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2x250 W class D alternatives

M

Mschn

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Some examples:
Discuss/explain while I scratch my head.

I am thinkin one of these alternatives (or something simmilar) fed by a WiiM Ultra or a Minidsp Flex might be a good replacement for my ailing amplifier. But I am also thinking something like a Yamaha A-S701 (Rotel A14 mkII??) is a safer if less flexible bet. Or this intergated class D?

/Martin
 
Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm not understanding what your actual question is here? Are you just asking us to pick a 2-channel class D amp for you? What are your requirements?
 
Sorry about the confusion. I was posting late. I now realise the information added for context is not helpful.

What I am puzzled by is the price range of products that are all claimed to perform the same (loosely speaking). Different business models? Different Watts? Different what???

Please leave out the bs about built in XX vs built in YY. I have 30+ years of experience of working for a company with manufacturing and engineering in different countries and I assure you that all the common stereotypes (pun intended) about countries and continents are wrong.

/Martin
 
Mschn said:
and I assure you that all the common stereotypes (pun intended) about countries and continents are wrong
Click to expand...
But how about the multichanneltypes?
N.B. this is my way of agfirming your pun, no more and no less. :)
 
Mschn said:
What I am puzzled by is the price range of products that are all claimed to perform the same (loosely speaking)
Click to expand...
Yes, I feel the same way.
What I think you should look out for in amplifiers based on the Ti TPA3255
a good circuit board
good components (capacitors etc.) with high dielectric strength, so that you can try out the range up to approx. 50V by replacing/adding the power supply unit
good cooling
an implementation of PFFB

In this area you can let off steam and buy an O-Noorus D1 (95 euros when ordering directly from O-Noorus with a 36V power supply) or you can (possibly) get even better quality with Aiyima or Fosi monoblocks or amplifiers from 3e or Sylph Audio, or even build a Sylph or 3e Audio board yourself with selected high-quality peripheral components.

Unfortunately, I cannot (yet) tell you whether the O-Noorus D1 sounds as good or as bad as a 3e A7 with the same power supply.
But I'll try to find out.

The other amplifiers you mentioned, based on Hypex or Purifi modules, have a completely different and much more expensive design.
 
I am willing to pay for sound quality and reliability but not expensive design.

/Martin
 
Mschn said:
I am willing to pay for sound quality and reliability but not expensive design.
Click to expand...
IMO your best bet is probably square in the middle of your list: the Audiophonics uses Ncore modules that perform well, have more than enough power, and don't have any reliability issues that I'm aware of. The ones lower on the list would sound identical up to their limits, but there have been questions of reliability on those lower cost units, particularly with the Topping.

Although if it were me, I'd save my money and just get the Fosi (I would just get the stereo version rather than the monoblocks, in fact, but nothing at all wrong with the monos).
 
I would recommend the Yamaha AS-701. It offers great flexibility with multiple inputs and tactile bass and treble controls. The loudness function is particularly impressive, as it compensates for how we perceive different frequencies at varying volumes -truly a brilliant feature.

Not only does it look attractive, so you won't have to hide it away in a closet, but its design is also well-established, ensuring good longevity. Plus, in my area, the resale value of these newer classic models tends to be better.
 
The Ti chip ams in your list are basically the same. So there the choice would be for the features. The fosi is a pure monoblock where the 3e and topping offer volume control. The topping offers a 12v trigger where the other 2 offer auto on/off based on input signal. I personally just bought the 3e a7. I think the topping is slightly overpriced compared to the other 2.
The audiophonics is as mentioned before a completely different amplifier (hypex) also in a different form factor. It represents more of a hifi amp vs a desktop amp.
 
Mschn said:
I am willing to pay for sound quality and reliability but not expensive design.
Click to expand...
By design, I meant the electronic design, not the external design.
The circuits are completely different and not based on the TPA3255.
If you have a speaker with a good impedance response and high efficiency, you will achieve very good results with the amplifiers from the 3255 range, regardless of whether you are playing at your desk or in your living room.
If you have impedance-critical loudspeakers with low efficiency, more voltage-stable amplifiers from the Class D Purifi and Hypex range or with an AB or H circuit are preferable.
 
