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Operating a tweeter(s) that close to the resonant frequency is never a good idea. Tweeters have very little in the way of suspension and are produced in such a way that there is a lot of inconsistency around the resonant frequency from tweeter to tweeter. You cannot expect any two tweeters to...

Long gone, but I have a pair of 8341A's for sale if you're interested

Get speakers from Morrison Audio for a proper point source omnidirectional if that's your thing. MBL's drivers are spaced too far apart vertically and cause comb filtering in the vertical domain. A proper point source should be omnidirectional in every direction, not just horizontally.

If you are using subs you can probably get away with using a pair of F226Be's

The March Audio Sointuva has a 7.3 with EQ and no sub, and that's with proper measurements that aren't smoothed by the vendor. I think the Epos would lose some points if it were tested the same way. You can see the same thing with other speakers like those from Perlisten where the only...

Bump. Open to offers.

8331A or 8341A with subs

Lol okay I understand

They are made of aluminum. Are you interested in the speakers? They are still for sale.

Pretty much. I would never buy something from Dayton, a company that makes cheap drivers mostly for DIYers, over something from a highly competitive company that hires top engineers to make the drivers used in the multi-billion dollar pro audio industry. The level of engineering that goes into...

The RMS power handling on the Celestion is 1400 watts and the RMS power handling on the Dayton is 600 watts. The Celestion is also running circles around the Dayton in terms of BL and efficiency. I can only imagine the difference in Klippel results as well. There is no comparison to be made.

Have you used Hornresp? It is the software I prefer to use for modeling because it gives you an efficiency graph that tells you how much output you get per watt at every frequency. Compare this woofer to the Eminence LAB12, LAB12C, B&C 12FG100. For the money the Celestion looks hard to beat...

I don't want it to sound like I am trashing Dutch&Dutch. They are among the best speakers I have ever heard. It sounds like max SPL is an important consideration for OP, so I want to emphasize that they do not get very loud for their size. In terms of SPL they perform more like smaller speakers...

I never compared them side by side when I owned them so I don't think I can't say that much on that front. Both sounded basically perfect to me.

I never owned the 8361A

Also keep in mind that Purite above is a dealer for Dutch&Dutch and not Genelec. I owned them both for a long time and don't have a dog in this fight. They are both state of the art speaker designs. I would choose Dutch&Dutch over the Genelec 1237 unless those are going to be soffit mounted...

I used to own the Dutch&Dutch 8C and the strain in the 100-300Hz was slightly audible at higher listening levels. It wasn't huge but it was there. OP, also consider Genelec 8351B with subs. Realistically you wouldn't even need that much SPL at your listening distance, but it's good to have...

Using Klippel to get parameters will give you an exact number. It's usually pretty close to the area of a circle with radius going from the center of the driver to the center of the surround.

A loudspeaker in a room is a minimum phase system. Assuming the speaker behaves linearly, the time domain response you get in your room will be determined by frequency response. The way you get the best bass is by using multiple subwoofers and DSP to get a frequency response as flat as possible...

The bigger the better. 15" for a speaker. 21" for a sub. The less a driver has to move the lower distortion it will have. Larger drivers also tend to have lower group delay and a lower Fs in the appropriate enclosure. The idea that smaller drivers are faster is a myth that comes from the fact...