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actually when you tuck it right at the concrete wall and with some DSP to tame the boost at unwanted range it can go in room ~25hz

Actually the last part isn’t that odd, a larger woofer gets you deeper bass extension, but a waveguide, no matter how good it is can only do so much to match directivity, the larger the size difference between the tweeter and woofer the more directivity issue it will have in a 2way config. And...

also, again room treatment didn't eliminate reflections, it makes it more controlled, not anechoic chamber, so the predicted in room response is still relevant (or more relevant as it is the PIR of a somewhat treated room, not a room full of high reflection surfaces), so the vertical dispersion...

I think it's not that it's less important to sub, but how the signal pass through. The analogue 80x0 have no DSP latency, while the SAM 83x0/83x1 have the <5ms latency, so if you use say left channel 8030 and right channel 8330 as a pair you will have the <5ms latency on the right channel...

Well IMO they will make those who contact the reviewer to speak honestly with data stands out "look, this is the only speakers we have objective data on" so ppl buys more from those with available data from a thrid party, just like here in the holyland in far east, everything kept from any...

just read this, recently I am way too busy to read audio stuffs for fun. but after just seeing all those emails... even if that hum~ respectful designer, makes perfect speaker for $10 I will not pay a dime to him

Any link to patreon? I am not wealthy by any means but if it's for Erin's good in this silly company issue I will take my share on that

actually you've been missing a rather important point: The Ones are co-axial and the KH420 or the 3 way Genelec Mains arn't. although all these have basically perfect horizontal directivity, they have different beam width and except co-axial, having vertical directivity mismatch, so in a real...

Usually it's very difficult to place the front at the exact same height and distance to the wall and your MLP, and the main thing is the loudness is vastly different of default gain settings, using the same speaker and set the volume quite a bit different and the impression differs a lot...

level matching, distance from the front wall (the two have very different depth, so putting the back side the same distance from wall will make the driver to the wall having different distance), without doint these two using a measurement mic, subjective impression is just.. subjective, and also...

this is really crazily good, combined with it's look I would say that will be everything I would ever want

Far better than what I expected! Well done PS audio this time around

If I were not using my setup in a computer setup I may go that route also, use once and forget is nice, but life changes and genelec products usually last long, so say in some renovation or changing in room setup, one quick sweep and get the job done is really a nice to have when needed...

I would be curious on the design schematic recommendations but not from random soldering of random caps on it and not even have the proper gear to measure the results

Sorry but I literally don't get it why you would wanted so badly to add a not in the design caps in there... a PCB layout is there for potential usage of caps, but it also depends on a lot of other variables to make it really useful if not harmful for the end result, from what Amirm have...

it's highly likely that the value of the caps should be : NOTHING.:facepalm: But sure, it's your amp and you can do whatever you like, Just don't complain for reliability if anything goes wrong

seems like so but I do have faith the dCS ones should be fine, though in my own bar I would say this one pass also, one can hear transparency only so much, the rest are additional "value" on other stuffs.

man, no need to regret, at least it proves you have a lot more disposal income, ;)

It looks quite good in performance, alas I read the price after the conclusion.... in such price bracket I believe ppl are paying 95% for things other than sheer performance, it's objectively transparent enough, maybe it's look, brand reputation and reliability/customer service that could make...

I would not try to tinker with that anyway, if it ain't broken don't mess with it, sometimes the PCB are for various models and some combinations will better have it or not, and main thing is the amp is basically as transparent as it could get, there's no point to try improve it where in reality...