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So I lied there is more pics.. went ahead and tried to print option 2.. it came out pretty good.. this is in abs but still a test print.. tried to do a adaptive layers but you can see the shifts as there is a slight color change. Also need to turn shop on for top laters to avoid a bit of scaring..

So I have decided to try an option two. This time it is not split instead I removed the bottom pegs and created inserts to allow for gluing in pegs afterwords.. this left me with just the lip around the hole where the tweeter mounted. Looking at the pics of the tweeter in the OP it seems that...

Okay, glad that worked for you.. but I have a different set of goals than you and have these concerns with printing this in its side. 1. Printing it on its side is going to require supports. 2. Printing perfect holes at an angle or from the Z axis is very difficult even for modern FDM printer...

The overhang with it upside down and keeping the print as clean as possible. By splitting it you get a much cleaner print. I am sure most are cleaning this up via post processing but I would rather it come out clean from the printer as I would like to print this in either carbon fiber petg or nylon.

okay threw the waveguide in cad today and took a good look at it.. Separated the top and bottom to allow for easy printing on a FDM printer and some heated inserts too allow for a secure fitment afterwords. Also replace the rear holes used for the mounting bracket with heated inserts for better...

Just ran across this thread today.. Anyways I was thinking that the waveguide design can probably be modified for better FDM printing by splitting up this print and using heated inserts.. This will create a seam though, but it might also make it do you can directly screw the driver into the wave...

Well there is correct and incorrect placement of speakers in a room.. Although regardless I am pretty sure I read, correct installation. Eitherway you should take your room and it’s acoustics into account.. I actually thought GoldenSound did a really good video on this on “The Headphone Show”...

This right here is great advice.. If you just push that 400hz up blindly it may lead to an unnatural chesty sound..

Here is an example of my RP-500M measurements (SR and SL speakers) using this method vs one I got from Erin's Audio Corner with which he used a Klippel

Well, if you go this far, might as well lift that speaker up on its side about 4 feet with a stand and take a gated measurement lol.. I followed this guide and at the center of the room got about 4.2 ms before reflections, which gave me a measured response down to around 250hz.. I also went...

I have a similar situation... AVR in the room beside my theater. Although in that rack I do have a small cluster of servers etc. I just took one of my mini-pc's and installed REW on it then simply RDP to do all my tests. As for my UMIK-1 I simply ran a long USB extension cable through the access...

Again time aligning using the impulse response is really easy now with REW and cross correlation.. Also volume matching is pretty easy.. Not that any of that matters because you can always just take one measurement from your MLP and exclude it to get all that done automatically in MultEQ-X

Well the impulse response is used to help time align for distances so yeah pretty sure that is what he was talking about.

What impulse response correction? The only thing they would do with the impulse response is align them which you can do in REW.. I mean I may be wrong but outside of volume matching and time aligning what else is Audyseey doing other than PEQ?

Yeah if you decide to go down that rabbit hole hit me up and I will see if I can help give any pointers...

Here is an example of my speaker before and after using a Gated measurement Here is an image of the impulse response and IR window, as you can see, I was able to get a decent measurement resolution down to about 260hz using this method.. edit: updated the image to show the DB range of the...

just a quick question though.. When you are doing these measurments you are sure you are using exclusive mode on both the mic and preamp right?

I dont think the room is causing that much rollofff. You can EQ higher freq's too, just not based on room measurments. I personally do EQ my speakers freq from ~250 and up but I do a gated measurement primary one diretly on axis pointed right at the tweeter... I then apply EQ for that gated...

Also, where have you placed the sub? is it up front near those speakers? Reason I ask is because it might help to try and invert the sub polarity and see if that helps too.

Ahh I see now.. thanks for the link.. Yeah I wold def raise that low pass filter up until maybe you close the gap a bit.. that app looks very limiting though. Can you change the high pass and low pass filter order? Can you set delays on the sub other than just invert it?