Mschn said:
Some examples:
Discuss/explain while I scratch my head.

I am thinkin one of these alternatives (or something simmilar) fed by a WiiM Ultra or a Minidsp Flex might be a good replacement for my ailing amplifier. But I am also thinking something like a Yamaha A-S701 (Rotel A14 mkII??) is a safer if less flexible bet. Or this intergated class D?

/Martin
Click to expand...
"250W" into what load? An amplifier which can deliver 250W into an 8Ω will be different than one into 4Ω or 2Ω.
 
Dynacord L1800FD AB class PA with FIR & PEQ, performance is just good enough and it does 2x250W sustainable 8 Ohms of course and not load dependent (down to 2 Ohms). Price is about 750~800 €. Take a look inside.

audiosciencereview.com

I need help for select my next stereo amplifier

@restorer-john off topic but what do you think about those L and C series Dynacords? They seam very decently made to me, I have to check real software (DSP) capabilities and price isn't bad either. https://products.dynacord.com/na/en/l1300fd/ Looks quite decent...
audiosciencereview.com audiosciencereview.com
 
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HaveMeterWillTravel said:
"250W" into what load? An amplifier which can deliver 250W into an 8Ω will be different than one into 4Ω or 2Ω.
Click to expand...
Refreshing my memory by clicking the links I provided I find, in order of appearance:
  • 240 W into 4 Ohm
  • 250 W into 4 Ohm
  • 245 W into 4 Ohm
  • 250 W into 4 Ohm
  • 250 W into 4 Ohm
  • 230 W into 4 Ohm
/Martin
 
Has home audio switched over to having 4Ω speakers as the standard? It used to be home audio was 8Ω and car audio was 4Ω for the most part. Thou car subs often were "dual voice coil" and JL Audio had their dual 3Ω system.
 
I tried the Fosi V3 monos, Topping B100 mono blocks, and the Topping PA7 Plus with the Wiim Ultra. I ended up choosing the Topping PA7 Plus. I like how clean it sounds. The Fosi's started to distort at about 85 db. The PA7 Plus goes a bit louder.
 
HaveMeterWillTravel said:
Has home audio switched over to having 4Ω speakers as the standard? It used to be home audio was 8Ω and car audio was 4Ω for the most part. Thou car subs often were "dual voice coil" and JL Audio had their dual 3Ω system.
Click to expand...
4 Ohm speakers have been very common for decades, especially in Europe. Even many 6 or 8 Ohm rated ones have minimum impedances around 4-5 Ohm or even less, and are therefore mislabeled.

The 4 Ohm power rating is important under these circumstances.
 
Heck, some of Edgar Villchur's classic Acoustic Research acoustic suspension loudspeakers were 4 ohms and not terribly sensitive -- and not particularly easy to drive. Other AR loudspeakers (I am thinking of the famous/infamous AR-LST in particular) were just plain hard to drive.

1739413854057.png

source: https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/1964_radioshack_catalog.html

plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose
;)
 
MT_bassbone said:
I tried the Fosi V3 monos, Topping B100 mono blocks, and the Topping PA7 Plus with the Wiim Ultra. I ended up choosing the Topping PA7 Plus. I like how clean it sounds. The Fosi's started to distort at about 85 db. The PA7 Plus goes a bit louder.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Topping PA7+ and Fosi V3 Mono measure very simmilar in Amirm's lab. The differences I find when comparing makes me think I would not be able to hear any difference.

/Martin
 
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I would rule out the 3e Audio offerings (for now) because their auto sensing feature is poorly implemented (not sensitive enough for low-level listening). It's a shame because they're supposed to sound very good. The auto sensing issues should be addressed with the next batch of A5/A7.

Any of Audiophonics Hypex Ncore NC252MP based amps come with 12v trigger and are still a very solid choice. 3e Audio are apparently working on a similar offering with 12v trig and built-in PSU, supposed to arrive later this year.

The Eversolo DMP-F2 was on my wishlist as well, but seems to get mixed reviews.

WiiM have yet to announce it officially, but they have the Vibelink amplifier coming out soon. With 2x 100W into 8ohm it's got plenty of power.
 
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