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2x2 interface, which to choose

If you’re using the XLR output, then yes, you’ll need it.
That’s just if you’re using the USB-output, which I’m not going to do.

Using it for YouTube / streaming.

the USB output will be totally fine for that. Just watch some reviews.
SM7B is totally overkill.
 
@sweetchaos Did you check out Julian Krause's measurements on YouTube yet? They're very in-depth, honestly more than Amir's.

Here are his most up-to-date rankings/comparison charts WRT Mic input and HP output:
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Though I highly recommend you check out the full reviews of your shortlisted models.

The Gen 4 has very high output impedance (50Ω), so a poor choice for IEMs which have often quite variable impedance.
See here:

Also, the M2 has a concerning issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=2532&v=gMuA-2FbJxE
Where do you download those charts from, by the way ?
Screen capture on video is always blurred.
 
I’m looking for the same product and stumbled on this video. It’s not quite scientific, but it’s better than most and there’s lots of practical advice thrown in.


 
For recording voice on a budget, any generation of 2i2 would be a good choice imo. I had a gen 1 for years and it was ok for mixing even full bands while I was getting started in audio production.

Mind you, as I got better, older and wiser, I definitely found the hard limits of the 2i2. But for podcasting, I really don't think you'll go wrong even finding a gen 1 or gen 2 for next to nothing (if you are on an extreme budget) on marketplace or whatever your community uses for selling used stuff. The limits of these interfaces, as I've experienced in practise, is more in listening, recording and mixing music, which covers much much more of the audio spectrum than single voices.

Also, I liked how they are all class compliant ... So no drivers needed for mac.
 
I’m looking for the same product and stumbled on this video. It’s not quite scientific, but it’s better than most and there’s lots of practical advice thrown in.


I know this is kinda changing the subject but I can't click on a video if the reviewer posed himself in YouTube chin-scratch face for the thumbnail.

Fwiw, cus the question is a month old now, MOTU M2 or M4. Until recently all my mics had low output and M2 was the first interface I used that has insignificant noise when the preamps are set to max gain. And the user interface/ergonoics is very nice.
 
The M4 has better output performance than the M2, but both have low noise pre-amps on the input side. If affordability is an issue, the M2 is a great starting point, and gives a lot of bang for buck for being sub $200.

After watching the video to the end, he does an interesting test that seems to show the M2 having issues with distortion being added to at least the line inputs while recording as the headphone volume is turned up. That's no good.

I'm curious about his other tests, especially the listening test he did - some of those interfaces don't have great readings on the headphone outputs, especially for impedance. Low-impedance (as close to 0 as possible) headphone outputs with plenty of power is what you want. An Impedance of 4ohm can drive headphones at or above 32ohms cleanly, but many budget interfaces have a headphone output impedance of 10ohm or more. So they are going to color up headphones if the Headphone impedance is less than 100ohm, or any part of the frequency spectrum that falls below 100ohm
 
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The M4 has better output performance than the M2, but both have low noise pre-amps on the input side. If affordability is an issue, the M2 is a great starting point, and gives a lot of bang for buck for being sub $200.

After watching the video to the end, he does an interesting test that seems to show the M2 having issues with distortion being added to at least the line inputs while recording as the headphone volume is turned up. That's no good.

I'm curious about his other tests, especially the listening test he did - some of those interfaces don't have great readings on the headphone outputs, especially for impedance. Low-impedance (as close to 0 as possible) headphone outputs with plenty of power is what you want. An Impedance of 4ohm can drive headphones at or above 32ohms cleanly, but many budget interfaces have a headphone output impedance of 10ohm or more. So they are going to color up headphones if the Headphone impedance is less than 100ohm, or any part of the frequency spectrum that falls below 100ohm
Another YouTuber, Julian Krause (who mostly does not but sometimes does [tut tut, Jools] pull a YouTube face for his thumbnails) also has an M2 and/or M4 technical review.
 
JK's review of the M2 was mostly positive, but he also recommends the upgrade to the M4 since it's not much more and the headphone out is better. I don't think he caught the thing with the headphone volume causing issues with distortion in the inputs on the M2 either. It's a weird one though.
 
To close the loop on my choice, I went with the Topping e2x2 OTG and ordered from Audiofonics. It arrived faster than an earlier order of a DAC from the jungle site. Haven’t tried it yet, but it’s here and I’m looking forward to playing with it tonight.

I went with it based on the Krause measurements compared with Amir’s and my budget of roughly $200. We are lucky that there are so many options in that category!
 
I have a first generation Scarlett and zero problems with it. The newer ones are probably even better. I'd pick the Focusrite.
 
Watch the frequency response of your topping from 20-50hz. It looks close to a Bandxall curve set to cut in the extreme low end of human hearing.

Screenshot_20240728-002742.png

Using a shelving EQ (minimum complexity solution) in that range and making it end with +0.5db at 20hz can help you better accurately judge low sub bass on your listening system.

Decent Headphones can hit 20hz easily, especially with EQ correction, but 39-50hz is more of an audible concern. Below 40hz is mostly thump and rumble, and typically not a lot of fundamental frequencies, even in bass heavy genres.

If you've got really good neutral headphones, or a kickin' listening system with subs that can produce strong bass below 40hz and let you feel bass below 20hz, you'll either notice the difference of this tweak, or you'll include the move one way or another in your decisions since this is the hardware-related response of the preamp

Fwiw I've found that Many consumer subs don't go down past 40hz. And around 60hz is often the loudest frequency between 20-60hz on apartment-focused soundbars like the Bose Solo.
 
Getting the Topping’s drivers to install on Windows 11 was a nightmare of dialogue boxes and menu settings, btw. It’s up now, but it set off every malware alarm on the entire system and took several restarts to accomplish. Super sketchy if I’m being honest.
 
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