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3-way Bookshelf or Floor Standing 5.1 Surround System vs. Room Size

dped90

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I want to build a 5.1 surround sound system. The main speakers would be a 3-way rather than two-way design for the performance reasons cited in the video here. https://www.axiomaudio.com/m5-bookshelf-speakers

The 5-channel Class AB power amp
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4qWPQyxK7XD/p_313A52PB/Parasound-Halo-A-52.html https://www.stereophile.com/content/music-round-91-parasound-halo-52-page-2 driving those five speakers will feed the unbalanced inputs of a multichannel DAC like this one. https://www.exasound.com/Products/e688-channelDAC.aspx

And the DAC’s balanced inputs would be fed by two pairs of these powered subs https://jamesromeyn.com/speakers/subwoofers/ak-tall-subs/ or two pairs of these powered subs. https://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12SE.html

A standalone or software assisted DSP solution for bass management and room correction will be added later.

Presumably, the problem of classifying the “acoustically relevant” size of my listening room is that its basic dimensions spill over and extend into other rooms. And because it does so-and because there’s probably little that I can do to acoustically correct for this-how much will negatively impact sound quality?

My Listening Room

Width: 11 feet. But it then extends across a ~3.5 ft wide hallway, and which is ~ 14 feet long where the three doors can be closed there. Then one foot past that hallway my listening room then empties into the kitchen that extends the total width by another 8 ft. And the kitchen length is ~ 10 ft. Then immediately past the kitchen wall the room’s width crosses past a 4 ft. wide L-shaped downstairs staircase, which extends my room’s 11-foot room width by another 11 feet, before turning to go further downstairs.

Windows. My room has three bay windows all on one wall which I usually keep closed and draped.

Length: Just under 20 ft.

Height: Triangular ceiling. Apex 11 ft that declines to 8 ft.

Therefore, given my room’s “effective size” and acoustical environment should I choose five 3-way bookshelf speakers, each placed on a ~20” high platform on the floor?

Or some combination of 3-way bookshelf and 3-way floor standing speakers?
 

Doodski

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Have you considered a class D amp for your system. It is far more efficient and can have much more wattage output that the Parasound A-52.
 
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dped90

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Have you considered a class D amp for your system. It is far more efficient and can have much more wattage output that the Parasound A-52.
I confess that I'm sort of prejudiced in favor of Class A, AB amps, like my Pass Labs amps. Besides, again, as per room size and preferred listening levels above my subs, I don't see how I would need any 5-channel amp with higher output than this Parasound.
 

phoenixdogfan

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If you have the cash, maybe five Kef R3s which are 3-ways should work well. The Parasound is a big horse which they should be able to ride well.
 

Doodski

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I confess that I'm sort of prejudiced in favor of Class A, AB amps, like my Pass Labs amps. Besides, again, as per room size and preferred listening levels above my subs, I don't see how I would need any 5-channel amp with higher output than this Parasound.
Class D amps time has come. The technology is mature and ripened and as good or better than class A/AB. Class A is very very inefficient and in todays world it is gimmicky. For example a custom amp can be built using two different choices of amp modules as follows:>>>

1)
NC252MP Specs (all channels driven):
180w per channel @ 2ohms
250w per channel @ 4ohms
150w per channel @ 8ohms

2)
NC502MP Specs (all channels driven):
450w per channel @ 2ohms
500w per channel @ 4ohms
350w per channel @ 8ohms

Either is more than enough power output but the NC502MP is only $170 more per stereo module for much more power and much better drive at 2 Ohms speaker resistance.
Some prices are here.
If you like they are also available in 37 different finishes including a anodized case if you like that sort of stuff.
 
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dped90

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If you have the cash, maybe five Kef R3s which are 3-ways should work well. The Parasound is a big horse which they should be able to ride well.
Thanks for this. https://us.kef.com/products/r3 I wish I could jump on a deal like that now but need to ask more questions and deal with other concerns.

But what I don't get is that if you look at the prices of even the larger models of KEF's R series they are barely any more than the R3. Why would that be?

Btw, for the kind of 5.1 system configuration I described above, what are your recommendations for speaker cables and balanced and unbalanced line cables?
 
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phoenixdogfan

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Thanks for this. https://us.kef.com/products/r3 I wish I could jump on a deal like that now but need to ask more questions and deal with other concerns.

But what I don't get is that if you look at the prices of even the larger models of KEF's R series they are barely any more than the R3. Why would that be?

Btw, for the kind of 5.1 system configuration I described above, what are your recommendations for speaker cables and balanced and unbalanced line cables?
I would recommend Canare 4s11 which I use in my system. Available from Amazon or BH Photo. Around $120 for an 8 ft pair terminated. Benchmark sells the exact same cable to pair with its state of the art AHB2 amplifier. Any number of inexpensive, basic cables (including Amazon basics) will work every bit as well.

Mogami for balanced or unbalanced should work well. Ditto Monoprice. Also Amazon basics should be ok for interconnects.

As long as these cables and interconnects are well designed they will work perfectly well, and they can be had for far less than the heavily marketed audiophile cable. Which is why you should never buy high priced audiophile cable by AudioQuest, Nordost, Transparent, MIT, Cardas or any other brand--unless you are partial to the cosmetics of brightly colored garden hose sized wires in your living room that cost up to $60k an 8 ft pair.

Almost all basic cables work perfectly fine. The audiophile cable may actually be designed to alter the signal, rather than being a uncolored conduit to the amplifier, so they convey no audible sonic benefit despite their outlandish claims.

The R3s are short for Ref 3's. They are, I believe, a different series which has a better, deader cabinet and better drivers. The Ref 3 has been very favorably reviewed (including by Amir and Erin's Audio Corner), is nearly full range, will play loud, and more resembles a tower speaker in its sonics than almost any other bookshelf out there. It's a premium product, and, fairly priced. The R11 is a good speaker, but it uses more basic parts. But you should audition both b/c you may find R11s could be more suited to your use case.
 
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dped90

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The R3s are short for Ref 3's. They are, I believe, a different series which has a better, deader cabinet and better drivers. The Ref 3 has been very favorably reviewed (including by Amir and Erin's Audio Corner), is nearly full range, will play loud, and more resembles a tower speaker in its sonics than almost any other bookshelf out there. It's a premium product, and, fairly priced. The R11 is a good speaker, but it uses more basic parts. But you should audition both b/c you may find R11s could be more suited to your use case.
Thanks for the heads up on speaker and line cable. It can be difficult to avoid be seduced by the hype. https://www.passdiy.com/project/articles/speaker-cables

To be clear, that speaker is from the R series, which is apparently a big step below the Reference series, at least in price. https://us.kef.com/collections/the-reference Too bad that two pairs of the least costly of those would bust my budget. https://us.kef.com/products/reference-1-bookshelf-speaker But the review of the R3 looks promising. https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/kef_r3/
 
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