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Does anyone know more about the amplifiers used in the Seven? All I have found so far is a reference to "600 watts amplification".

@napilopez posted ASR-style spinorama measurements of them here... https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/dutch-dutch-8c-quasi-anechoic-spinorama-and-measurements.12111/

Yes. You can just flip the power switch on the back of each speaker to turn them off completely. However, if you prefer you can put them to sleep instead using the input selection pushbutton on the back panel.

...To integrate subwoofers you can level match, implement high and low pass filters as required, align phase of subs with each other and with the main speakers and then finally run Dirac Live over the top.

Pretty much, yes. Technically, Dirac Live is a little more sophisticated than PEQ, but they both tackle the same problem. Both are capable of impressive results.

Dutch & Dutch 8c active speakers available in black oak finish for immediate delivery (normally about 6 weeks). Latest specification in sealed boxes. £10,950 including delivery and calibration, either in person or remote (depending on your preference and local COVID restrictions)...

There is no reason why you couldn't use Dirac Live instead of the speakers' built-in parametric EQ. Dirac arguably has a shallower learning curve and, if you run it on most miniDSP processors anyway, you gain some convenience features like a volume knob, remote control and additional analogue...

Yes.

In theory, you should use the speakers' built-in volume control for best results. In practice, using Roon or another high quality digital volume control (for example the SHD Studio) is no problem at all.

Pretty much, yes. As far as Roon or the NUC is concerned, it looks like any other USB Audio Class 2 device or in other words like a USB DAC connected directly to the NUC. It will show up as a directly connected device rather than a Roon Ready endpoint, but you just select it and configure it as...

You just spent the best part of £11k on a superb pair of speakers. It would be a shame to hamstring them with a compromised source. The Audiophonics AES HAT seems to be about £40, which is roughly the same cost as the Neutrik impedance transformer I mentioned earlier. The PI2AES HAT is about...

Better to use an AES HAT if you can find one. If you do use an S/PDIF HAT then use an impedance transformer rather than an S/PDIF to AES cable. Neutrik makes one that can be plugged straight into the back of the first speaker in the chain.

It is configurable. There are two settings. Typically, I use -10dBV for single ended and +4dBu for balanced.

Next time just hit refresh in your browser and everything should be fine again.

There is a standby mode which you can control via the web app or using the input selection pushbutton on the back panel of each speaker. Alternatively, you can use the rocker switches to switch them off completely. When you switch them back on again they will pick up where you left off.

They image exceptionally well. They effectively eliminate the front wall as a first reflection point, they direct less sound at the side walls and what sound is reflected off the side walls has a tonal balance which is closer to the direct sound than conventional designs. All of this helps to...

When you adjust the volume using an analogue preamplifier, the levels of both noise and signal are reduced proportionately. A digital volume control works by mathematically scaling each sample to change its level. The noise level does not change. Therefore turning down the volume has the effect...

With a digital volume control, the signal to noise ratio gets worse as you turn down the volume.

I would say that it depends on what you plan to use in front of the speakers. I am a Dutch & Dutch dealer. When I set them up for customers with an existing analogue preamp, streaming DAC or digital source with volume control, I normally suggest experimenting with a couple of options. 1. Set...

My best guess is they’ll go for some sort of audio over Ethernet integration.