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I saw a similar post over on audioaficionado. I don’t know if this OP is the same person but that amp clearly broke because the OP was using a GIGANTIC aftermarket power cord which most likely acted as a lever. I have owned many McIntosh components over the years. My oldest McIntosh component...

If it's anything like the MC275 you can turn the lights off with a McIntosh Preamp. McIntosh uses stereo 1/8 cables for power control and one of the channels controls the lights and the other controls the system power. If you look at page 4 of the owners manual you can see the pinout. It doesn't...

Yeah. I love the Special 40s but they are way too similar to my Focus 160s to justify upgrading. I think I would have to go up to a Contour 20i to see any real improvement.

Yeah I get that. That's the reason I currently own a Dynaudio BM14SII. It's a pro audio sub which is pretty much identical to their previous top of the line audiophile/home theater sub the Sub 600 except much cheaper and with XLR inputs instead of RCA and it has a much cheaper black vinyl cabinet.

Right I forgot about that. I was talking about their best home audio sub the Sub 6.

No. No one suggested it. It's mostly just curiosity. Right now my main system is a pair of Dynaudio Focus 160s and a Dyanaudio BM14SII sub which easily goes down to 18hz so I already have a full range system. The reason I was thinking about this is because I was looking at Dynaudio's most...

Interesting.

Still pretty expensive. Also I already have amps so passive is better.

Does anyone know what the cheapest pair of full audible range 20hz - 20khz speakers there are? It seems like every pair of speakers I can find that can play the full 20hz - 20khz range cost tens of thousands of dollars. I would really like to get a pair of full range speakers that can play full...

I tried to register my NR1711 but only the Gold/Silver version was listed and I have a black one so I wasn't able to register mine either.

Seriously part of the reason for getting a receiver is to simplify my setup not complicate it with dongles or other jerry rigged solutions. The only acceptable fix is to replace the defective board/chip or the entire receiver anything less would be really lame.

They couldn't test it since up until the RTX 30 series cards there were no HDMI 2.1 sources.

I just tried to register my NR-1711 but the black option is missing from the product list. Only the silver-gold model is listed. I guess I can't register.

All the articles are saying it sounds like it's a hardware error that can't be fixed with a firmware update.

I figured as much. I only found one other older reference to the issue aside from the new thread on the official forums. Seeing how popular the various ADI-2s are and how anal audiophiles can be if it was a widespread issue I suspect it would have already been mentioned. I wonder if it has...

So I ended up returning my ADI-2 Pro FS R BE. I didn't notice it at first but after someone else over on the official RME forums noticed a bunch of dust under the acrylic screen cover I checked mine more closely and I saw that mine too was full of dust. The dealer I ordered from sent me a...

Now I feel like a real chump buying a NR-1711 although that article doesn't list that model as affected so maybe I'm good. Regardless only one 8k port is kinda pointless since I ordered a PS5, an XBox Series X and I plan on getting a 30 series Nvidia card as soon as I can find one.

I don't think you really need the Panlocs. McIntosh still sold cabinets into the 90s and the 90s amps didn't have Panlocs they just sit loose in the cabinets. Their modern amps are also designed to be custom installed and they have a set of extra low profile feet on the bottom specifically for...

So every HDMI 2.1 receiver is defective? Wonder if those of us who already bought one can get a refund or replacement under warranty.

Have you checked with audioclassics or mcintoshaudio? They tend to have a lot of rare parts.