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If the comparison is the F226be, I understand the BE version also has a different design in the midwoofer (outlined in Erin's review of the 226be) giving a larger diameter diaphram relative to the surround which increases efficiency, etc... Or perhaps I'm just trying to justify my purchase...

Similar road I went down, started with JBL-HDI3800 great sound reproduction and dynamics but too "focused" ->KEF (just not for my taste in my room, narrow dispersion maybe?)-> F226BE + 3 subs + miniDSP + MSO = Clean w/Dynamics of the JBL's + Wide stage. Simply awesome every time I turn the...

The only way to be comfortable with your choice is trial in your room if that's possible. All of these are too expensive to purchase without this. I own the F226BE and have trialed various KEF. They have very different sound signatures and I found I preferred that of the Revel. The F226...

That's my recollection, mod 6 was inductors and made cost start creeping up so I stopped at 5.5. Can't remember where the 7/6.81 got put into the mix.

While I can't remember the specifics of Mod 6, I went with a 7 ohm resistor in mine which was mod "5.5". If you want to get really exact about it you could parallel a 250 ohm with the 7 ohm to get the 6.81 value. 6.81 will make the tweeter slightly hotter vs. 7 ohm. I probably wouldn't...

Do you have the app to help give finer control? My comments / experience: 1. Disable midrange compensation (app is required for this) 2. Only use Audyssey for EQ'ing the room , i.e. below 400hz (again, app required). I've found if what you are after is open / spacious sound, using Audyssey...

I have been building out my home theater over time and currently use definitive tech pro monitor 800's as my rear channel and front heights in a combined Atmos / Auro 3d setup. Why did I settle on the 800's? I got them for cheap and they have very flexible mounting capabilities which helps in...

If it was me, I'd use a logitech harmony universal remote (sadly discontinued) which could control them both via IR.

June 24th, 2023

This is correct, no glued components.

Seems that way. It does have me questioning if the circuit location or the component value which is correct on the packaging. I believe it's the inductance rating as just by eyeballing it, the .6 seems to have a few more windings than the other. Don't think there's a good way to measure these...

Not sure if anyone has built these recently, but I'm currently putting the crossovers together. One thing I'm noticing is in the stock circuit diagram Mudjack posted and various pictures in this thread, L2 = .6 and L3 = .5, however in the packaging of my kit it is flip flopped. L2 = .5 and L3...

That's what it seems and I "think" it (or others) might be good for my situation. I have a dual purpose listening area / theater and sit people 4 wide. Also my room is very very wide, with almost no sidewalls for initital reflections. My thought is a wider dispersion would help to provide...

I recently bought a pair of HDI-3800 which I like however, would also like to try something which is on the other end of the palette when it comes to character. The JBL's have a somewhat narrow dispersion and might be described as lively but tight? Anyway, kind of want to see how something on...

Put my Denon in "Pure" mode to turn off any EQ's did a few sweeps, observations: 1. The ALL SPL graphs between the UMIK1 and UMM6 are "close enough for government work" relatively 2. The waterfall graphs are still off, samples below with Mic and Receiver volume settings: UMIK1 -15 DB UMM6...

Fair, thought someone might raise that however, If you look at the Polk graph using the UMM6 it is at a similar DB level to the UMIK-1 measurements and it still has the odd upward slope above 1K-20K during the measurement window. To not unfairly throw the UMM6 under the bus I will do another...

And for more research, I expanded the parameters to see what was going on below 45 db and compared both mic's results. Looks like we can chalk this up to ambient noise and a perhaps a faulty mic / mic calibration? UMIK-1 UMM6

Looks like I may have answered the question. Just so happens I had a UMIK-1 on loan from a friend sitting around which I never used having received the UMM6 before I got around to playing with it. Below is the waterfall using the UMIK-1:

Went ahead and ran a sweep with an old Polk I had sitting around and got the same result. Strange.

OK, I went ahead and did a measurement with the stereo equipment shut off, below is the result. The few blobs around 20-30hz are my kids walking around upstairs. Does this tell us anything, i.e. the noise floor is well below the graph above?