible differences between speaker cable types, however at audio frequencies and home listening environment cable runs, mod may not be necessary for say 50 ohm to 600 ohm cables
XO_II.png

SPL_II.png
 
I think you have been asked several times here and on diyaudio...can you share the actual measurements (SPL on and off axis, distortion at 86dB and 96dB, farfield, nearfield and port) on any of these designs? Otherwise these posts seem kind of like spam.
 
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