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Nope,that's not enough to cause so much damage. Is that the amp alone,with nothing connected?

If one wants to see how these modes look like here they are: We're talking 60db and 40db SINAD for Transistor and Tube. (that could put some SINAD chasers to rest and it's ironic to happen by a SINAD champion)

You will put the pointer dial to the yellow area I marked (start with the lowest one 200 mV and go up if it's not enough) Then place each of the two probes on each amp speaker binding post (one on + and one on - ) WITHOUT ONE TOUCHING THE OTHER and see what the screen shows. Then repeat with...

...and may them be for another 15! That's why I said some and not all. And even then,cheap or expensive,western or eastern,I would certainly rely on the company to compensate me for their (proven) fault for all damages. Not all of them would,and a bad sign is asking for shipping fees for...

You probably don't read the threads about it. Multiple failures,not one,with amps burning headphones,a couple with DACs going nuts at 0db,etc. Problem with these reports are that people hesitate to publish them as the reselling value of their gear will go to zero afterwards.

I would also explore a nice AB ala LA90 with a decent 105-110db SINAD,,nice and even THD+N vs Frequency and power,efficient SMPS PSU,etc. That's what's missing.

Problem with some cheap gear is not about themselves. Is about what they can cause up and down the chain. If their fault stay on them fine,but it's not fine at all if they burn speakers,headphones and deaf our ears,specially the later.

Stereo Purifi for $300 is simply unrealistic. Maybe even double that won't do it.

Please get a multimeter and measure it on DC scale. Even a cheap one will do.

ok.to make it simple: One wire must go to center pin one wire must go to tab The same with the other rca. The wire from center from the one RCA plug must go to to center pin of the other RCA the wire from the tab of the one RCA must go to the tab of the other RCA. Make sure no core touches...

The way I see it it's not where it's made but under what standards. I have seen VERY high quality PCBs from eastern countries but there was something like 5 times the price of normal ones. It's what each company asks for really. Western certifications is a nice hint though,specially when it...

What you can do is take half of the core of each cable,insulate it some other way (heatshrink,etc) and make a proper connection (one to positive,the other to shield on each end) Make sure not to mix them,go positive to positive and shield to shield.

I'm curious to see them,can you post a picture?

You mean by it's gain settings? Yes,that's a good way to do it.

I would think something like the Schiit Kara or similar,depending your configuration.specially if you live in US. You can go a lot cheaper with voltage dividers,etc but you must take care not to mismatch impedance and can go pretty technical. Other members can help with the later as they know a...

Any scheme that involves a volume control straight to power amps has to have fail safe measures. During time a (rare) glitch,operator fault,etc can cause a system to go to 0db with all the consequences one can imagine. And a device like a DAC or anything that defaults to 0db after a glitch does...

Straight from RME here and here. To make it easier I quote the two posts: (I bolded the interesting parts) So we now have couple of explanations.

There's no studio driving serious speakers and subs straight from a DAC. There's no fail-safe and guard in this scheme. RME is for the pro market,don't confuse it with stuff that will be discontinued in couple of years.

No,no,here's a dutch shop,there are all over the world,I have found them everywhere. https://www.dutchexpatshop.com/en/brands/swiffer/

The lady who help us stay clean has a good answer to that: https://www.swiffer.com/en-us/shop-products/dusting/ I would be lost without this stuff,they are gentle with stuff and they pick even the tiniest bit of dust,I get the big family pack whenever I find it.